I've been under the hood quite a bit lately putting in CCV mod, gauge sensors, etc... One thing I've noticed is a LOT of buildup around the thermostat housing and the bolts on top appear to be pretty much rusted away. I MAY be able to clean it up and find enough to grab and remove the bolts. Maybe.

The reservoir has never been that low. I've added maybe 2 inches worth once for sure, maybe twice, since I've had the truck 65k ago. It's never ran hot or been more than a couple inches low. I'm assuming most of the buildup was there when I bought it, but honestly don't remember.

So, since I don't seem to be losing water, and the thermostat is working, is it reasonable to wait until the pump goes out, then replace the pump and housing and thermostat at the same time? Should I attempt to remove the housing bolts and change the housing and gasket/seal and new thermostat? Should I go ahead and replace everything now, even though the only sign of problems is the visible buildup?

I know there is info out there about going with a better t-stat housing from diesel site, but it seems that even that one has problems sealing. What are the recommendations for that?

Also, I know Clay has new OEM water pumps for $148 and OEM housings for about $25. Is it worth going OEM, or can I skimp a little and get aftermarket for $99 with a lifetime warranty at Oreilly's? The other local benefit that I like is that wherever I am, I can usually get a replacement same day and not have to worry about having one shipped.

Just wanted to get some thought and input.

Thanks

 

My waterpump is still original but I did put a new stat in when I switched over to elc. Used original housing as it was still in good shape. Soak those bolts good with pb b4 u try to get them out. I broke one of mine & had to drill out the stud.From what Ive read I would spend the extra 50 bucks & stay oem on the pump.

 

Jeff, As far as fixing it now, its probably better than waiting for it to go and possably leave you on the side of the road. However the housing bolts are likely to break if they appear orginal. If you do decide to do the job, get everything before hand so you don't have down time if its your DD. Get an OEM pump from Riffraff along with a stat and housing. Lifetime warranty is great, but how many times do you want to do this. Also consider coolant flush and change. If it comes apart ok, just hang on to the new pump for future use. If bolts break(housing) there are ways to deal with that. Use heat and BP first. If you replace the pump, be careful with the torque on the bolts, some only go into the aluminum front cover. Reassemble everything with anti seize. The billet housing is nice, I have one but its not necessary. I've done this job and its not bad at all even though I had housing bolts break. If it was me, I'd change it all.

 

I just changed all my hoses and went to Cat ELC when I had my oil cooler O-rings replaced. No issue so far with the dieslsite housing leaking. They include some specific procedures for the replacement as far as letting the RTV set up finger tight for couple of hours bfore finish tightening. I also let it sit for 24 hours before filling the ELC

 

Sorry for the slow response guys. Been super busy the past couple days.

I think I have decided to replace the pump at the same time, my dad's went out at about 180, and i'm not too far from that now with 156... I do want to flush the coolant system and add a good ELC, still researching that. I found one of stewart's posts here about Gooch's write up on coolant flush...

I found that link in a search, but could not find it again to save my life. Ended up finding it again through springerpop's maintenance page. It might be a good sticky in the tech folder if anyone has that capability. Anyway, it's on the list.

Thanks

 

Best thing to get it to seal is good gasket material. There is a product from NAPA called "The Good Stuff". Comes in a could gun tube. Best stuff out there. Well worth the money.

 

Here is what I was seeing as "buildup" from the T-stat housing.

 

Definatly replace the housing. Looks like that thing is probably rusted out pretty good.

 

I've tried to write this up 3 times and the computer keeps freezing. Maybe this time i'll catch a break

So, here is the buildup from the leak at the Tstat housing:



It looks like the the water leak has been mixing with the oil leak, creating a bad looking milky substance, but atleast it's outside of the engine, not inside





I know, I need to find that oil leak and take care of that. Need to get some degreaser too

Anyway, because I was bored, I decided to just replace the Tstat and housing. I can order and replace the pump after the holidays pass. Here is the pump with the housing and Tstat removed.


As you can see, the oil appears to be coming from around the HPOP from somewhere in the valley, my assumption is the HPOP, but the leak is so slow, I rarely have to add any between changes at 3K. If I stretch it to 5K, i'll add a little.


New housing, Tstat, and ruber gasket, carefully installed. I hate to use gasket maker unless I have to. If it leaks it's easy enough to take off and try again. I may even try using another size gasket/oring to see if it works.

Here is the new housing installed with everything back together



I was tempted to go with worm gear clamps on the hose, but the existing clamps were in very good shape, with a lot of clamping strength left, so I kept them on.

I'll probably replace the water pump and flush the coolant in the spring. I've got it on my list, along with finding that oil leak and throwing on some new IC boots...

 

FWIW, I replaced everything when I swapped to ELC with 145k on it... WP, billet housing, t-stat, all new hoses, and also added the filter kit from dieselsite.

I did have to come back a couple months later and seal a leak on the billet housing, added sealant.

 

That's really going to bother me. It's just one of those things that shouldn't be necessary. Not that I think the OEM was flawless, I know there are things that need to be replaced, fixed, and or upgraded (like the Oil tube to pan connection), but surely there can be a better way than "add a good glop of sealant and gasket maker"...

This is not a fix in my book, although it's what INTL reccomends for correcting the leak at the dipstick tube

Photo from Fat Diesel's write up on the INTL Repair Kit for Dipstick Tube to Oil Pan connecction.

I think if the Tstat housing begins leaking again, I may undertake finding a different gasket that seals it properly. Then I can post the fix to the brotherhood for all to know and I'll be famous, like Hutch. Well almost LOL