Brake line pluming and bleeding
#32
#33
Here is a break down from the Ford parts book for the '40-'47 axle. Yours will be the same. Number 1109 is a jack screw, there are two 7/16"-14 NC threaded holes in the axle flange between two of the nuts and 180 degrees apart. Once you remove all the nuts and lockwashers on the flange you can use those two threaded holes to move the axle out a little to remove the cone shaped rings on each stud. You can also, as df85732 suggested, strike the center of the axle flange with a 2-3lb hammer several times and bounce the cones out. I usually don't mess with the jack screws, the hammer method is a lot easier and faster. Some of the studs will probably come out with the nut. Once you have the axle out, it just pulls out once you remove the cones, you will see the bearing locknut #4252. It is an 8 sided nut about 3 1/4" across the flats. You will probably see on the corners where it has been loosened and retightened with a cold chisel or punch. You will have to remove it the same way unless you have the special socket to fit the nut. Under the nut is a keyed washer, #1124, that will need to be removed to access the inner nut #4255. After you remove these nuts and washer and back off the adjustment on the brakes, you can pull off the hub and drum. You need to place your hand over the axle flange end of the hub to catch the outer bearing so it doesn't fall out. And the hub and drum assembly is heavy, so be careful.
Mark
I also found the correct seal and put that in.
#35
My question, how do you bleed the booster? Seems a silly I know but if there is a trick it would be good to know.
#36
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