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Carburetor Help, please :)

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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 07:02 PM
  #16  
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It is a lot easier to change the metering rod than it is to change the jet. I have found metering rods for the yfa on ebay.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 07:27 PM
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It is a lot easier to change the metering rod than it is to change the jet. I have found metering rods for the yfa on ebay. 
Hi, whats a rod? is that a jet needle? I looked on ebay for yfa no rods found
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by logmode
No my fault, I am sorry for the bad explanation.
Well I used the battery ground instead of the signal return and now it works. Him, I don’t understand. Does that mean signal return is not the same as Ground, or is something wrong with signal return circuit?
Hmmm, I don't know without digging up a wiring diagram. I say if the directions work, follow them! What codes did you get?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:34 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by logmode
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It is a lot easier to change the metering rod than it is to change the jet. I have found metering rods for the yfa on ebay. 
Hi, whats a rod? is that a jet needle? I looked on ebay for yfa no rods found
The metering rod has varying width and it moves up and down through the jet controlling how much gas goes through the jet. The wider the rod,the less gas. I suppose some refer to the rods as needles because they do look somewhat like a big needle.

The YFA uses a rod that has a loop for connection on the one end. Don't confuse the yfa rods with the AFB rods that are L shaped.

Get yourself a carburetor kit, it has a real good diagram of all the parts and you'll need on anyway if you take the carb apart.

Also,,,,,,there are some great videos of the YFA and rebuilding it on youtube.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 09:57 PM
  #20  
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I have to put everything back the way it was. The (22) code is telling me the vac sensor is bad, ohmed it and it was open. Thx

Wish me luck finding a carb kit, thanks for the info.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 11:10 PM
  #21  
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Try Mike at, Carburetor Kits & Parts | High Quality . Mike has the kit and about anything else you need for a YFA. And,,,,great service.

Also Advance has them. Versions of the YF have been around for years. I wouldn't be surprised if they find one attached to a Dinosaur skeleton while digging around for old bones. There's lots of parts out there.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:10 PM
  #22  
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On the KOEO I still get code 22 (MAP/BP sensor out of self test range.).New map (duralast #su208), and old map (ford #E43F-9F479-BIA, #5-H-29-E).

I need help. I checked voltage at the three wire plug(map), not the center wire but the outer two wires, and found 5 volts dc. Where should I go from here?

Note: will not idle and black smoke from exhaust.

logmode
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 07:56 PM
  #23  
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Did you clear the computer by removing the negative cable from the battery after the repairs? If not, you'll still get the same code.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 08:32 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by billt28
Did you clear the computer by removing the negative cable from the battery after the repairs? If not, you'll still get the same code.
Only if the code is from CM would he get that code again; the KOEO procedure tests the basic integrity of the system at the time of the test only, it's the Continuous Memory portion (of the KOEO test) that could screw you up. This is why one needs to be clear on what they're testing and what the results are, there are 3 test procedures that produce codes but the first two are lumped together and retrieved together.

I have no idea how code readers may present this to users, I just count blinkenlights.


Originally Posted by logmode
On the KOEO I still get code 22 (MAP/BP sensor out of self test range.).
What are your KOER codes? And, in what order do they appear?

I uploaded some of the MAP/BPSensor stuff from the 1986 Ford Engine/Emissions Diagnostics Manual onto a photobucket album, you should check it out:

For logmode Photos by ctubutis | Photobucket

You will have to read from the last image to the first, that's the way they got organized on photobucket.


I noticed it was sending you to C1 at some point, I just put that stuff up for another guy here... You are interested in C0 thru C6 (again, right to left) here:

For Hutch Photos by ctubutis | Photobucket
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #25  
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Hi
I did not do the KOER due to that the KOEO had a code, also it will not idle, and I am not sure how to do it. I need more information on KOER. But since you asked about it, I tried. I started and cracked the gas a little. So I will tell you exactly what I saw. First 3 blinks, 25 seconds pause, 1 blink 4 second pause, fast code (flickers) 4 seconds 1 blink, from here on the pauses are the same 2 seconds- 2-1-3-2-2-4-2-5-8-7-2-7-3-1-2-1-2 -2-2-4-2-5-8-7-2-7-3 stop. That a lot, are they in twos or threes? I tried many more times while I was choking on the fumes, but the code changed. Hmmm?
Can you get me the ECC with inputs sensors and outputs loads or something like that in an electrical schematic?
Do I have to buy a break out box?
Thank you for your help.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #26  
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Breakout box, well, one thing at a time; that'll be in the future if needed.

You will have 2-digit codes and they'll begin after the flickering; the stuff before then is the engine number of cylinders identification, it may be prompting you to floor the accelerator and/or turn the steering wheel half a turn and/or step on the brake pedal; the flickering is a high-speed output to a code reader; the subsequent blinking is what you're interested in.

It's gonna gibe you 2-digit codes, and it's going to repeat them once.

So, say you have a condition that generates 3 codes - 32, 54 and 34. It'll give you:

32 54 24 three blinks, short pause, two blinks; longer pause; five blinks, short pause, four blinks; longer pause.... two blinks, short pause, four blinks
separator pause (longer than the between-digits pause)
32 54 24 again

These are good sites to read about how to do this:

Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing

The order in which they appear is also important, keep track.

The engine also needs to be warmed up to do this correctly.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:26 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by logmode
Can you get me the ECC with inputs sensors and outputs loads or something like that in an electrical schematic?
Looks like the best I can do is a general schematic with some explanatory stuff explaining pin connectors.

pin1 and pin3 here:
For logmode Photos by ctubutis | Photobucket
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 10:42 PM
  #28  
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Thank you for your help<O</O
Before I did test I replace the MAP and HEGO. <O</O
Motor is warm,<O</O

These are the code that I read during the KOER<O</O
22 MAP/BP sensor out of self test range.<O</O
42 No HEGO switching detected always rich (right side).<O</O
Next one down (58) does not have an X under KOER on the code list, but it came from the KOER test. Why would it do this<O</O
58 VAT indicated -40F / circuit open.<O</O
72 Insufficient MAF/MAP change during Dynamic Response Test (user error).<O</O
<O</O73 TPS senor did not exceed 25% rotation during Dynamic Response Test (user error).<O</O

If this was you were would you start and do what?<O</O
 
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #29  
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I fixed the link in Post #27; sorry, I was sending you to pictures for another guy.

The 72 & 73 mean you didn't step on the brake and turn the steering wheel half a turn and then floor the gas pedal when prompted. This prompting will be a flash, shortly after the flash in which it identifies the number of cylinders in the engine but before the hi-speed flickering where it thinks it's sending codes to a code reader.

There is definitely something up with your MAP sensor, I'll see what the book has for pinpoint tests. Do you have a multimeter (volt/ohm meter)? If not, go purchase one, you will need it.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #30  
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yes

Hi
Thank you so much.
I have a volt- ohm- current- and hand scope meter.
 
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