and if its been a couple weeks since Ive started it I have to cycle them 3-4 times. By cycling I mean I turn key on until wait till start light goes off then turn off key, turn it back on and wait until wait start light goes off again, then usually fires right up. Nights have been 35-40. What is this a symptom of?
Thanks for any help. Oh ya white smoke is contingent on how long its been since its been started. Less time between starts ie 1-2 nights, less white smoke. More time between starts for instance (2 weeks) it will smoke for 3-4 minutes after start and then stops until I get out on the road and bring the rpms up then white smokes between gear shifts for the first 3-4 minutes on the road then clears out.

 

How many miles?
Just so you know. Even though you see the Wait To Start light go out.......your glow plugs still stay energized for up to two minutes. No need to cycle the key.
The indication would be that the Glow Plug Relay needs to be looked at and/or replaced.
It could also mean that your Under Valve Cover Harness UVCH on both sides need to be looked at to verify your plastic plugs and clips are still plugged in. This is commonly referred to as the 50 cent mod. I can post how to do the 50 cent mod if you are interested.
Where in the country are you located in case someone might be near to give you a hand?
Do you get a Check Engine Light (CEL) at all?
Do you have any problems with power at all?
Dwayne

 

If the relay was bad it probably wouldn't start. Mine just did this and I spent two hours getting it started. Sounds more like glow plugs to me. Theres write ups on how to check them. If theres lots of miles, just replace. White smoke isn't a problem if it goes aways when warm. I plugged mine in for two nights till I could get it fixed. Started right up then.

 

OK. I was starting with the easy stuff but if you insist.
There is a 9 pin connector that goes into the valve cover gasket at the top center of each head.
The legend for the pins is as follows.
G=Glow plug
I=Fuel injector
C=common for fuel injectors

The pinout is as follows
G-G-I-I-C-I-I-G-G

Very carefully unplug the connector to each valve cover one at a time.
Turn your meter on to Ohms and place the red lead on one of the G pins and the black lead on the negative cable of your battery or the metal of the head.
Get the reading for each glow plug. Your resistance reading should be between 0.5 ohms and 1.0 ohms. I can not remember what the reading should be for each injector but you place the red lead on the I pin and the black lead on the C pin and the resistances should be about even for all 8 injectors between the two sides.
Place the meter on volts now. DC volts to be specific and set it to a range for reading up to 20 volts. The voltage will be near 12 volts or it should be.
Look inside your engine bay at your fuel bowl. Just behind and to the passenger side slightly will be a round brown relay.
The left, large, red terminal should read battery voltage(10.5-13.5 volts all the time if you place the red lead from your meter on this lead and the black lead on the ground of the battery.
The large lead on the right should read 0 volts to ground if the truck is not running and key is OFF.
The moment you turn the key ON but not running yet that terminal should read battery voltage. If you do not get battery voltage then check to see if you have 12 volts on one of the two smaller wires on that relay with the key placed in the on position with engine not running. It will only turn on for up to two minutes after the key is turned on. It is really based on wether the engine oil temperature is greater than 52 degrees celsius or not.
Please tell us that you have a meter, know how to use it and that I did not type all of this for nothing.
Dwayne

 

I would check voltage coming out of GPR. It is the quickest and easiest. It will most likely require a helper. Its a disc like piece inside and it spins and connects at a different place every time it is activated. If its burnt up in half the places, then it is only making contact say every 3rd activation for example which explains why cycling the key starts it. If it works every time, Dwayne laid out the next steps.

 

185,000 miles, no engine lights, no power problems whatsoever. Just bought it 3 months ago and have been through a few minor things with it.
Thanks again, Im sorry I dont have much to contribute yet Im mostly on the question asking at this point.

 

Fixitman,

I do have a meter and thank you for all the detailed info. I will check when I get a chance and report back, this thing called work and getting dark earlier kind of limits time. On the first procedure checking ohms I assume that this is with the key off.

 

just did the tests, glow plugs all hit .9-1.0 ohms
GPR was 12.0 volts on passenger side large red all the time and the right side was 0 with key OFF.
With Key on the right side went to battery voltage and also battery voltage on the smaller wires.
Did not check injector ohms yet, (could not get on them very good so gave up but will give another whirl if need be.
My oil temp was not 52 degrees celcius, this was a cold engine.

 

Let us know the numbers from the fuel injectors when you get some light and maybe the engine warm so your hands are kept warm.

 

Ok, thanks alot for the help.