i've had heavy under-powered vehicles with high-stall converters before, and have never had to rev the engine that high to get them to move. perhaps a VERY high-stall speed would slip that much, but i don't know anyone crazy enough to put a pure race converter in a truck (unless they are racing it).... A diesel converter would likely have a lower stall speed than a gas converter.

there's something else wrong.

the last guy i knew that had this problem and blamed the converter he just put in was putting in a new transmission about a week later.

smart money figures out what is going on before it gets more expensive to fix.

 

sorry for the delay...damn army expects me to work monday-friday lol...
Trek - It is an 02 but don't know the history of it. when I dropped the pan it was spotless, you could eat off it except the taste of ATF would turn my stomach.

Mark - This is the first 'later' model ford I have owned or worked on, my only other major experience was with my 77 f350 drw and 78 bronco both with the 351M/C-6 setup...the good old days. is this problem normal? I haven't seen much on the forums about this particular condition.

again not sure about the history but i'd like to meet the guy who puts a stall converter in a diesel thats rated at close to 2000 rpms. the way it does engage when it finally decides to though is definitely not like any high stall converter i have seen or driven. it is a very gradual take off like someone letting the clutch out way to slow on a standard tranny. also, i forgot to mention when I would shift out of park to either R or any forward gear the rpms would actually increase instead of the 'clunk' and dropping of rpms like every other auto tranny i have ever driven. waiting on the replacement solenoid to get shipped to me so i can put her back together in the meantime any and all advice is welcome. I'm stubborn and hard headed when I know something but automatics are a dark mysterious world to me and they have only gotten darker from the days of the ford c-6 or gm 350/400s lol

 

meborder - sorry didn't realize my thread has gone onto a second page. I am trying to keep it on the cheap side as far as repairs, sure I'd love to upgrade to a worked tranny but i really don't have a need for it. towing consists of my horses occasionally, couple thousand pounds of hay every few months and stuff like that. i don't see the need to beat on my vehicles as I have out grown that stage in life...mostly. as far as converters go I had a friend say that it might be the converter or the pump itself. from what i have read about the 4r100 converters if they go it can cause a mess inside the tranny and even though the previous owner just changed the fluid they would have had to pretty much tear the whole thing down and put it in the solvent tank overnight as i couldn't find a trace of any metal or debris anywhere in the valve bodies, pan, etc. and after i topped off the fluid it engaged and shifted like a new truck but that was only temporary. since i haven't broken down to buy a code reader yet is it worth it since i don't have any lights flashing at me? anyone know any good tranny shops in the fort hood texas area? waco, dallas, and austin are also close enough to travel too if they are worth it and affordable. ready to start banging my head against the tranny to see if that will fix it.

 

Upstate, be sure and blow through all the lines, be sure there isn't a blockage in the cooler. These things do take off a little "lazy", drive different from gas motors, and some of that is the fuel programming. I guess I am saying be sure there is an issue. Check with the Texas chapter, I think there is a couple of forum members near you, and do some driving of other trucks. Plus they might know a good shop near by.
Buying from an auction scares me, but that's me.

 

Trek-thanks for the leads. I did change the radiator out when I got the truck so who knows maybe something is lodged in there. When you say blow the lines out I'm guessing air compressor, what psi should I set my regulator at? first psd I've ever owned but have drove a few as well as light diesels and commercial (second job with the army is pretty much a driver so I have a lot of miles ondiesels lol), it just doesn't seem normal for it to not engage at all until such high RPMs or have a noticeable feel when shifted out of park. Again thanks to all the possible leads at least I'm able to check off things its not

 

I would use an air nozzle that lets you modulate the flow, ease into it so not to hurt something. Should get flow through it pretty low psi. once the fluid blows out. Unless.

 

Don't put more than 30 PSI through the cooler lines.

 

thanks, kids school project took priority so it won't be til tomorrow i try this, i'll start with 5-10 psi and see where that gets me

 

got everything put back together, new solenoid installed, check ***** installed in the proper locations, etc. transmission will not engage at all now at any rpm...up to 2500rpms anyway. didn't see a need to rev any higher then that. desperately seeking any more advice as my hopes were to take this truck on a 1500 mile road trip during leave around christmas to see my family i haven't seen in a few years.