3 connectors and 3 switches in the mail, $5 flat rate box to FL. Remember the 2 that have the lone big wire with the connector came of a 76/77 with a/c.

And the one with the same style connector and all small wires came off a non a/c truck, but I figured it at least has connector you need.

Sent 3 Just in case there is a reoccurring elec/heat issue, hope it is fixed with the one.

 

Man!! I owe you big time Rich! Now I even got spare parts. It was nice talking to you today and I will take care of everything we spoke about very soon.
As soon as I get the package i'll get it back together and post the results.
Once again thank you and everyone that posted offering help, ideas and opinions, this thread is proof what a great place this forum really is.

 

I got a package from 77&79F250 today, really saved me here! like Christmas morning, thanks again Rich.

 

Glad you found your parts.

 

I was going to say...if the 78-79 plug is easy to find...
And the 78-79 switch is easy to find (which it also is)

Why not just buy a new plug/switch (both from a 78-79) and use them?

IIRC, that's what I did in my truck!
-Brad

 

I have several reasons, all valid but my best one is that I didn't have to look any further than FTE and my mailbox!
Really I know I could have used almost any switch with the proper rating and I may have if I struck out a few times, I was just lucky that "77&79F250 saved the day.
How did yours work out? Do you have factory A/C? Thanks for the help.

 

I did have factory A/C - though the truck didn't have a compressor when I bought it, so I just pulled the rest of the A/C gear out when I did the heater core.

There were a lot of things stupid about the truck, but that goes without saying. We all know the horrors of previous owners.

-Brad

 

Here is a horror story pic and story.

PO installed front blocks to prevent the pumpkin from hitting the oil pan AGAIN. He also double stacked a set on the rear axle.

Well if he would of put the correct rear sump oil pan on in the first place, it never would of happened.

But he was to busy notching the passenger side frame cause he did not have the correct truck exhaust manifold.

So when I pull the moter to fix the oil pan, change the PU tube and replace the front cover with the correct one, I'll fix the frame notch job.

Then put in a new clutch pack since the motors out....and put on the L&L fenderwell exit headers when it goes back in.

And...and...and...ah the never ending story, new 4" lift spring are installed now, but I am putting a 6" when I have time.

HJ over, back to you Stinky 7-11

 

Well just to update everyone I was able to remove the wires and reinsert them into the replacement connector so no splicing needed. As soon as I switched to high the wire began to get hot and when I wiggled the lever on the switch the fan cut on and off! I replaced the switch with one of used switches and all is back to normal and running cool in every position. I will get a new switch just to be safe. Thanks