When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys. I have a 2000 7.3 i cant get the cruise light to come on when i press the on button. The ebrake switch works. Third brake light works. I checked the plug in front if the master cylinder and that looks good. any body have any other tips or ideas. Thanks
Unplug the brake master cylinder switch. Get someone to push the brake pedal while you measure continuity between the contacts on the switch. You should have continuity with the brake pushed or released, but not both. This would tell you if the switch is bad.
Be sure you check all the fuses. The fuse amperage and position list is in your owners manual.
Other than that, if your brake lights work properly, you have an issue with circuitry. I don't have the diagrams to help you there.
Do you also have an ABS light on? Most of the time the problems with CC vary. Check the connection tight at the rear differential for your VSS(Vehicle Speed Sensor). Make sure the connection is tight to your CC box at passenger side fender well.
Do you have a manual or automatic?
How many miles on your machine?
Have you ever had a problem with it before?
Thanks for the tips guys. No cruise control at all. 208,000 miles. No abs light( lights up for lamp check). Connector at the rear pumkin is tight. Speedo works like normal. No more rain than normal. Automatic tranny
Same problem here... except mine is a 2003, and manual trans. My owners manual doesn't show a fuse for CC (or maybe im just illiterate), anyone know which one it is? Also, my high idle hasn't been working. My cruise control stopped working just before the weather got cold, so I can only assume they stopped at the same time, but it obviously doesn't kick on high idle when it's warm. I'm thinking it's a fuse since both stopped, or maybe my clutch/brake switch. But...if it were my clutch switch, wouldn't it be able to start without me pushing in the clutch? And if it were my brake switch, wouldn't my brake lights not be working?
Sorry to somewhat highjack this thread, but maybe we can both get some help from it.
Same problem here... except mine is a 2003, and manual trans. My owners manual doesn't show a fuse for CC (or maybe im just illiterate), anyone know which one it is? Also, my high idle hasn't been working. My cruise control stopped working just before the weather got cold, so I can only assume they stopped at the same time, but it obviously doesn't kick on high idle when it's warm. I'm thinking it's a fuse since both stopped, or maybe my clutch/brake switch. But...if it were my clutch switch, wouldn't it be able to start without me pushing in the clutch? And if it were my brake switch, wouldn't my brake lights not be working?
Sorry to somewhat highjack this thread, but maybe we can both get some help from it.
Thanks guys!
There is a brake pressure switch that will cause these symptoms, and Ford had a recall for it in late 99 on rangers and other vehicles. I would think this is your problems.
The switch is attached to the brake master cylinder on a 99 ranger, and is probably still attached to the brake master cylinder on newer trucks. Unplug it to see if it changes your symptoms.
Same problem here... except mine is a 2003, and manual trans. My owners manual doesn't show a fuse for CC (or maybe im just illiterate), anyone know which one it is? Also, my high idle hasn't been working. My cruise control stopped working just before the weather got cold, so I can only assume they stopped at the same time, but it obviously doesn't kick on high idle when it's warm. I'm thinking it's a fuse since both stopped, or maybe my clutch/brake switch. But...if it were my clutch switch, wouldn't it be able to start without me pushing in the clutch? And if it were my brake switch, wouldn't my brake lights not be working?
Sorry to somewhat highjack this thread, but maybe we can both get some help from it.
Thanks guys!
There are 2 switches inside the CPP(Clutch Pedal Position) switch, what typically happens is the springs inside the switch break and do not allow for the PCM to know the clutch is out. The switches aren't very expensive from the parts store around $25 and is relatively easy to swap out.
The clutch pedal position switch will open a normally closed contact with the slightest bit of pressure on the clutch pedal. Then there is a normally open contact that closes when the pedal is pushed all the way in. The one that closes all the way when pushed in is what allows you to energize your starter solenoid on the passenger side fenderwell. The one that opens when the clutch is first pushed in is what cancels your CC. I am just breaking down what Al said above.
I replaced my switch when I did my permanent clutch pedal repair that I purchased from ebay.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.