This question is probably posted somewhere on here by someone, but just too tired to look for it.

Rainy days and engine occasionally missing. Most likely I got a coil pack starting to go. After engine dries out and on non-rainy days engine runs fine.

My question is will a faulty coil pack show up when the codes are pulled even if the CEL is not lit?

Don't want to let this go too far and start dumping raw fuel in the converter.

Like I said engine runs fine with no misses on dry days. Just wondering if it could be my ignition wires also. Not sure if they were replaced or not when I had tuned up at 100K. Ford has been known for this in the past, I had a Ford Ranger that did the same thing, but it was the ignition wires, before coil packs. I should of bought stock in Wire Dryer, that's how much of this stuff I used to buy and carry with me until I got wires changed, again, only when it rained.

 

Not sure if all DTCs that set a CEL/SEL work this way but it used to be that it would take three "pending" codes to set the CEL/SEL. So it might set a "pending" code and if you catch it within that time frame.

 

Another possibility would be frayed or worn wiring to any of the coils or sensors that feed into the CPU. Slightly damaged wiring is OK when dry but on a moist or wet day will contribute to poor drivibility. I've recently had three wiring repairs, including damage to coils, caused by mice feeding in the engine compartment. Total cost in excess of $800!

 

Mine had a pending code when mine was going.CEL light wasn't on.

 

Ok thanks for all the responses. I wasn't sure if a code would show up or not. My guy says there are other ways to check a bad coil pack also. Very intermittent, but know from experience it only gets worse and then CEL does come on.

 

my code reader said it was a pending code hard to diagnose because it idled fine and drove while it had a shudder i guess now it was a miss when you drove a study speed

 

Today we had heavy rain here. Thursday the coil pack will be changed.

Really, really bad miss until engine warmed up and dried things out a bit. CEL did come on this time first flashing and now staying on steady.

Exact same symptoms when another coil pack went. Luckily next five or so days will be dry and sunny.

 

have your code read if its a front pack it would be super easy to change out I think all you need is a 8mm socket

 

Well had two days of really dry weather. Today the third day, late in the afternoon after starting vehicle the CEL went off and has stayed off. Engine miss is hardly noticeable if at all.

I was always under the impression that once the CEL comes on, it has to be reset thru the PCM. Guess I presumed wrong. Seems if the engine fixes itself (not saying it did here) the CEL will go out.

Undoubtedly there must be a crack in one of the coil packs and when it is very damp or raining, moisture causes the pack to short and cause a misfire, because water or moisture conducts electricity and is sending the signal for the plug to fire who knows where, when dry, there is no shorting and the plug gets the correct signal and fires when it's suppose to.

 

It isn't if the engine fixes it but that it doesn't see the code after a predetermined time, drive cycle, etc., it clears the code.

 

All fixed. 4 codes came up. 3 codes for 3 different coil packs. 1 code for unable to start. I did have about 2 or stalls at start-up in the past month. Stalls were related to the bad coil backs.

2 packs were in the rear of the engine and 1 in the front. So the intake manifold had to be removed to gain access to the back packs.

I now have 5 new packs, previously had one changed in 2009 and one in 2010. So only 1 original pack remains. He put all the new packs in the rear of the engine and moved the original pack and the ones previously changed to the front. If the orginal remaining pack goes, it will be an easy change. Should of had him just change that pack while he was at it really.

Engine runs like a champ now, got better pickup. He says not unusual for packs to go at 154K, most go sooner.

Can drive the Escape in the rain now.

 

We just changed 3 of them at 248k - first time to have to do it. I only had one causing a miss but since I was in there I did all 3 in the rear. Got prices at 2 shops to do the 3 packs alternator and belts. 1st shop was $1500ish and the other (the one we have been going to for about 15 years) wast at $1000. I did all of it for about $700.

The front take about 5 mins each to change and if you have an 8mm socket you shouldn't need to take it back to somebody to do it.

 

This is what my guy did, changed 3 coil packs, installed 6 new spark plugs, removed intake manifold to get access to rear packs and plugs, ran the codes. He charged me for $125 for each coil pack and $6 each for plugs. All OEM parts from Ford (not sure if that's good or bad). He charged me $625 total, parts and labor. I trust this guy and never got burnt. May be a little high, but I know its done right. Yes, the last original pack is in front and easy to get at. If it goes, I should be able to handle it myself.

 

If possible, try to install the new coil pack there at the shop. I ended up getting three bad coil packs new from the factory, on the 4th one it ended up good. Turns out someone was stealing the good packs swapping out the bad ones, no idea, but just to save yourself a few trips back and forth, if it is a pack up front, swap it out, takes only 5 minutes.