Next AOD rebuild question-problem
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
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From: Pekin, IL
Next AOD rebuild question-problem
Ok..I started with a 1991 AOD.
I replaced the direct drum(burnt), cast iron for stamped steel.
I also replaced the 8 speedo tooth output shaft for the 7 speedo tooth output shaft, both 4 hole lube. 7 tooth to run 3:73 rear end.
those 2 items are the only hard part changes. The used stamped steel direct drum came with the piston and steels only. no bearings.
So I use my bearings from my AOD. I put this all together over the course of the last month. I get it all in, setup my depth gauge for the intermediate plates and they are within .002-.003 of what they should be. pretty happy about that!
So then check the depth to the thrust face...I am .070" too tall/ thick...
Are there different bearings for the stamped steel direct drum? vs the bearings I have from the cast iron direct drum?
Too verify my depth check, I put the pump/stator assembly in with no thrust washer and it rests on the thrust face of the drum and I can rock it back and forth at the machined surface where it bolt down.
I replaced the direct drum(burnt), cast iron for stamped steel.
I also replaced the 8 speedo tooth output shaft for the 7 speedo tooth output shaft, both 4 hole lube. 7 tooth to run 3:73 rear end.
those 2 items are the only hard part changes. The used stamped steel direct drum came with the piston and steels only. no bearings.
So I use my bearings from my AOD. I put this all together over the course of the last month. I get it all in, setup my depth gauge for the intermediate plates and they are within .002-.003 of what they should be. pretty happy about that!
So then check the depth to the thrust face...I am .070" too tall/ thick...
Are there different bearings for the stamped steel direct drum? vs the bearings I have from the cast iron direct drum?
Too verify my depth check, I put the pump/stator assembly in with no thrust washer and it rests on the thrust face of the drum and I can rock it back and forth at the machined surface where it bolt down.
Transmission Rebuilder
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,569
Likes: 62
From: North Georgia
The drum behind the pump that the band rides on is the reverse drum, the direct drum is the small one in the bottom of the case. Did you replace the one behind the pump or the one in the bottom of the case?
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 634
Likes: 21
From: Indiana
Ok..I started with a 1991 AOD.
I replaced the direct drum(burnt), cast iron for stamped steel.
I also replaced the 8 speedo tooth output shaft for the 7 speedo tooth output shaft, both 4 hole lube. 7 tooth to run 3:73 rear end.
those 2 items are the only hard part changes. The used stamped steel direct drum came with the piston and steels only. no bearings.
So I use my bearings from my AOD. I put this all together over the course of the last month. I get it all in, setup my depth gauge for the intermediate plates and they are within .002-.003 of what they should be. pretty happy about that!
So then check the depth to the thrust face...I am .070" too tall/ thick...
Are there different bearings for the stamped steel direct drum? vs the bearings I have from the cast iron direct drum?
Too verify my depth check, I put the pump/stator assembly in with no thrust washer and it rests on the thrust face of the drum and I can rock it back and forth at the machined surface where it bolt down.
I replaced the direct drum(burnt), cast iron for stamped steel.
I also replaced the 8 speedo tooth output shaft for the 7 speedo tooth output shaft, both 4 hole lube. 7 tooth to run 3:73 rear end.
those 2 items are the only hard part changes. The used stamped steel direct drum came with the piston and steels only. no bearings.
So I use my bearings from my AOD. I put this all together over the course of the last month. I get it all in, setup my depth gauge for the intermediate plates and they are within .002-.003 of what they should be. pretty happy about that!
So then check the depth to the thrust face...I am .070" too tall/ thick...
Are there different bearings for the stamped steel direct drum? vs the bearings I have from the cast iron direct drum?
Too verify my depth check, I put the pump/stator assembly in with no thrust washer and it rests on the thrust face of the drum and I can rock it back and forth at the machined surface where it bolt down.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
The one in the bottom of the case or the rear of the case. Thanks!
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
sounds like something isnt fully seated. Make sure the clutch hub is fully seated in the direct clutch pack and the Forward clutch pack. Also, when you mate the reverse clutch pack onto the forward clutch pack, make sure they full mesh. the same goes for installing the reverse/forward clutch assembly onto the Drive shell and making sure that assembly fully seats into the center support and the gears mesh with the sun gear. the repair manual recommends turning the output shaft back and forth until it "clunks" into place.
One thing...I replaced the bushings in the sun shell. The sun gear goes into those a little snug, but I can turn it by hand all the way in and bottoms out, no problem. I don't really like the snug fit, but maybe thats normal with new bushings. it's the first time I have ever replaced them in any transmission..
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
LOL I was thinking on those lines myself!
Actually I was wondering about using a plastic deadblow hammer and whack the sungear end while it is in the sunshell, in case I have a bushing that is slightly misaligned. just holding it in one hand and hammer in the other hand. try to shock it, if u know what I mean?
Actually I was wondering about using a plastic deadblow hammer and whack the sungear end while it is in the sunshell, in case I have a bushing that is slightly misaligned. just holding it in one hand and hammer in the other hand. try to shock it, if u know what I mean?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Actually I was wondering about using a plastic deadblow hammer and whack the sungear end while it is in the sunshell, in case I have a bushing that is slightly misaligned. just holding it in one hand and hammer in the other hand. try to shock it, if u know what I mean?
I did the deadblow hammer whack like mentioned above. It worked like a charm.
It loosened it up. I do the same thing with u-joint replacement. After installing, they can be stiff...lightly whack the driveshaft yoke area with a hammer and it loosens up...takes away the stress or bind, if you know what i mean.
So I put it all back in except for the intermediate clutch pack and now its right where it should be! wwhew...Had me nervous...I noticed the sun gear problem when I took it apart last night. Pretty sure that was the problem.
Well maybe tomorrow I will have the internal stuff done and be able to get into the valve body.
Thank you Guys! I will keep you posted.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 634
Likes: 21
From: Indiana
Ok, I looked everything over and seems right.
I did the deadblow hammer whack like mentioned above. It worked like a charm.
It loosened it up. I do the same thing with u-joint replacement. After installing, they can be stiff...lightly whack the driveshaft yoke area with a hammer and it loosens up...takes away the stress or bind, if you know what i mean.
So I put it all back in except for the intermediate clutch pack and now its right where it should be! wwhew...Had me nervous...I noticed the sun gear problem when I took it apart last night. Pretty sure that was the problem.
Well maybe tomorrow I will have the internal stuff done and be able to get into the valve body.
Thank you Guys! I will keep you posted.
I did the deadblow hammer whack like mentioned above. It worked like a charm.
It loosened it up. I do the same thing with u-joint replacement. After installing, they can be stiff...lightly whack the driveshaft yoke area with a hammer and it loosens up...takes away the stress or bind, if you know what i mean.
So I put it all back in except for the intermediate clutch pack and now its right where it should be! wwhew...Had me nervous...I noticed the sun gear problem when I took it apart last night. Pretty sure that was the problem.
Well maybe tomorrow I will have the internal stuff done and be able to get into the valve body.
Thank you Guys! I will keep you posted.
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