1986 FORD RANGER 2.3 EFI / 5-Speed / 4 banger / SOHC / 140 CID
Present mileage - 155,801.8

I know it all depends on usage of a vehicle, but how often should I get my Fuel injectors professionally cleaned? I have a 1986 (26 yr) Ranger and it's having issues with either the Injectors being clogged, fuel pump, or ???


When shops are charging anywhere between $100.00 - $150.00 PER HOUR shop time to try to diagnose problems, I'd like to know if this Ranger has any other Diagnostic ports, or they came much later, just so I know what to expect. I'm not sure If have a fuel or electrical problem.

It might be the starter, or even maybe clogged fuel injectors. ( I used Lucas Super clean injector additive to my gas back in February, but a few people told me NEVER to use this stuff in a 26 year old car, because it takes all the bad gunk in the tank and does a number in the engine, and clogs the injectors. Is this true?

All I know is when I try to crank it, it does not keep running, no matter if I gas the pedal or not. Last week at least, when I cranked it over a few times, then it would start and keep an idle, now it does not...it only cranks.
I will try to ask a shop to test the starter, before I spend any more money on this truck, which has seen better days.

I recently replaced the in-line fuel filter, and the fuel pressure regulator, cap /rotor, new realys for both fuel pump and ECC computer, battery.

Thanks for any help!

 

How often should I get my Fuel injectors professionally cleaned?

Never.....per oem maintenance directives, they are essentially considered a non-servicable item. Now with that said, marvel mystery oil is a very good product to help clean & lubricate the injectors.....and BG products does make an excellent EFI cleaning system (multi-part).

 

What is your fuel pressure/volume?

 

Thanks!

I'll have to go rent a pressure regulator tester first. Is it 35 or 40 psi's? What am I testing for...a bad fuel pump, or clogged injectors? I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator about two months ago. I also replaced the IN-LINE fuel filter, which had metal shaving from the pump, but after 26 years, that's normal, I've been told. I should have that replaced while it was up on the lift.

But meanwhile....

The TFI I had tested at Autozone was a MOTORCRAFT part and it tested BAD. I also had two extras I had laying around, and one of those tested GOOD. So I bought the TFI Duralast Module for $46.00.

I got it home, installed it (using the supplies dielectric grease) and I'm back to the cranking a few times, then it starts and maintains an idle for a few minutes, then stalls out. Sometimes it wants to idle, most times it only cranks.

I located my EEC-IV on the inside cab, passengers side kick wall, behind that plastic cover, (one Phillips screw, and another on the metal floor door trim) that loosens up this cover.

I DO appreciate the feedback here and those who suggest me testing codes or checking fuel pressure, but I have no tools like that, so I'm trying (wasting my time) to figure out what's causing this. I am tempted to save time, and have it towed to a repair shop that can do diagnostics on this...(cheaper than Fords prices) Being disabled with Cancer, I just needed to try to save money that I don't really have.

I smell gas when I crank, so fuel must be getting to the injectors. Spark is there, Distributor coil also tested GOOD.

When this was idling that one time, I removed the vac line from the VAC Hose tree, (that connects from the Fuel pressure regulator) and there was a lot of suction over the metal tube on the tree.

EEC-IV, I was told, don't go out as much as the TFI (Ignition control Module )

I also replaced my Pickup coil some years ago.

So does everyone still think this may be a fuel pump problem? or an electrical?

 

It is either the fuel pump or the pick-up coil inside the distributor. When the pick-up coil fails, it does not send a signal to the TFI which tells the ECM to keep the fuel pump running.
The fuel pump relay is another possibility.
Check for fuel pressure (32-40psi) and spark when cranking.
There is a EEC-IV test port under the hood that you can retrieve codes from.

 

Thanks Jim,
Well I recently replaced the two relays (fuel pump and eec, or ecc, or whatever it is) located passenger's side fender wall, they were all corroded. one was attatched to a metal clip on the frame and the other just lying loose. One brown and one green (there is one more relay for the Blower fan)

I replaced with new four-wire connectors (Tops and bottoms) that come off the wire harness. Silly me, I did not solder them, only wrapped them tight with electrical tape. I also replaced my Pickuip coil maybe about twn tears ago, and recently replaced my inline fuel filter.

This is so crazy! I guess for a 26 year old truck, no doubt I still need to check other things, like a failing fuel pump, (when recently changed the filter, there were metal shaving in there, indications it's breaking down, electrical, or emissions, etc., but all this time I was chasing something that was probably causing these problems....... on my steering column.

About three years ago or so, I replaced my key cylinder from FORD, and it was really easy to do, because (as I try to remember) the original switch had a tiny pin hole that you poke a wire in, then it releases. (...or I'm dreamin')The replacement I bought does not look like it has anything to push in to release, so if it is a faulty the switch, then I'll need to find out how to replace it.

But after all this, and wondering what is causing the lack of starting, only cranking, I then realized by fudging around with the key cylinder switch, The engine would start, then shut off the more Ai played with it. So by removing column cover, spraying CO2 air to clean dust, replacing with two tight zip ties, and two scews, it now starts right up and idles. No more play in the key cylinder.......WHAT? REALLY?

It started right up! I shut down and restarted several times without it stalling. UNBELIEVABLE! I would have NEVER thought it could have been my key switch. Good thing I waited and did not have my truck towed to the repair shop...heaven knows what they would have charged me for things I probably never needed. (Like so many times before)

Today I drove it down the street and all around and it did not once stall, also kept a steady idle.

So I certainly hope all the other components are good. I turn the key and hear the pump priming so that's still ok. (fingers crossed) Thanks for all the help.

I also replaced my TURN SIGNAL SWITCH last year, (left side with Hazard light, turn signal, and bright lights) so I hoped this has nothing to do with the key cylinder on the other side..... THANKS!

 

I forgot about that. I had a few cars do that. Those were never taken in for the recall on the ignition switch and the bodies came loose causing a bad connection.
Glad you got it figured out.

 

Oh and for your question about cleaning the injectors, I ran the original injectors in my 88 5.0 Mustang until this summer when I upgraded to 24# injectors. Never had them serviced and never a problem. Not even after letting it sit for about 2 years. 167K miles on those injectors.