My check engine light came on, Ran the codes and found that I have 2 injectors low.

What is the most common cause for this? a fouled injector or is it shot?

The truck has 69,000 miles on it, will the other 6 injectors soon have the same fate?

 

Have you ever tested the FICM voltage?

Run through this and verify 45V or higher during KOEO, cranking, and running before you start chasing down individual injectors.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

If the FICM tests out as good, then you can check the injector harness for continuity before you dig in any deeper. How old are your batteries and is it the original alternator? The injectors take a lot of power to run, so they're good at finding the weakest electrical link in your truck for you. A lot of injector codes are caused by electrical issues rather than the injectors themselves, but if the problem goes on long enough the injectors WILL die and need to be replaced.

 

Batteries are 3 years old. Alternator replace under Warranty at 20K miles.

Cold start is fine. 0261 and 0264 were the only codes thrown.

Thanks for the link. Looks like there is some sleuthing to do.

 

I would get the batteries load tested and the alternator should
get a test also. 3 years on the batteries seems to be the average.
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Good place for the 6.0L questions

Sean

 

I had that same code plus more,,,FICM took a Dump,,,Test it,,,I had Ed at FICMrepair.com repair mine, $325 for the premium service repair w/2 yr warranty !!

 

I'm moving this one to the 6.0L PSD forum, as you will likely get a better response to your issue.

 

Thanks for fixing the location.

Thanks for the tips too. M350, did you bump up the voltage when you repaired your FICM? Did they need your core? How bad is the damage for getting a new FoMoCo FICM?

Lastly, in texastech diesel's link, I was not able to pull up the picture of which Screw to test on the FICM. There was some confusion as to right or left, anyone have that picture.

 

Ed will fix your if it can be. So you have to send it in to him.
Ford will sell you one and then have to program it so you
will have 2 costs with them The FICM and the labor to program.
I bet someone here knows what the cost would be.
I would just send in to FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair They
have a very good reputation with everyone here.

Sean

 

Looks like they have an exchange program to minimize down time which is why I was wondering.

Now to test voltage if I can make sure I am not going to burn my unit up touching the wrong screw.

 

I just read thru their fAQ page, as mentioned earlier, I am really suspecting I need to get new batteries first and formost. I Have used Motorcraft and Excide, both about 3 year lifespans, anyone have a suggestion here?

I have heard on a local radio ad that all lead acid batteries sold in the country are made in one of 2 locations so brand may not be critical??

 

You will get a lot of answers on that. You may want to just get a
good set for the best price you can find. I just got my truck this
last March and so have not had to deal with the batteries other
than having a bad cable replaced as part of the sale. I am coming
to the opinion that if you have to replace them about every 3 years
then get a good brand on sale and save the $$ for other things like
a good alternator, FICM and a gauge set of some type. Scanguage II
is a good place to start. You can use it to check the voltage of the
batters and FICM and only about $160.00

Sean

 

So I have 23 Days till I hit the 3 Year Mark on some DuraLast 850CCA from AutoZone

they have a 8 year warrenty

they have a 12.2volt standing voltage each morning and a DC Power 190amp alt pumping them for the last 1.5years

Only started checking the standing volts last couple weaks

Seems like the sound of crank changed as it started to get cooler at Night but it might be my imagination too IDK

12.4-12.6volts Float charge would be better IDK


Just throwing it out there my experiance with these batts

 

Ordered the Scanguage II tonite. Will get on the Battery issue. I drove home about 30 miles after the check engine light came on, any chance I would do damage with those codes in that mileage?

 

I had the dealer put in new fuel filters about 4 weeks ago. As I was looking at the fuel pressure regulator I noticed how dirty it was. After wiping it down and watching while at Idle, I could see fuel coming out of the lid. The lid was cracked.

After replacing the lid with new and replacing the 3.5 year old batteries with new 850CCA Motorcrafts, the codes are cleared.

My Scanguage II arrived today. I will check the voltage of the FICM. Even if it checks out OK, An Ed's upgrade is going to happen. Looking into a better alternator as well.

Thank you for the tips guys.

 

Speak to Ed about the alternator if you are looking into getting a new one.
He can get you a discount on DC Power Engineering ones.