hi guys i have a 2007 ford truck and it has an extended cranking problem like 30 seconds in the cold but once it warms up it restarts right away wondering where the low oil pressure relief is located and if anyone has any pictures of the location to would be great thank you so much

 

Yes its in the front cover you can check it out and clean it as sometimes Varnish builds up on it. I DO NOT Think its your problem though.

Long Crank COLD usually is a Dummey Plug or Standpipe Leak that lets the High Press Oil Rail Bleed off as the truck Cools and Sits

Maybe the wrong oil filter and or Oil Filter Cap can cause this to. Do you have an OEM Oil Filter and CAP Must be 110% shure link below but it can bleed off oil press as it sits

BOTH STYLE OIL FILTER CAPS YOU WANT THE ONE ON THE LEFT SIDE ITS OEM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11094677

Click here^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


And here is a Pic of the LPO regulator

Its the Middle picture labeled 40 below






But Personaly I think you long crank Cold is a problem with the HPO side of things normaly

So that usually is Standpipes and or Dummey plugs in the Oil Rails under the Valve covers Id say about 90% of the Time with your starting issue

Try parking the truck Nose Up one Day and then Nose down the Next see if makes a Diffrence


But basicaly being a 07 year you need to Update the Standpipes and Dummey Plugs and Also the SCT Fitting at the HPO Pump All these parts are problematic and there are updated parts advalible now

Do the Standpipes and Dummey Plugs at the SAME TIME they are Both at the Oil Rail Under the Valve covers so same labor to get to each one

the STC fitting is at the HPO Pump so its kinda on its own you could do it later if you wanted to

But all these parts will fail at some point seems like 60-100K milage range on the average But once the Guys replace these they have a Solid HPO System and no more worries about it

 

Benny - I am not aware of the late model HPOP's bleeding down like the earlier ones.

I am wondering more about an injector. Even the FICM can sometimes act up cold and not warm.

IIRC Ed at FICM repair.com has even mentioned that heating up the FICM w/ a heat gun or hair dryer and then trying the "cold" start sometimes works.

Regardless, it is more and more evident that owners need a scantool to troubleshoot their vehicles.

A scangaugeII can be had for $135. The DashBoss is pretty nice too I hear - if you have the electronics for it.

OP - The front cover component is not just a pressure relief, but it is primarily a pressure regulator. The relief valves are for bypassing the the oil cooler and the oil filter. They are rarely an issue. Is your oil pressure gauge not showing any pressure on the long cranks?

 

Did I say That ???? Didnt mean it that way if I did

I didnt mean the HPO Pump would Bleed Down them 05+ HPOP are the GOOD Ones I dont think thats the Problem IMO Sorrey if I confussed Him

I ment the Standpipes or Dummey plugs may cause it to bleed down

GREAT Call on the Injectors to that top O-Ring could also cause it to Bleed Off

 

It is just my reading skills after my afternoon nap - lol (sorry)

 

Oh thats Cool no Biggie

I didnt know if I worded it confussing or what I know things can get lost in translation

Kinda like when folks say there truck wont crank that might mean 1 of 2 things

 

My FICM was starting at 39v when cold then rise to 48v after 10 seconds or so. This is when I first noticed the issue. The rest of the day, after engine being warmed up, it always read above 45v, but mainly was closer to 48v.

By the time I was able to send it to ED, it was starting as low as 30v then rising to 48v.

I always waited to start the motor until the reading was at 47.5-48v. So, would I have had the "rough" running when cold for the first few minutes if I did start it at 30v? I believe so.

As for the air dryer use to warm the FICM? I think so. All last winter my truck was plugged in, didn't notice the FICM volt drop until I quit plugging it in. And, why did it stay near 48v the rest of the day?

Could you do the opposite? Stick a block of something frozen on the FICM housing and create a cold start? A can of compressed air turned upside down and give it a good chill!? That would be interesting for sure.

Since seeing what mine did, I will always say "Check FICM when cold"

 

This Is GREAT ADVICE^^^ a ScanTool is a Must with these 6.0L trucks everything is electronicaly controled

You can Check things with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) too although its harder somethings will require 2 people to check

Use the DVM to check the FICM and ICP sensor


Lots are happey with the ScanGaugeII

 

Love the Dash Boss for iPhone/etc. The latest DashBoss App version netted all the FICM voltages/ synch, fan parameters, EBP PID's and more.

Here is my current set-up of 24 gauges:









Josh

 

Another option if you don't have an iPhone but have an Android based phone is the Torque app. Might not be as good as scangauge but does a lot. Helped me with diagnosing my HPOP.