460 4WD with Ford 10.25 rear. (for the life of me I can't find where to set my sig, or is it not allowed yet because of low post count?)

I called the local radiator shop about boiling out my rear tank and it's about $150 if I want to get it lined at the same time, a bit over $100 I think just to get it cleaned. If I find a used Bronco tank I'd probably want to get it cleaned also, so I'm thinking it's actually cheaper in the long run to get a Spectra F26D. Advance has them for $199 with free shipping -15% + $50 gift card and $25 off coupon (both of which I can use as I need a new selector valve) so a final cost of <$100 to my door.
I've seen a number of references to the F26D tank but not any followup on people's opinions on the quality/construction.
So, like/dislike?

 

I have used the parts stores tanks with good success. I always add some paint to them though before I install them. You are correct, it's cheaper and easier to get a new tank. A clean fuel system is a wonderful thing.

You need to inspect the fuel pickup in your tank if you re-use it. I worked with a guy that had a 460 system, and his plastic pickup disentigrated and clogged up his return orifice at the carb with little bits of plastic.

 

I've had a couple of trucks with spectra tanks and have had no problems at all with them. Even their oil pans are good.

 

I have had a spectra tank in my truck for 5 years and it has held up well and fits just fine. I did paint it first though.

 

Any of you guys used the F26D specifically? Spectra lists the same bottom straps, ST16, for both the 38gal F26D and stock size tank. Since the F26D is twice as deep I don't see how they work, or do they have you use spacers between the straps and chassis?

 

The tank comes with installation hardware, for the modification of the fuel sender as well as extenders for the straop bolts.

plug it into here for info under part #, the part# for the install kit that comes with the tank to see the picture is LO26D

ecat.spectrapremium.com

 

The bottom straps are the same, the difference is in the top straps. The tank goes higher inside the frame for the extra capacity.

 

Ah, I see, they are pretty much supplying the parts to do what I was thinking, sleeves for longer bolts.
I had assumed that's what I'd do, but was concerned about the stability of the tank.

I have a metal bender so I may look in to making my own longer straps that attach the same way as the OE straps, just deeper than the OE straps to accommodate the deeper tank.
If the parts come with the tank as you say, I'll probably try them, but at least I can make new straps if I don't like the setup.
Thanks for the info.

BTW, I misread the Advance deal, it's 15% off orders over $50, not $50 gift card on orders over $100. But they don't have them in stock anyway. Found another place that has them for $131 + $9 shipping, supposedly in stock.

 

Not on my truck, unless they expect me to raise the bed. The top straps are only 1"-2" below the bed and the 38gal tank is about 6" deeper than the stock tank.

 

This place has the tanks cheap. I don't know what shipping would be though.

Ford Truck Gas Tanks | SUV

 

They don't list the F26D though. Which I'm sort of glad of, if they were cheaper I'd be kicking myself since I already ordered one.

 

Sorry about that, I got screwed up when I replied to that, the tank does hang out the bottom more. Don't know what I was thinking at the time.

 

No worries, been there done that.

 

Update.
I finally got around to installing the tank.
I found a working pump assembly (mine was trashed) from a mid-80's Ranger that was the right length for the tank, just one of the little locating tabs on it were in the wrong place. The metal lines are a different orientation but not an issue. All in all worth it since the OE assemblies aren't readily available plus would have to be modified.

The bracket mounting hardware that came with it wasn't correct. The bolts were too short, as were the metal sleeves for the bolts. I got some 7 1/2" grade 5 bolts and a 30" piece of 1/2" galvanized pipe that I gut to length (6 1/4") for the sleeves.
I had some old tire flaps that I cut up and put between the straps and tank.

 

After 5 months of use it's still tight in the cradle and works fine.
The sending unit turns out to not read correctly I don't think, though my side tank gauge reads about the same and is original, so I don't know. It read full for a long time, and reads empty for quite a while before it's really empty. But it goes down, once it starts in, seemingly, a normal way.

I don't worry about it too much though. I generally fill both tanks and use the trip odometer to know how far I have to go until empty.

When I fill the tanks I usually run on one for 15-20 miles to get the fuel below the filler hose to leave plenty of room for expansion, then switch to the other tank and run to empty, then switch to the other and fill both again when I have a 25-50 mile range left. I alternate which one I'm running to empty.