Starting and high idle issue

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09-21-2012, 11:18 PM

wmpick

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Starting and high idle issue

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Hi, Thanks in advance for any help you can give me as I am definitely a Newbie-I am not a truck mechanic but I am a Maintenance tech on commercial equip. and can learn most things pretty fast and am wanting to try and troubleshoot and repair what I can to save $$- so here goes…..about a year ago I purchased a 1997 Ford F-Super Duty bucket truck (450?)with a 7.5L EFI engine- I have made some repairs to bucket controls, generator, etc. but now I have engine issues- a couple of times in the past when I would go to start- it would turn over but would hang sorta like it had jumped time or something you could turn over again and sometimes would repeat and other times it would start up- I thought maybe it was battery so I replaced it about 3 mos. Ago- I don’t drive this thing very much but I try and crank it up every week or so. I found a brake line rusted in to- so I was able to pull it off the frame rail from behind the front tank and had one made and put it on and bled brakes- when I went to crank engine it would do the turn over and hang thing but I could never get it to start and then it would just turn over as normal but still not start- I had checked several issues but to no avail.- every day just about I would try and start- after a couple of weeks I tried again and now it starts every time but is idling very , very fast. I have always noticed there was a vacuum lines plugged in 2 spots right off the PCV, but I just noticed that there was a solenoid hidden between some other hoses that has 2 ends that are not connected- it is Part# E5TF-9C915-AA (canister purge control solenoid) - I purchased code reader and read codes ,only code was 558, but the battery had been unhooked for sev. Days so this might have erased other codes? Any ideas as to where to start? I have been trying to read other posts to understand about all the different sensors EGR,TPS,etc. but I have gotten confused as to where I should begin. Also another thing I noticed, not sure if has anything to do with this engine issue , is that both tanks had about ¼ tank of fuel in them, the front is still reading correct but when I switch to back tank it pegs the full mark , could this be from some computer issue or did I possibly mess something up replacing the brake line along the frame rail? Thanks again for any suggestions and sorry for long post- but wasn’t sure how else to explain.
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09-22-2012, 07:19 AM

Freightrain

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Welcome to the forums.

First thought about gas gauge is you pinched a wire in the back. Grounding the wire will make it read FULL. Unhooking it will make it read EMPTY. So, since the back on is reading full, I would suffice to say you damaged some wires out back(or someone did before).

As for the rest of the issues, can't really add any input. How is the tune up(Plugs, wires, cap, rotor)? Can you hear the fuel pump kick on for a few seconds before starting? Go to the fuel rail and find the schader valve( it's the tire valve) and after you cycle the key couple times, push and see if you get any fuel squirting out. This will eliminate fuel issues.

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09-22-2012, 07:37 AM

subford

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Sounds like someone may have timed the engine and did not know that they were to pull the SPOUT shorting bar (jumper) out before setting the timing to 10 deg BTDC.

The canister purge control solenoid should have a vacuum hose going to a "T" on the PCV valve and another vacuum hose going to the carbon canister.See photos below.

The high idle is a vacuum leak most of the time but could also be a stuck open IAC valve on & below the throttle body.
Note that higher RPM at start up is normal and should drop down after a few minutes.

When a selected fuel gauge reads passed full the gauge circuit has lost ground through the gauge sender.
This could be anywhere along the wire from the switch on the dash, plug connectors, and the sender itself could be open.
A shorted or pinched wire will make the gauge peg passed empty. Unhooking the wire will make it read passed FULL (pegged).

As for the 558 code make sure the Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid for the EGR valve is there and plugged in.
558 possible causes:
-- Damaged EVR solenoid.
-- Open harness.
-- Shorted harness.
-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

The link below is a good place to go to find out what all the Sensors & Actuators do:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/

The photos below shows the "T" and the canister purge control solenoid.

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09-23-2012, 10:12 PM

wmpick

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Thanks for the info- had to go out of town and will start troubleshooting tomorrow eve- not sure if someone added an extra tee to the vacuum line or not- I have the bigger line coming from back of engine and going to PCV and it comes out of the other side then theres a tee and both are plugged off with a short piece of hose and a bolt stuck in it- The pics you sent me are great but I'm not sure if someone added something extra or where both hook up to - I understand one should hook to the can. purge solenoid and it will run to can. but not sure about the other one or if someone added an extra Tee or what- I don't have a detailed vacuum diagram only the small one under the hood- does anyone know where to get a better detailed one for the 7.5L. - thanks again- I will post when I find out more

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09-24-2012, 07:36 AM

subford

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This vacuum diagram shows it right and should be the same one under the hood:

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10-05-2012, 06:03 PM

wmpick

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update and Fuel gauge issue

Just an update on my issues- Have been out of town and finally got back to repairs on my truck-Thanks very much to subford for the diagrams, pics and info- after getting your info I replaced the missing can. purge valve and reconnected all vacuum lines as specified- still had high idle- replaced IAC and wallah- back to normal

still have the issue with the rear tank gas gauge, still pegging full- have tried to see if there is any kind of connector behind middle fuel tank( does anyone know if there would be a connection there?) that I may have pulled apart when I replaced the brake line that runs behind it along frame but I just can't find a way to see there- I had one comment from freighttrain that said a pinched or grounded wire would make it peg full but I think subford stated that it would be the opposite? Is there any kind of test I can do to see if it is the sender gone bad or a wire problem? Also will the fuel in that tank still be usable when selected even though it is not reading correctly(pegged full)? Thanks very much again in advance for all of your expertise and info- Wm.

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