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1992 f-150 no oil pressure when warm

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  #16  
Old 09-21-2012, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DPDISXR4Ti
....unless it's an electrical issue that is thermally triggered (as a failing TFI often is).

Get it out of your head that your problem is at all related to oil pressure. It is not. In fact, as others have suggested, you probably don't have a low oil pressure issues at all, but if you do, that's absolutely NOT what is causing your engine to stall.

o ok, thank you for not feeling to need to try and ripe me a new one over a stupid question, now i have a better reason to try to look into fixing it rather then just getting rid of it, i guess the mechanic i talked to just didnt want a customer cause i explained it to him and he didnt even let me finish he knew what i was talking about and said i'd be better off getting rid of it, thats why i came here to get a second opinion.

thanks
 
  #17  
Old 09-21-2012, 07:33 PM
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We are yelling at you because we suggested that the electrical issue is what is causing the stalling issue, NOT the low oil pressure. Yet you refuse to listen.

Please tell me how in your little mind that low oil pressure will stall the engine and jump starting it gets it running again
 
  #18  
Old 09-21-2012, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
We are yelling at you because we suggested that the electrical issue is what is causing the stalling issue, NOT the low oil pressure. Yet you refuse to listen.

Please tell me how in your little mind that low oil pressure will stall the engine and jump starting it gets it running again
please learn to read before telling me i have a little mind, the truck DOES NOT need a jump start to start anymore, it starts and runs fine after its cooled down. just because someone is ignorant of one topic does not make them dumb, it means they dont know about that one topic, well and whatever else they dont know about but still, it doesnt mean some one does not possess intelligence, if you'd like my transcripts im sure i could have my schools send them to you
 
  #19  
Old 09-21-2012, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by teddyjones84
please learn to read before telling me i have a little mind, the truck DOES NOT need a jump start to start anymore, it starts and runs fine after its cooled down. just because someone is ignorant of one topic does not make them dumb, it means they dont know about that one topic, well and whatever else they dont know about but still, it doesnt mean some one does not possess intelligence, if you'd like my transcripts im sure i could have my schools send them to you
This points to an electrical sensor heating up and failing,,, Another reason to check the codes.. Make sure it has ran a few drive cycles before trying to read the codes.. If you disconnect the battery you will lose any stored codes and will need to start over again....
 
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by White 97 xlt
This points to an electrical sensor heating up and failing,,, Another reason to check the codes.. Make sure it has ran a few drive cycles before trying to read the codes.. If you disconnect the battery you will lose any stored codes and will need to start over again....
ok, thank you, I have't disconnected it since i had the battery changed and its happened twice since then, even so it will probably happen again just about the time that i will get to where ever i'm going to get the codes checked, forgive me for not knowing but should i go to a repair shop or can i have them checked at autozone, I've heard before that parts stores dont really know the codes and what the may be pertaining to, or is what i heard wrong, or does it depend on the particular store and just how experienced the employee is?

thank you
 
  #21  
Old 09-21-2012, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Fix the battery/charging issue FIRST

THEN see what the truck does.

I'm not even going to waste my breath on the BS you spewed about the older blocks being softer
+1

There are tons of trucks with "old blocks" (what the hell does that mean anyways?) that have double and triple the 122K miles that this truck has without oil pressure problems. Besides, there is NOTHING in the truck that would make the engine shut off with low or no oil pressure, other than seizing the engine (and you wouldn't do that more than once).

Wow, where do these things come from?
 
  #22  
Old 09-21-2012, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by teddyjones84
ok, thank you, I have't disconnected it since i had the battery changed and its happened twice since then, even so it will probably happen again just about the time that i will get to where ever i'm going to get the codes checked, forgive me for not knowing but should i go to a repair shop or can i have them checked at autozone, I've heard before that parts stores dont really know the codes and what the may be pertaining to, or is what i heard wrong, or does it depend on the particular store and just how experienced the employee is?

thank you
Actually, you can do as good of a job as anyone with a little time and patience... Go here and have a good read...https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...om%2F%3Fp%3D13

Or you can pick up an Equus 3145 code reader for about 25 bucks and avoid the jumpers and such... Equus 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader : Amazon.com : Automotive

Yours will be an OBDI system and the parts stores seem to not be very good (most of the time) on the older system, the newer OBDII system readers tell them whats wrong without having to look up and cipher a code...
 
  #23  
Old 09-21-2012, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by White 97 xlt
This has NOTHING to do with oil pressure, it has EVERYTHING to do with the electrical system, read the DTC codes and there is a very good chance the coolant temp sensor for the computer is out of range or something like that...
Correct - look at it this way - if it were actually dying because of a drop in oil pressure - it pretty much wouldnt be starting again for another test!

I'm guessing that if you've been able to try it a few times, then oil pressure MAY be a problem, but it's not THE problem.

Get a real pressure guage (one that works on pressure, not electricity) and stick it on there if you want to know for sure. Get one at harbor frieght - you don't need anything fancy.
 
  #24  
Old 09-21-2012, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by teddyjones84
1992 f-150 5.0L 127000 mile

I just bought the truck a couple months ago, have drive it around a little bit with no insodent. I knew the battery was bad and would have to jump it to start but ran fine after starting. Tried to go some where on the interstate and not 6 miles down the highway I started losing oil pressure so i pulled over and the engine died, I have a towed to the local ford dealership and they if the battery was bad enough it could kill it even while running(I know the alternator is fine), so I had the battery changed, started fine, took off again, didn't get much further, same thing happended. had it towed back, left it there over night, drove it home the next morning, had to take it out the next day to jump my car that some one let the battery die in, I got to where I was going and got the car started and by that time I was losing pressure agian, so i turned it off and left it there. talked to a local mechanic, he said worn bearings in the engine, too much clearance and the oil can just pass right by(I know now that the older blocks were made softer and tended to show wear after 120000, so if it is that the bearings are worn it is the right time in the mileage). I'm wondering if Its worth trying to use a heavier oil or just start over and look for a different truck. If it is worth it what weight of oil should I use, and with winter coming up am I going to be able to drive it with the heavier oil, if not is it because the oil will be too cold and thick to start? if so can i plug my block heater in and will that keep it warm enough to start?

Thank You
I'm not trying to add fuel to the fire here, but the hardness or softness of the block has nothing to do with the oil pressure. That is determined by the condition of the bearings..... and condition of the oil pump... If the oil pressure were actually dropping to a dangerous low when the engine gets up to operating temperature you would hear the lifters and rocker arms rattling like two skeletons having sex on a tin roof!!!
 
  #25  
Old 09-21-2012, 10:23 PM
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I think what most of the people have been trying to tell you, an electrical issue, is correct. Now if your battery and alternator are working properly and your oil gauge is going haywire before it shuts down, then you either have an electrical issue or a bad oil pump. I'm not sure how common it is for a truck to have low oil shut-off, and you haven't mentioned any sort of horrible engine noise, which if you truly had low oil pressure and kept starting it you would definitely hear. So that leaves electrical issue. I would guess that it is a sensor, once you reach normal operating temp, it trips and tells the ecu to shut down. There aren't too many sensors that could cause that type of reaction either. So i suggest you go buy a manual and a voltmeter and start testing each sensor one by one. It isn't that hard and the manual tells you exactly how to test each particular sensor. Most likely it is one that the others mentioned because they know more about your truck than I do. Instead of the sarcasm you should be grateful that the people on this site gave a damn about your problem and tried to help. good luck with your truck
 
  #26  
Old 09-21-2012, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Emoss9988
I think what most of the people have been trying to tell you, an electrical issue, is correct. Now if your battery and alternator are working properly and your oil gauge is going haywire before it shuts down, then you either have an electrical issue or a bad oil pump. I'm not sure how common it is for a truck to have low oil shut-off, and you haven't mentioned any sort of horrible engine noise, which if you truly had low oil pressure and kept starting it you would definitely hear. So that leaves electrical issue. I would guess that it is a sensor, once you reach normal operating temp, it trips and tells the ecu to shut down. There aren't too many sensors that could cause that type of reaction either. So i suggest you go buy a manual and a voltmeter and start testing each sensor one by one. It isn't that hard and the manual tells you exactly how to test each particular sensor. Most likely it is one that the others mentioned because they know more about your truck than I do. Instead of the sarcasm you should be grateful that the people on this site gave a damn about your problem and tried to help. good luck with your truck
Our trucks don't have a low oil/pressure shut off, that's a ch*** thing!!
 
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