found this thread over on the IDI section: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fe-to-use.html

Basically they take their used 15-40 and add a little to their tanks each fillup. Would this hurt anything on our trucks? I cant see that it would as long as your not adding gallons...would sure lube up fuel system. Any thoughts?

 

I know ATF is burned by a lot of guys i know, and ive heard of running 2-stroke oil in the fuel which did wonders apparently. My only concern is 1) its used motor oil and 2) 15-40 is a bit different than 2-stroke oil.

 

A friend of mine did this, but he was filtering used engine oil hydraulic oil trans fluid and mixing it all together and pouring it straight into the tank.

Took about two years to wipe out his injectors, I figured he wasn't getting all the carbon out and the carbon is abrasive.

 

So ill take that as one vote no. If you read that thread, that one guy says hes barreling it in his garage and just putting it straight into the fuel, not filtered. I understand that the IDI injectors are less sensitive though

 

I used to rebuild substation breakers back when they all were oil filled, I had a two stage filter press with a 5 micron primary filter and a 1/2 micron absolute secondary that would take the worst carboned up oil and make it come out looking like honey..............

I wouldn't be scared to use oil run through that filter for fuel.

Don't take my response as a no vote , just make sure you filter it enough to remove all the carbon.

 

I know plenty of guys that filter it and run it as fuel.
I have also worked on plenty of 7.3 PSD injectors ruined buy the garbage.
We don't have IDI injectors, the PSD is waaaay more finicky, but if it's properly filtered and run in small amounts it should be OK.

Having said that, motor oil is NOT a fuel oil and does not burn with the same btu's. I know fuel is expensive but I personally wouldn't risk the damage.

 

I wouldn't do it. A few gallons of cheap fuel is not worth the risk of a $300.00 injector

 

Jim will kill me for saying this because he built my injectors, (They are ready for a rebuild) I ran 30% UMO without issues.
Got 25MPG with it as well.

EOT and EGT's ran normal.

I dont' suggest doing it this hard, but with my injectors rattling the way they are, I went ahead and did it.

I wish I had a better filtering system like the previous poster mentioned. That would be the way to go.

2cycle oil is designed to burn, if your looking for lubricity do that.

If your looking to use up your old motor oil, buy a diesel tractor.
I've seen guys running 50/50 mixes in older diesel tractors.

 

I will put my vote in the no column as someone who has looked into this a lot and tried it to some extent. Even if you filter it thoroughly, you cannot get past the fact that the oil makes carbon when you burn it and it will coke up your injectors, valves, etc.

I tried a lot of "alternative fuels in my old engine just before I swapped to the lower mileage engine that is in my truck now. I figured it needed injectors (in a bad way) anyhow what did I have to lose. I tried running different mixtures of D2 and WVO, even tried their touted "W85" for a couple tanks and yeah, it burns, the truck runs good, etc, but the truck developed a nasty haze all the time (even when running straight D2). I figured that I had coked up the injectors and I was right. Once I swapped engines and pulled the injectors this is what I found:





You could clearly see that there is a little "bubble" or "halo" of carbon built up around the openings in the nozzles. Now I know that some of the "W85" faithful would say "Well you obviously hadn't figured out the right mixture" or "You should run water injection to let the steam break up the carbon and clean the combustion chamber" etc, etc, etc. These guys have an answer for everything, but the bottom line is that for a PSD, I don't recommend it. A lot of these guys are swearing that you can just filter it through an old pair of jeans, mix it with gasoline, let it settle, and pour it in. That may be the case for a while, but how many sets of injectors do you have to buy at the cost of your "free" (albeit messy and time consuming) fuel.

Again, I wouldn't hesitate to try it in and IDI, since their injectors are so cheap, they have pre-cups, mechanical injection, lower compression ratios, no turbo in most cases, etc, but in a PSD....Not so much. I run a little (absolute filtered to 5 microns) in one tank in the summer time on occasion and it does quiet the injectors down nicely, but I wouldn't suggest it as a potential motor fuel for every day use. Even then, I don't run that tank on start up or shutdown and only when the engine is up to temperature and going down the road.

I'm not afraid to admit that I tired it. I had nothing to lose with 390,000+ miles on my injectors and an engine on the stand that I intended to swap into the truck anyway. I was curious about it and I wanted to know that I could do it in case the zombie apocalypse came. It can be done! It smells bad and smokes, but it can be done. But until the SHTF and I can't get D2, I will not be running my truck on WMO, WHO, WATF, WVO, W85, etc unless I have another spare engine (or at least a set of injectors) to swap in.

For now, the bunches of waste oil that I have will only be used for heating my shop.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. Just to clarify i wouldnt be running it straight or even as a good portian of the fuel. I would only be mixing a gallon or so into each tank, after putting it through an extensive filter setup. I wouldnt run wvo in my truck unless diesel aint available.

 

Agreed

If your going to mix anything into your fuel, make sure its to add lubricity, not supplement.

Small amounts of good filtered oil per tank will help without causing carbon build up because its diluted to much.

Running a mixture such as I did was a little overkill, but I wanted to try it, and I was running out of oil storage.

Bio Diesel is the only fuel I really recommend to actually use in high quantities.
The Methanol binding makes it burn good unlike any used oils that are not bound for combustion.

 

The one thing I found with Bio is that if you're running that stuff, even in a blend (I can only get B20 here) you don't want to run ANY oil in of ANY kind in your fuel. It is pretty well known that mixing Veggie oil and waste motor oil makes a nasty sludge, but I found that mixing B20 with my filtered oil made some kind of grey gritty stuff precipitate out of the oil. I played around a lot with different mixes, testing viscosity, etc and without fail I got this grit (which is really good for clogging fuel filters -- ask me how I know) to settle out of the mix after a day or two. Mixing the same oil with regular D2 I can let it sit for months (I think there is still some sitting in a glass jar in the shop) and I never saw any trace of the stuff in the oil. It stayed completely clear and clean. I think it was the soy oil reacting with the waste oil and forming a polymer of some kind.

 

i ran 100% used atf in one of my 7.3 for a couple years with no issues the amount of money saved in 2 yrs was about 12-15 k in fuel as set of injectors was a problem if i had to replace them well worth it even a motor change would of been worth it the reason i stopped burning it was all my suppliers wanted to charge me a for it so i stopped

 

How were you filtering it?

 

a friend of mine was running use un filtered motor oil in his 7.3 and destroyed his injectors in a month.