Garage just called, said that my bottom seal on my turbo is leaking oil VERY slowly. Nothing to be concerned about, just something to keep an eye on it. Says he's seen alot worse, so he isn't concerned. Would have to pull the turbo to fix.

What's your opinions?

Can someone post a drawing or picture of which seal he is talking about?

If turbo is pulled, what else should be done for preventative maintenance or small upgrades?

How hard is this to fix? Special tools, etc.

 

If you have any skills at all you can do this and save a ton.
With the turbo off there is alot of things you can do,it all depends on how much you want to spend.What upgrades do you have in mind?
If you are just going to fix the leak then you just need to call Bob(Guzzle)and get a set of pedestal and turbo orings.

 

I am pretty handy. Possible instructions somewhere?

I am new to diesels. What kind of upgrades should I look at?

 

What is your location?
How many miles on your vehicle?
When you get the turbo off, you will probably find that your up pipe to collector seals are leaking. The upgrade is new bellowed up pipes.
I cut my Exhaust Back Pressure Valve out, welded the hole for the valve stem up and I have to replace my up pipe to collector gasket donuts. The donut gasket is short term and will leak again. The long term fix is bellowed up pipes. If you tell us your location and what year we can help you more. My actuator in the pedestal (the thing the turbo mount on top of) was leaking oil out of the rod seal reallllllly bad. Pic here.


The pedestal mounts to the engine in the valley and two orings are needed at this location along with two orings on top of the pedestal between the pedestal and turbo. Here is a picture of the valley with the original oring yellow material still in my valley left over from the old orings. The oil drains to the hole in the picture just left of center and below the 90 degree bend in the tubing. All the leakage ends up between your oil pan/rear engine and the transmission. I don't have a underneath picture to show you the nastiness.


You can get a turbo re-install kit from dieselorings.com here
Turbo Re-Install Kit - GTP38

Your leak can come from the EBPV actuator, turbo to pedestal orings or pedestal to engine orings. All come in the above mentioned kit. New clip to put the EBPV acutator rod back on OR you can delete the EBPV by cutting it out with a rotary file with carbide bit and welding up your valve stem hole. Two pictures of valve removed and welded up hole. I used a piece of the rod to weld up the hole.


The options on the pedestal are to take the actuator apart and plug the oil holes inside shut with a weld or peen in a ball bearing into the oil flow hole.....or purchase a van pedestal for the proper year that does not have the Actuator in it. This is the 1999.5-03 pedestal for sale. You also have the option of putting in a oring kit that reseals your actuator so you can use it in decel tunes if that is what you might want to do.
Garrett Turbo Pedestal NON-EBPV 1999.5 - 2003
Now the Early 1999 pedestal.
Garrett Turbo Pedestal - Early 99 Non-EBPV
Rebuild kit for EBPV Actuator (located inside the pedestal, look at the dirty pedestal picture above)
http://www.dieselorings.com/1999-200...build-kit.html
Up pipes here from http//www.dieselorings.com
Dieselorings: International Bellowed Up-pipe Kit 99.5-03
or from Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts | Ford 7.3 diesel | 7.3 powerstroke | Ford Powerstroke | 7.3L Powerstroke Parts here depending on wether you have a early 1999 or the late 99-03
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Diesel Exhaust Parts | International Bellowed Up-pipes | Diesel Up-pipes - International Bellowed Up-pipes

The EBPV allows for warmup while at idle and can be used in some fuel tunes as a decel tune to slow the truck down with much reduced brakes. I decided that I didn't need mine and cut it out. I installed the resistor in this thread with many pictures so it would not give a soft code with the EBPV solenoid not plugged in. Here is the thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-install.html
Let us know where you are located and ask as many questions as you know to ask at this point.

OK, it is Moe's mondays at moes southwestern grill. Time to get some lunch and get to work on my truck.

 

I think riffraff has a removal n install of turbo, along with the orings you need. Its called, cabinet kit. You can go off fixit pics or google, how to gut ur pedestal, if wanting that route.

 

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf

 

So, if im gunna pull the turbo....

I'll aggree with you there. Why go through that much work and NOT change the up pipes, when they are right there

My up pipes are embarrassingly rusted. Don't know if that is normal for everyone else up in the great state of Pennsylvania. Ive read a few threads over the last few weeks pertaining to the up pipes are their restrictions, so i figured, I might as well. Riff Raff of course!!

What do you guys think?

What other upgrades should I do?

The other think I forgot to mention, Is that the mechanic (which by the way, I trust wholeheartedly) said that the Oil pan is also rusting through. And that he would have to pull the engine to change the pan.

Any ideas on what should be done at this time also?

 

The reason I am just doing the donut gaskets right now instead of new up pipes is truly money driven. New donut gasket and hardware with 2 day shipping is 60$. My new early 99 up pipes are 800$ 740$ difference. I just found out I have 60-80 hours of Over Time scheduled this month and next month so maybe I can order the Early 99 upgrade kit by the end of October. It is 2500$ plus coating and I am thinking of removing exhaust manifolds and getting them coated also. The upgrade kit is new bellowed up pipes for the late 99-03, New GTP38R Turbo, new inlet plenums with plenum inserts, new boots for larger outlet pipes to inlet plenum and I am sure some yellow tape will be involved somewhere along the way. I will have the CCV re route done before the new setup is in. It really comes down to money.
Dwayne

 

Your mechanic is correct, in regards to removingthe motor to replace the pan, unless you want to cut out the crossmember, and then weld it back in. Also, with ur climates i'm assuming you live in, it would probably be wise to leave the EBPV assy intact, in the pedestal..for those COOOLLLD morning start-ups.

Another thing you might wanna do, is rebuild the oil cooler. If your pan is looking the way its been described, i bet the oil cooler isnt far behind.