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92 F250 2WD E4OD removal - bell housing bolts!

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Old 09-13-2012, 06:58 PM
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92 F250 2WD E4OD removal - bell housing bolts!

Howdy.

Began the removal process for my E4OD, from my 1992 F250 5.8L 2WD.

Got to the point where I need to remove the six (6) bell housing bolts. Trouble is, I can only see/feel 4 of them, and one of those I am not sure how to get a wrench/socket on for removal.

The top two bolts seem light years away from being removed, as I can't even see them.

I would love some hints on this, my shop manual simply says "remove the six bolts" - yeah, in what universe?!?!?!

What have you guys done in the past to successfully remove these six bolts?

thanks,
mikey
 
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:18 PM
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I always use a long extension and a flex/universal joint socket...

Pull the cross member and use a jack to let the back of the transmission down a little..
 
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:22 PM
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I dunno, .....every time I do it, undo tourque convertor from the flywheel. Then for the top two bolts I just used a few extensions, with a universal.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ad.php?t=48997
 
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:15 PM
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Might be difficult to see but they're up there. Mine was pretty easy since I have a 3 inch body lift, really gives a lot of room under there to work. Stuck a bunch of extensions together into one long one to get those out.
 
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by White 97 xlt
I always use a long extension and a flex/universal joint socket...

Pull the cross member and use a jack to let the back of the transmission down a little..
X2.....really long extension (30-48"!) and u-joint socket.
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:08 AM
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OK!

Thanks for the tips. I'll give it a go today.

Once I remove the cross-member, and eventually the transmission, is there any need to support the engine? The manual does not talk about it, and I notice the engine mounts are further back than other engines I've worked on in my past.

Thoughts?

mikey.
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:26 AM
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Small chunks of 2x4 works
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by F250F250F250
OK!

Thanks for the tips. I'll give it a go today.

Once I remove the cross-member, and eventually the transmission, is there any need to support the engine? The manual does not talk about it, and I notice the engine mounts are further back than other engines I've worked on in my past.

Thoughts?

mikey.
I would remove the cross-member before removing the bell housing bolts. You then lower the back end some and then you support the transmission with a transmission jack and the engine with blocks and remove the bell housing bolts.
That is why you can not see them as you have not lowered the back end of the transmission.
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by subford
I would remove the cross-member before removing the bell housing bolts. You then lower the back end some and then you support the transmission with a transmission jack and the engine with blocks and remove the bell housing bolts.
That is why you can not see them as you have not lowered the back end of the transmission.

Yep, we have not removed the cross-member, yet. That step comes before the bell-housing bolts, but we were cautious and tired at the end of yesterday, so today we will get back into it and start by removing the cross-member.

Thanks for all the help!
mikey.
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:50 PM
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TOP BELL HOUSING BOLTS

In many cases, I have accessed those 2 bolts from above, under the hood, using an off-set box wrench.

impish
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 03:40 PM
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Thanks to all of your help, I'm able to remove 5 of the 6 bell housing bolts. Removing the cross member and lowering the tranny slightly did reveal the two top bolts, and they turned out to be some of the easiest to remove.

If it matters, my truck is from California. The bolt that holds the tranny dipstick/fill tube also holds some tubing that runs back to the exhaust/muffler. This is causing me a problem because I cannot move the tubing bracket enough to get at the bell housing bolt. This bolt is actually a stud, so that the nut holding the bracket for the exhaust tubing (not exhaust pipes themselves, some other tubing that goes to muffler) threads onto a stud, and once the tubing bracket is removed, there's a bolt holding the fill tube to the bell housing and the bell housing to the engine.

I'm headed home to get my engine shop manual, with the hopes it will show me how to remove these pipes.

Any guidance from those who have worked on this setup would be great! As usual, this forum has been more than helpful.

thanks,
mikey.
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:15 PM
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For thw future: if you pull up the carpet in the cab there will be an access pannel right where a manual shifter would be. It makes the top two bolts very easy to remove
 
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:15 PM
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Some do and some don't, I know for a fact my 92 has no access hole like my 88 did
 
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:56 PM
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Maybe not then, my 94 does and I figured it'd be the same for the whole generation.
 
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Derek150
For thw future: if you pull up the carpet in the cab there will be an access pannel right where a manual shifter would be. It makes the top two bolts very easy to remove
Thanks!

I looked for such a panel from the underside, but didn't see one. The top two were easy enough after I dropped the tranny down a bit.

Tomorrow I get to continue the struggle with the tubing that's in the way.
 


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