great find on the f/p adaptor...cant beat that for 4 buks. Anywhere else, it runs $20.00. Just shot the p/n to a few buddys that dont have the f/p gauge yet... BTW, good luck with the leak man.

 

They are actually a few cents cheaper (.24) at Riffraff. But McMaster is overnight...

Do people use the pre-filter port or post filter port for their gauge? I'm guessing post, so you can see what the engine is receiving...

 

..........................

 

??????????

 

most install post filter, my reasoning was because you can also then tell, if/when filter is clogged up..low psi, but that dont hold water, because if adaptor installed pre-filter, high psi can result then with clogged filter.

 

McMaster is amazing.

Thanks!

Yep, that's the only reason. Well, plus it was like 6:00 p.m. when I placed the order. I think the cutoff is 7 p.m. Again, amazing.

For the purpose of my test, which was seeing what the cap was subjected to, I used the pre- port. Plus, it is located higher up and easier to access. I agree with both of you though, if I were going to put a gauge in the dash I would use the one that's right at the fuel output lines. I guess if one was a real gauge nerd they'd have both, so they could judge the condition of their filter.

.

 

Well, nothing earth-shattering.

I used what appears to be a pretty good-quality, large engine compression tester that I picked up at a garage sale a few years ago. I plumbed it to the upper test port. Scale is 0-200 psi.

I picked up the new FPR innards at the dealer this morning. With the old FPR in place, the pressure was 65 psi. I cycled the key a number of times, and I also was able to hear fuel flowing through the FPR with a stethoscope, and heard it returning to the tank by listening at the filler pipe. At one point during the testing the top gasket did spring a leak, but I snugged it just a little bit and it stopped.

Well, I already had the FPR guts and had already opened the package, so I couldn't take it back. Plus, I thought maybe there's a possibility of a transient condition where the poppet gets hung up on the guide and spikes the pressure, so I went ahead and changed out the parts.

With the new FPR guts, the pressure read 73 psi. It did spring a leak once at the top of the bowl gasket, but again I snugged it and that problem went away and did not come back, and I must have done a dozen or more key cycles after that. The sound of the flow through the FPR (using the stethoscope) was quite different from the old one. I have no idea if that means anything.

So truthfully, I have no idea what was or is going on. My pressure appears to be in the normal range, and I now seem to have a good seal on the bowl lid (which, by the way, I very carefully visually inspected yet again). I can tell you that I won't be putting my face anywhere near that thing for a while

 

It seems like a couple of folks already said it wasn't pressure related. Maybe it's time to go back and try those other suggestions now.

 

Well, I just re-read the entire thread, and didn't see anything I haven't tried. Was there something specific you had in mind?

 

Kev, if you wanna sell the old FPR, i'll take it. BTW, i know when putting the filter cap on, it seems to go on right everytime, but then it starts to get resistance, before it even reaches the gasket. There, i know then, i crossed threaded it, so backing ur off ,and resetting it, works everytime...anyway, pm me if you wanna sell the old kit and hopefully allz wells.

 

Thanks Tim, I will PM you about the parts. I don't encounter any resistance threading the cap on, unless I have neglected to push the filter all the way down. Otherwise it threads on smooth as silk, and the gap between the cap and the bowl seems uniform all the way around.

 

Yes, change the gasket at the lid to a new one. Remove the o-rings or sleeves that are leaking and inspect for any signs of damage. Clean the fuel lines or drain valve, as well as the fuel bowl that the seal fits against. Re-install or replace and make sure everything lines up correctly and is torqued down properly.

Don't try and make this something complicated. Unless you've got several cracks in the bowl or lid or fittings, then just take your time and pull it apart, clean and re-install or replace.

If there are any nicks or signs of damage, you'll need to replace o-rings or sleeves. Lube them up a little before you re-install.

Basically what I said back in post #5.

 

Did that yesterday. Post 32.


Decided yesterday that I wasn't completely sure other places were leaking (again, post 32). Remember, this was GUSHING fuel out of the lid gasket, kind of hard to get a good look when fuel is spraying everywhere, don't want to leave the key on for more than a few seconds. Can't even really see the fittings below when there is a fan spray of diesel coming out of the lid.


Trust me, I am not trying to make this complicated. Today I ruled out the FPR or clogged return line. Those were both logical steps. At this point it is simply a brand-new OEM lid gasket on a bowl and lid that are perfectly clean and have no defects, operating at their designed pressure, but blowing out randomly.

As of this afternoon it seems to be holding. I'll put a ziplock bag over the lid area and move on to getting the engine buttoned back up.

.

 

So it's holding now? Has it held before, but blown out and started leaking (gushing)?

If you've still got to search, disconnect the fuel line coming into the bowl, either in front of the fuel pump, or at the inlet in the bowl, and used compressed air to pressurize the bowl. Be sure to use the regulator on the compressor to set the air pressure at around 65 psi or so.

It will be a lot easier to pinpoint things with air coming out with fuel bubbles than it is with fuel spraying everywhere.

 

I didn't get to work on it today, I'll be hitting it tomorrow morning. Since I have determined that the regulator is working, and I *think* I have determined that the other leaks either went away or were in my imagination to begin with, it's narrowed down to just a lid that's prone to leaks. And, it seemed to be holding pretty well as of yesterday.

I like the idea of using compressed air, I have what I need to do that. If I have any further problems I may try that.

As far as your first question, I never had problems like this before with multiple filter/gasket changes, so that's why I've been kind of baffled.

I have replaced all of the FPR guts, I suppose that the old poppet could have been ticking around in there and then jammed suddenly and spiked the pressure, leading to the lid leaks. Just a theory though, and not necessarily a strong one.

For now I will tie-wrap a freezer bag somewhat loosely over the bowl, so that if it does pop again it will be contained and leak out of the bottom of the bag.

On the plus side, the valley of my engine has never been cleaner!

Tomorrow I will continue to put the thing back together from the injector cup change and HPOP re-seal. I'll also be doing the 50 cent mod, the CCV re-route, and the AIH delete as I am in the process.

Hopefully I will actually get it started; I want my truck back and I want my weekends back!

Thanks for your help.