Not an expert in auto transmissions that said I'm fairly confident at this point your problems are in the trans itself.

Filter dropped off, something sticky in the valve body or VB bolts loose/unevenly tight perhaps.

Unplugging the SP took everything else out of the equation, solenoids them being energized are not required for reverse.

You can create a test harness so you can drive the truck, shift the truck manually from inside the cab if you wish.
However doubt it'll act any different then it does now if you did it, forward gears would work as they do now and reverse would still be a problem.

Looked it up little bit, seams trans requires large volume and higher line pressure for reverse then forward gears, converter needs pressure to hold the lockup clutch off. Pressure to the converter drops, the clutch can drift "on".

Have you tried pulling the lever down, manual sift into first gear? Near same effect as reverse doing so or no?

Time drop that pan, check out that filter. sucks air, pressure drops, converter clutch "on".

If the filter is ok check the torque on the valve body bolts, make sure all evenly tight at 80 to 100 in-lbs.

When was it rebuilt? take it is was recently based on your first post? Did you take it to the rebuilder show them how it acts?

Let me guess....blamed it on the truck?

 

It started doing it last year. Since then I've had the trans serviced, no change, had it rebuilt(last week), no change. I told them what it was doing and they said it could be some internal problem, but guess it wasn't.

 

Post your video over here, briefly describe problem and testing done.

Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Likely, at this point, guys over there prove to be of better help.

 

Ok I'll try. Doubt I can get the video posted. I don't have much signal at home.

 

You could post a link to this thread and include the post number for the video if can't post a link to it (post 21).

However you already up loaded the video to photobucket, simply post the link it to it.

D4E0E034-BA81-454E-A425-2F7AEADA3BA7-1777-000001B623CE9743.mp4 video by Danielhughes - Photobucket

Start your thread over there, if for some reason you can't figure out how to post the link, no problem post here let me know and I'll post it for you in the thread.

 

I doubt the person checking it was competent.
You still have an issue with the electrical system (winch and windows not working correctly) that they claimed didn't exist.

I'd find a "more qualified" person to find where your electrical problem is.

On a side note....... I think I found why (last night) I have a "harsh reverse" and a stumble/missing problem.

A poor alternator ground most likely took out part of the voltage regulator in my alternator.

I tried bypassing the alternator ground (corroded aluminum mounting bracket) and ran straight to the front fender ground.
The fender to front support got very warm to the touch.......

My electronic stumble appears to happen as soon as the voltage regulator is suppose to "kick in".

I think my voltage regulator is shorting to ground as it "kicks in" at about 1200 rpms due to the "poor alternator ground" I had/have.

Also, and this IS RELEVANT information that Dan has said " Looked it up little bit, seams trans requires large volume and higher line pressure for reverse then forward gears, converter needs pressure to hold the lockup clutch off. Pressure to the converter drops, the clutch can drift "on".

I have a buzzing/hissing noise coming from the transmission (likely a pump) at the exact time my truck starts it's electronic stumbling as well as a noticeable "glitch" on the tachometer.

Given all this.......I still think you have an "electrical issue" that's causing you grief.

I know that I do.

My take again,

Bob

 

How else can I test it? I have another alternator that might be the same and I've got a '68 bronco with a 351 from an 89 f250 that I can borrow parts off of.

 

When I took the pickup out for a drive this evening, everything started working halfway right. The speedometer started off bouncing then worked right for quite awhile and it barely stalled when I floored it in reverse. The only thing thats different is that its been cold and raining all day. Any thoughts?

 

Yep, you have a grounding problem somewhere.
Speedo bouncing, power windows and winch...excessive drain...... all point to a grounding problem.

Where to start ????
Start cleaning and checking at the battery cable clamps (positive AND negative) and work your way back to the cab.

The speedometer (PSOM) uses a ground in the kick panels in the cab.
Once the speedometer loses it's ground, the needle will bounce.
Once the computer sees a loss of VSS signal (because of the speedometer losing it's ground) the transmission WILL shift hard.

All of those grounds are "tied together" by the cab to fender bolts, the fender ground (near the battery negative post) ties into to the negative battery post, either via the battery clamp or molded into the battery clamp, which is most likely where where your problem(s) are occouring.

A poor/corroded battery connection(s) on the negative side of the battery would explain all of your symptoms. And yes, the "charging system" would check as good too.

Just my thought again,

Bob

 

While I was looking around under the dash I found this. Anybody know what it is? It was unplugged.

 

Seat belt chime/buzzer.

Did you test your trans line pressures yet?

 

I figured so. No I haven't had a chance to take it and get it tested. I did mess with some grounds and stuff today but nothing has helped.

 

Here's a shot in the dark. How about checking the ignition system (ign module and coil)? Reverse gear has a taller gear ratio. Would it be possible for a weak ignition component to cause this stumbling in reverse only and not in first, because of the difference in gear ratios?

 

The guy at o'reilly's said that I could have burnt my voltage regulator up thats in the alternator by unhooking the battery while its running. Is this true? Should I put a new alt in and see what happens? Is there a better alt to get than factory?

 

Yes, and if you're lucky you haven't taken out any "other" electronics in the truck with it !!!!

Read up on the G3 alternator "upgrade"....... do a search on this forum.
It's a good system and can be done for less than buying another "stock" alternator.


I did a little more tweaking to my truck last weekend.........
What I found is that a "harsh" reverse engagement could be due to a vacuum leak (being picked up by the MAP sensor and relayed to the computer) or an improper/leaking vacuum cannister "system" which could be depleteing the vacuum cannister too much too soon.

As wild as that sounds...........it appeared to be true for me.
I think you have two problems, electrical and vacuum related at this point.

Just what I've found,


Bob