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early 99 v10 stutter/miss, no codes

 
  #16  
Old 06-21-2019, 11:35 AM
ashleyroachclip
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I have owned my V10 , manual trans scsb 4x4 , for 7 years and have put over a hundred k miles on him .
Had a similar problem , replacing the 10 boots fixed the problem .
It is next to impossible to see with your eyes a pin hole crack , that electricity can escape .
Boots are available at any part store. got mine at carquest , for i think 20 bucks or so .
 
  #17  
Old 06-27-2019, 01:06 PM
jim87formula
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I have a 2001 Excursion V10 doing the same thing. I've done everything you can think of to resolve the problem except for unplugging each coil while it's running. Mine idles fine until you put it into gear and then it has a slight miss. But going into overdrive and lightly touching the gas pedal it will miss like crazy from 2,000 RPMs and under. Seems it is getting worst getting up to speed but then runs how it should. I have a few extra COP's for just in case situations so I'll go out and try it and report back.
 
  #18  
Old 06-27-2019, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jim87formula View Post
I have a 2001 Excursion V10 doing the same thing. I've done everything you can think of to resolve the problem except for unplugging each coil while it's running. Mine idles fine until you put it into gear and then it has a slight miss. ....
How many miles since the plug boots have been replaced?
The coils will far outlast the boots.
If the boots have more than 50k I would start with replacing them and retorque the plugs to 20-25 ft/lbs while in there.
A set of 10 boots is $32 at Rock Auto.
 
  #19  
Old 06-27-2019, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by R&T Babich View Post
How many miles since the plug boots have been replaced?
The coils will far outlast the boots.
If the boots have more than 50k I would start with replacing them and retorque the plugs to 20-25 ft/lbs while in there.
A set of 10 boots is $32 at Rock Auto.
Replaced everything maybe 1K miles ago. Truck has 165K miles on it.
 
  #20  
Old 06-27-2019, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jim87formula View Post
Replaced everything maybe 1K miles ago. Truck has 165K miles on it.
Has the IAC valve ever been replaced?
The IAC valve controls all air entering the engine at idle and if stuck open can affect things at lower RPMs.
You need to identify which cylinder/s are misfiring.
It takes a lot of misfires to set a code.
An OBD2 Bluetooth adapter and Torque Pro app or a USB adapter and Forscan with a PC will allow access to the raw data to see misfiring cylinders.
Both are under $50.
 
  #21  
Old 06-28-2019, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by R&T Babich View Post
Has the IAC valve ever been replaced?
The IAC valve controls all air entering the engine at idle and if stuck open can affect things at lower RPMs.
You need to identify which cylinder/s are misfiring.
It takes a lot of misfires to set a code.
An OBD2 Bluetooth adapter and Torque Pro app or a USB adapter and Forscan with a PC will allow access to the raw data to see misfiring cylinders.
Both are under $50.
Well I did the test today and unplugged all 10 cylinders and all of the COP's are working how they should. I took off the IAC valve and cleaned it. It did seem like it might of been stuck. I haven't road tested it yet but did put into gear a few times with no type of missing, so crossing fingers it was just the IAC valve. I'll report back if it was the IAC valve. Thanks for the info everyone!
 
  #22  
Old 06-29-2019, 01:07 PM
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I cleaned my IACV with Seafoam through the brake booster before, worked temporarily. Finally just replaced with a new Motorcraft unit.

Originally had a stumble at idle.
 
  #23  
Old 06-29-2019, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jim87formula View Post
Well I did the test today and unplugged all 10 cylinders and all of the COP's are working how they should. I took off the IAC valve and cleaned it. It did seem like it might of been stuck. I haven't road tested it yet but did put into gear a few times with no type of missing, so crossing fingers it was just the IAC valve. I'll report back if it was the IAC valve. Thanks for the info everyone!
So good news, it drove like how it should. It had a slight stumble when driving around 35-40 MPH when it went into overdrive but cleared up quickly. But least I know what the issue is now and thanks again for y'alls help!

Originally Posted by Bently_Coop View Post
I cleaned my IACV with Seafoam through the brake booster before, worked temporarily. Finally just replaced with a new Motorcraft unit.

Originally had a stumble at idle.
I cleaned mine with some carb/choke cleaner but you can tell some built up carbon/oil is stuck in there so I'll be ordering a new one here soon.
 
  #24  
Old 06-29-2019, 04:03 PM
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Also, the best deal that I found for one is on ebay for $27.20, if anyone is interested here is the link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-99...75.c1#viTabs_0
 
  #25  
Old 06-29-2019, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jim87formula View Post
Also, the best deal that I found for one is on ebay for $27.20, if anyone is interested here is the link: ....
I'm interested, but since he has no more for sale it's not a useful link.
 
  #26  
Old 06-30-2019, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by R&T Babich View Post
I'm interested, but since he has no more for sale it's not a useful link.
It was useful when first posted I'm sure--at that cost its no wonder it was gone. They seem to be averaging about $80 new Ford/Motorcraft through eBay. RockAuto might have a good price but don't count on a genuine Ford part being all that much cheaper there than eBay, Amazon etc.
 
  #27  
Old 07-09-2019, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jim87formula View Post
So good news, it drove like how it should. It had a slight stumble when driving around 35-40 MPH when it went into overdrive but cleared up quickly. But least I know what the issue is now and thanks again for y'alls help!



I cleaned mine with some carb/choke cleaner but you can tell some built up carbon/oil is stuck in there so I'll be ordering a new one here soon.
So sorry that I have hijacked this thread and I did believe I found out the issue but after installing the new IACV it didn't solve my issue. I see these issues posted all the time but really no clear answer. I hate throwing parts at it and I think my next step would be MAF sensor and TPS sensor. What would be next to look at and to change?
 
  #28  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:55 AM
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This weekend I add to to replaced some exhaust pipe between the cat and muffler and afterwards I decided to pull some COP's due to I have a few spare COP's, so I started to replace the front two (#1 & #6 cylinder), test drove it and still had the miss so I replaced the next two (#2 & #7 cylinder) and it fixed my hesitation and the miss! That one COP must of had a wire broken in it because when idling it was working just fine but after warmed up or put into gear or driving under 2K RPMs in overdrive it was missing like crazy. I knew it wasn't the CAT or torque converter acting up. I'm finally glad that I found the issue. Hope someone reading this will also help them out! Thanks!
 
  #29  
Old 07-15-2019, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jim87formula View Post
.... so I replaced the next two (#2 & #7 cylinder) and it fixed my hesitation and the miss! That one COP must of had a wire broken in it because when idling it was working just fine but after warmed up or put into gear or driving under 2K RPMs in overdrive it was missing like crazy. ...
Do you still have the "bad" COP assembly?
How many miles on the COP?
The boot may have been degraded, they can look fine, but under load the spark can go right thru an invisible to the eye pin hole.
The coil may good.
 
  #30  
Old 07-15-2019, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by R&T Babich View Post
Do you still have the "bad" COP assembly?
How many miles on the COP?
The boot may have been degraded, they can look fine, but under load the spark can go right thru an invisible to the eye pin hole.
The coil may good.
I do have the bad COP. It has 165K miles and they look orginal. I changed the boots and plugs about 2K miles ago with the same issue as stated before. Changing out the COP was the culprit for sure.
 

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