Well, you asked for opinions, and even though I've got one you won't like...Well, I guess you should have asked for compliments only, so here it goes.

I have to agree with what some of the others here said about wasting your time, unless your time has not value. The first car I bought myself was a 57 Plymouth for $65 from my school bus driver. It had rust so bad, that the eyebrows of the headlights were gone except for the trim rings. So I filled the holes with chicken wire and started putting on the bondo. I worked my A$$ off, and when it was done, I was really proud of myself. Didn't matter to me that the paint did not match, and that in order to not have the holes I had high spots all over the place.

To make a long story short, the repair didn't last long enough to make it worth the time spent. What's worse, the first time I filled the gas tank up completely, I discovered that the seam in it leaked and half of the tank ran onto my Dad's new black top driveway. It ended up having to be cut out and have new Blacktop put down.

Shortly after I bought a new gas tank the bondo started to crack and came out. Moral of the story was I should have spent my time more wisely and taken time to fix important stuff, like that gas tank.

I'm afraid you did the same as I did way back then...namely, all you and I did was to put lipstick onto a pig, and the first time it was put to the test, it came right back off! While I applaud your efforts of trying to make your truck look better, I am afraid that it won't last long, and you will be twice as frustrated when you find that you did waste your time. The only way to get rid of rust is to cut it out and replace the panel.

Here is a word of advice to you though. If you plan to do any more quick and dirty rust repairs, as least coat all of the rust with a product like POR 15, which actually will inhibit rust for a while anyways. It is a product well know to the antique car resto crowd for it's ability to stop rust (at least for a time).

I just hope that when and if you sell your truck that you are honest enough to tell the new buyer that you did a temporary, cosmetic rust repair. Anything else would be extremely dishonest. Sorry for the long winded post.

 

it's his truck don't like don't look at it
why waste time clicking this post if you don't have anything good to say?

 

That's good for Brad! Some people USE their trucks, so there is no point in making a cream puff out of a work truck if it's only going to get dented and driven in the salt.
Yes, the body filler WILL come out. There is NO reason to be rude about it.
If you cut out the rust and welded in Stainless steel repair panels then the truck would STILL rust out somewhere if it continues to get used.
I dont see the point of restoring a truck for thousands of dollars to have it set in a climate controlled room if you can't use it.
Also, I don't believe in any rustproofing or paints. They simply don't work.
I spray my vehicles with used fry oil. It's messy and has to be done twice a year to be effective buts it's the only thing that is biodegradable and works.

That's my opinion.

 

I used spray foam and bondo on my black 93, because it was a $500 pile of poop and I didn't expect it to last long.

My 95 Centurion is different though. It was also a cheap truck to buy, but I'm planning on either having it for a long time, or making its resale value higher. So far I've only repaired the rockers and floors, and that was done with sheetmetal. The rest of the truck will get new metal too: radiator support, fenders, and rear wheel arches.

Different goals, different fixes.

Gotta agree with some of the others, though. That bondo isn't going to last long at all, and it probably isn't going to be worth the effort you put into it. However, it's a better use of time than drooling on an Xbox controller, internet stalking someone, or hitting the bong all day.

 

Try Fluid Film. It lasts, it works. Doesnt smell like used fryer oil. LOL Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

 

POR15 is an EXCELLENT product, that DOES work. 15+ years and counting on one of my brothers plow trucks

 

Brad, I know your feelings on patch panels...And yes, I've seen them rust at the weld seams...

But my question is, why couldn't I use a small butane/propane torch to wick away all the moisture and put POR15 on the BACKSIDE of the repair..

That'd give it protection and seal it on both sides, Vs. just the front and allowing the rust to pop right back through...

Remember...Rust needs air for the Oxidation process, etc...And if you snuff it out with a good quality project...Then there you go..

And btw, the reason I'm going that route vs. the entire bedside, is that I got all 4 needed patch panels for $50...

 

THANKYOU. See if it was something that i was gonna keep forever i might have done patch panels but im not good at sheet metal work anyway so it would probly have looked worse. As far as im concerned its just my school truck and i just wanted to make it look a little better to my buddies seeing how almost evey truck this old here is rusted out. Thanks guys for the comments

 

Because you will not be able to get to the back of the repair. The inner wheel well support blocks your access, hence why it rotted in the 1st place.

As for the patch panels costing 50 each, that is great, but when you figure a weekend PER patch panel and it still will not be the best repair. I do 2 bed skins in a weekend and the repair is FAR superior. I guess my time is far to valuable to do a marginal repair, only to have to come back and do it again. I follow my dads advice. "do it right, or dont do it at all"

 

Bingo.

My advice to the original poster and those in similar situations, buy an inexpensive stick or mig welder and practice welding on thin scraps of steel until you build up your confidence, then weld on patch panels to the vehicle you're repairing.

When I was young and seemingly didn't know better, I slathered bondo on everything. Can after can. It seemed to be magic stuff. I got to the point where I could even form ridges and lines of the car body with the stuff.

The problem is bondo is designed to fill minor dings and scrapes. It's not designed to be slathered on very thick, nor does it solve the original rust problem.

It makes what you see very pretty and gives you a nice paintable surface, but what happens is in a short while, as the rust keeps spreading, eventually the bondo won't have anything to stick to, and it falls of.

I learned that the hard way. It was an expensive lesson. I "restored" a car twice because of it. The first time, the bondo way (only five cans of bondo heh-heh) and the second time, the welding/patch panel way.

Unfortunately, I had painted and clearcoated the car after the first restore, so I had to do the painting over too. And, the rust I bondo'd over got much worse, making the second restore even more of a challenge.

For a beater vehicle that you don't care about, I agree, swadging some rust holes and primering over it is not unreasonable.

But if you want to keep the vehicle for years to come, doing it right, as much work as it is, is the best way.

Plus, learning to weld is a great skill to put in your quiver. Not only can you repair car bodies, you can also repair yard equipment, railings, fencing, and make things from scratch. You can even remove broken bolts with a mig welder. On my cousin's car, I had to remove all the head bolts but two that way - for all but two snapped when he tried to remove them.

While you might not like the harsh delivery of this message from others, I have to say from my own personal experience, they are correct.

 

Thing is i know how to weld. We got 3 migs and 1 stick. And for the most part i can weld pretty good

 

Brad, you mistaken me...I meant, that I bought ALL 4 of the panels for $50...Not $50 each..

Anywho..

I completely understand the point you're making...

But $300-500 isn't exactly in my bank account at the moment...

And this repair, will hold until ^ IS in the bank account...