Using a fuel injected long block to replace a carburated long block
#1
Using a fuel injected long block to replace a carburated long block
So my question is pretty straight forward... Can I pull a fuel injected 302 long block out of say a mustang, explorer or even a crown vic to use as a replacement for an older long block that is carburated? What sort of changes need to be made (i.e. cam shaft) to make this work right?
I have a situation where I overheated an engine and suspect head gaskets blew as there is water in the cylinders... Considering the time and expense of replacing these and having the heads checked for cracks, It seems it might be just as easy and comparable in price to simply replace the whole damn motor with something 20 years newer if there arent a whole lot of changes to be made internally.
All the peripherals on the outside of the old engine are in great shape and it ran strong until it overheated. My thinking is that I can gain newer parts and perhaps a bit of extra power by doing this.
As an alternative would it be viable to stick a pair of late model (gt40 exploder) heads onto the current block? I located a couple pairs for a decent price.
My overall goal is to fix this with it having more power than I started with for about the same price as fixing what I have. I figure if I have to spend the money anyway, why not get a little more out of it...
Thanks!
I have a situation where I overheated an engine and suspect head gaskets blew as there is water in the cylinders... Considering the time and expense of replacing these and having the heads checked for cracks, It seems it might be just as easy and comparable in price to simply replace the whole damn motor with something 20 years newer if there arent a whole lot of changes to be made internally.
All the peripherals on the outside of the old engine are in great shape and it ran strong until it overheated. My thinking is that I can gain newer parts and perhaps a bit of extra power by doing this.
As an alternative would it be viable to stick a pair of late model (gt40 exploder) heads onto the current block? I located a couple pairs for a decent price.
My overall goal is to fix this with it having more power than I started with for about the same price as fixing what I have. I figure if I have to spend the money anyway, why not get a little more out of it...
Thanks!
#2
The newer engine uses a 50 ounce imbalance on the crank, so will need its own harmonic damper and flywheel. The early engine is 28 ounce imbalance. The newer engine will also use a serpentine belt, so you will have to swap the pulleys, front cover, and water pump (reverse rotation on the newer engine). If the firing orders are different, you can accommodate that by changing the spark plug wires.
It is also pretty easy to install the GT40 heads onto your old engine. You may have to get new pushrods if your old heads have stud mounted rockers, as the new heads use sled type rockers.
It is also pretty easy to install the GT40 heads onto your old engine. You may have to get new pushrods if your old heads have stud mounted rockers, as the new heads use sled type rockers.
#3
#5
Forgot about the fuel pump eccentric. But keeping the old front cover will retain the fuel pump mount.
If the GT40 heads came off of a roller block, its pushrods would be too short for your engine with the flat tappet lifters. These heads should flow better than stock 302 heads, so you should expect to see some power gains. Most places advertise about 25 hp. A more aggressive cam should bump that gain as well. But to get significant power boost, the heads should be ported. There the costs start rising fast, so you will have to decide what you want to do.
If the GT40 heads came off of a roller block, its pushrods would be too short for your engine with the flat tappet lifters. These heads should flow better than stock 302 heads, so you should expect to see some power gains. Most places advertise about 25 hp. A more aggressive cam should bump that gain as well. But to get significant power boost, the heads should be ported. There the costs start rising fast, so you will have to decide what you want to do.
#6
Sounds like upgrading to the gt40 heads would provide for a modest gain at a reasonable price; probably less than getting the existing heads inspected and machined. I think this with the cam is the way to go.
So if I call summit or goto my local speed shop, they should be able to help me figure out which pushrods to get?
So if I call summit or goto my local speed shop, they should be able to help me figure out which pushrods to get?
#7
Trending Topics
#8
You can shim the rocker fulcrums so there's a little variance in how long they need to be but the only way to know for sure is to assemble the engine and check the length with a measuring tool. Ideally with checker springs on the valve, then rotate the crank a few times to check the rocker's travel pattern on the valve tip.
#9
The newer engine uses a 50 ounce imbalance on the crank, so will need its own harmonic damper and flywheel. The early engine is 28 ounce imbalance. The newer engine will also use a serpentine belt, so you will have to swap the pulleys, front cover, and water pump (reverse rotation on the newer engine). If the firing orders are different, you can accommodate that by changing the spark plug wires.
It is also pretty easy to install the GT40 heads onto your old engine. You may have to get new pushrods if your old heads have stud mounted rockers, as the new heads use sled type rockers.
It is also pretty easy to install the GT40 heads onto your old engine. You may have to get new pushrods if your old heads have stud mounted rockers, as the new heads use sled type rockers.
#10
To be fair I was thinking along the lines of a late 90's version to get the newest equipment possible; I am not sure I articulated this point all that well. In regards to the early 90's 5.0 in the Vic... Are those heads better than the ones from a mid seventies engine. I was to juice this thing up a little but I want to keep it cheap and simple; having custom pushrods cut is more trouble than its worth. I am pretty sure my block is in good shape so I really dont need to change the entire motor.
#12
To be fair I was thinking along the lines of a late 90's version to get the newest equipment possible; I am not sure I articulated this point all that well. In regards to the early 90's 5.0 in the Vic... Are those heads better than the ones from a mid seventies engine. I was to juice this thing up a little but I want to keep it cheap and simple; having custom pushrods cut is more trouble than its worth. I am pretty sure my block is in good shape so I really dont need to change the entire motor.
#13
One more thing in swapping heads: what you do should take into consideration as to what pistons you now have in your short block (piston top type and compression height), not all flat topped 302 pistons have the same compression height, this varies from 1.585 to 1.620, that translates to a 9-10 cc change in compression volume
#14
#15
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
edognight
Performance & General Engine Building
35
01-11-2020 07:35 PM
SSStang
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
12
04-15-2019 09:26 PM
Rusty_S
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
01-10-2015 08:41 PM
E30tdf
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
13
07-09-2007 01:49 AM
chulsey12
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
3
10-22-2002 09:34 AM