I feel pretty dumb here. My Alternator belt broke, and I've removed the remaining belts, since the alt belt must go on first. but for the life if me can't get the new v belt around the crank pulley. The fan pulley is just too close.

Is there some magic solution I just don't see?

Thanks,
Mark

 

Nevermind... apparently I just needed a beer. It went on much easier after that!

 

they always do. oil lubricates your engine to keep it performing optimally; beer does the same for the mind. Too much oil and it starts churning in the crankcase and the engine slows down. Too much beer... well, you get the idea.

thats why they calling "running dry." lol

 

Golf, billiards, yard work, and working on old trucks just seem to go more smoothly with a beer or two. I like to think of it a "Performance Enhancement Drug".

 

Damn it! I was searching and thought I found the right thread and then the OP solved his own problem. Well, I'll be the dumb one again. I have an FE and i'm trying to anticipate problems, such as bad belts. I'm pretty new to old vehicles, and I don't see a tensioner to replace the v belts. Do I just muscle them on? is there a trick?

I want to take them all off and go to NAPA to get new back up ones in case I need them in a pinch.

thanks,

 

It's the same way with my golf game. Just enough beer helps me relax and hit the ball better. Too much and I get sloppy. So, I keep experimenting to find just the right balance...............

Of course yesterday I was having a brew and working on recurving my distributor. Got it all back together but then the truck wouldn't fire. finally realized the rotor was still sitting on the fender well.

 

Seriously?

The alternator pivots to loosen and tighten the belt.

Crank-water pump- alternator

Crank-power steering seperate belt

Josh

 

The tensioner in your toolbox and doubles as a breaker bar. Belts should deflect about 1/2-inch when depressed moderately at mid-span between the respective pulleys.

A properly sized belt fits within the pulley groove, not protruding or riding on top of it... if it does then it is actually too wide or the pulley too narrow.

 

You didn't specify which engine so this is kinda general.
Alternator-loosen the nut on the slotted adjusting arm, then loosen the bolt that holds the alternator to the block. Push the alternator towards the water pump to loosen the belt.
Power steering-Loosen the three nuts on top of the pump that holds the pump to the bracket. Back off the nut on the outside stud that slides the pump to tension the belt. Push the pump in to loosen the belt.
Factory A/C-Loosen the two bolts on the top idler pulley, one is a pivot bolt and the other is in a slot that allows the idler pulley to swing and tension the belt.
I would suggest you invest in copies of the FACTORY service manuals and parts catalogs. These are available on CD and are invaluable when working on the trucks. I use my copies constantly.

 

Well, he did say an FE engine...

Josh

 

OOPS, that slipped right past me. An FE is what I had in mind when I was writing the instructions.

 

Gotta remember, guys, some of the folks coming here now are young enough that they haven't known vehicles without serpentine belts and spring tensioners. One of my nephews is mystified by the dimmer switch being mounted on the floor. How many here know how to work a floor starter or have even heard of one?

 

You really know how to make me feel old! Thanks a lot!! I not only remember them I had a Buick that had one. Turn the ignition key to "on" and press the gas pedal all the way to the floor, the starter switch was underneath the gas pedal.
But you're right. People that are the under 30 or so crowd have never had to deal with V-belts, carburetors, points, engine mounted fuel pumps, etc.
That's why, when I see a question like that I try to answer it honestly.
All of us were "newbies" at some time in our lives.

 

Thanks for all the help. Mike hit the nail on the head: I'm 30. I understand all the concepts, and even worked at a diesel mechanics shop in my youth, but that was many years ago. Also, while someone may understand concepts, it is sometimes the smallest things, like belts, that give people trouble (think of an engineer who designs versus the mechanic who repairs-things on paper don't always pan out in the "real world").

Nevertheless, I greatly appreciate the help and have already thought about investing in the repair manual and as I was typing this reply I was trying to remember from my youth whether Chilton's or Hayne's was better. IIRC, it's Haynes,, though I'm confident either will work for a newb like me.

Thanks,
Trip

 

In my opinion "Motor" manuals are the best of the aftermarket manuals, but I think the best manuals period! are the factory service manuals. I bought my six volume set on e-bay but they are also available on CD.