My 2003 Excursion 7.3 has been acting "funny" for a couple weeks now where it will just randomly die. It first happened to my wife when revving motor to 1.5k to blow cooler A/C and then letting off the throttle - happened several instances. Also it happened to me when doing a U turn the another day. Now the truck left my wife/kids stranded so they had get another ride home. She was able to restart and drive for a bit - but it just died again. No CEL either. I know its kind of a shot in the dark but that's all I have to go off of now. No recent changes other than warranty alternator replacement. I will investigate it myself later today but wanted to get this out there to the community for any suggestions first. Any ideas?

 

Have you checked the oil level lately?

 

About 500 miles ago. I will check again.

 

Cam position sensor?

I know the 02's had a recall on them, not sure on the 03's.

 

I know mine had the recall done. I've also heard that the old CPS is superior to the new one...? Is there a method to test?

 

The CPS is the weak link on all 7.3L PSD's, not just the '02's.

Do you have a code reader that will read your PSD?

Also, it's not a "method" per se, but I know some have had problems with their rigs shutting down (due to a faulty CPS starting to go out), whenever they drive while the wipers are on. It happened to me.

Also, gonna move this to the 7.3L PSD forum for others to chime it.

Stewart

 

I would look at the harness that connects to the CPS first for any wire chaffing and if thats good then I would buy a CPS from ford and not from a parts store. There are a few CPS out there but the one to get is part number DU-87 from ford.

 

CPS would be my first thought, with the ICP a close second. Unplug the ICP and see if it'll start.

 

Just towed the X home. I found that the problem happens only when warmed up/hot. Once it dies, it will crank and crank, no start. I let it cool for 5 mins, it'll restart, then die 15 secs later. I let it cool for 30 mins, fires right up. Is the DU-87 compatible with a 2003 7.3 as well? I see it specifying 96 only.

 

you try removing the tuner yet?

 

I see a whole bunch of mods that you have done but I don't see a HUTCH mod. Have your removed those pesky in tank strainers yet and maybe replaced the suction foot from your fuel tank???? Remove suction hose from fuel pump, blow compressed air into your tank to remove the gunk from your mixing chamber suction strainers for maybe a minute or so. Put it all back together and cycle the ignition switch a few times to rid the system of the air introduced into the suction line. Will it continue to run now? This is only the temporary fix and you will have to do the mod to get it permanent. Worth the effort especially if you don't have access to Live data from Auto Engunity software.
Dwayne

 

Thanks I am planning on doing the hutch mod as well as regulated return. I'll have to give your idea a shot!

 

I think you need a fuel disconnect tool to get the hose off. I purchased one at napa lately for 8 bucks. It was the scissors type and the size was 3/8 .

 

Yes the DU-87 will work. And right now seems to be the best one out there.

 

So latest update - Had some oil in the ICP plug it so I ended up swapping both icp and cps sensors. Went for a test and have the same issue. Through some more testing it was observed that the alternator gets really effing hot! Is this normal? Found the insulator on the IPR connector melted. Cooled it down with water and was able to restart. It appears the IPR is the issue. Do I just replace the solenoid? Why does it get so hot to the point of failure? Is the connector available also?