1985 F250 6.9l Sterling 10.25" rear axle

A few weeks ago the rear drivers side axle was leaking gear oil under the drum. Removed the old seal and replaced with a new one, FIXED. 60 miles later, same thing. One thing I did notice, bare with me as I describe the best I can. While looking at the back side of the drum there should be an even gap all the way around the drum and the axle. On the side that is leaking the bottom is pinched and the top has twice the gap it should.

truck :: IMAG0107.jpg picture by weezer4117 - Photobucket

truck :: IMAG0107.jpg picture by weezer4117 - Photobucket

The top pic shows the gap at the top and the other shows how it is pinched at the bottom. What would cause this? ALso, when I raise the tire off the ground the gap evens out???? HELP!!!!

 

Are the bearings and races in the hub worn out ? Is the spindle bent ?

 

Bearings looked ok, spindle was not bent....

 

parking break lever eat thought the hub?

if it move at all when jacking the truck up the bearing have to be loose

 

Everything looked ok to me, doesnt mean much, obviously something is wrong. When the truck is off the gound the space will even out but I cannot move the wheel by hand. Anything to look for, nothing was obvious to me the first time....

 

the only things it could really be are bad/loose bearings, loose lug-nuts, and loose backing plate.

on my axle the parking break arm cut down to the seal on the inner hub and popped the seal out.

did you take the hub off to check it?

 

With the wheel off the ground, put a jack under it, and lift the wheel itself "slightly" and observe what happens. It does sound like a bad bearing to me.
Also, try turning the wheel while it's off the ground and listen for unusual noise.

 

The backing plate may not be perfectly centered and it will throw the appearance off but not cause it to leak.

Before any seal replacement I would check your axle breather first, breather tubing, and breather fittings. Many times the fitting gets stuck or clogged with dirt or the tube that is screwed into the axle housing (may hold a brake line block secure) has rusted shut inside and needs to be cleaned or replaced. If your breather is clogged the pressure will build and cause a leak as it heats up.

Since you say there is no bearing movement. If the breathing system is fine check for a wear mark (scored groove) in the hub. A replaced seal at this wear mark will leak 90% of the time. If there is a groove mark you may be able to tap the seal in further so the seal is on the unworn portion of the hub, or you may have to purchase a new seal and not tap it in so far. If you replace the seal to change the position, use silicone at the metal axle mount tube portion (I use it every time because I have seen them leak here before after replacement).

If there is a groove and there is not enough room to move the seal either way you may be able to sand the hub with fine cloth, or purchase a seal and sleeve kit, if available.

(This is just FYI for others since I know it is a new seal) If your seal is old and there is no visible play it just may be rigid enough not to move and cause a leak when a full load is put on the axle .

Clean the brake shoes up with carb or brake clean. Use a little sand paper if they are really soaked.
Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I missed this.....!

Sounds like excessive play in the bearing, a loose hub; or wear somwhere. There sould be no real measureable movement in this area. Sorry

 

thanks yall, I will tear into it in the next few days and report back...

 

should I be able to blow through the breathing tube by mouth? I tried it, wouldnt blow through......

 

yeah. that's a breather. if it can't breathe it will find a way to breathe.

 

All the bearings and even the new seal look fine... now im wondering if its leaking because the breathing tube is clogged?

 

ok fellas... I tore everything apart again. took the newer seal out and all the bearings. everything looked fine, no pitting on the bearings, no score marks or metal shavings anywhere!! cleaned the hub out and all the bearings real good and put a new seal in. Question: how far down should the axle seal go? I used a rubber malot and pounded it in flush with the hub, is that far enough? I did notice with the seal flush the inner bearing was able to move off of the track, to me that was a problem. I dont know how much farther the seal can go "down" but the play in the bearing kinda scared me. I went ahead any put everything back together and took the truck for a 10 mile drive, no leaks. Please advise on the correct placement of the seal. Worst case ill have to take the other side off for a reference but i would rather not do that... Thanks folks

 

Weezer, if your breather is clogged the axle will dump oil through brand new seals as the pressure builds in the housing. You should be able to blow through the breather hose. Some hoses have a check vent like cap that permits pressure out but restricts the flow in. You may have to pull the cap off. Additionally, I have found the metal tube/barb post that is screwed into the axle to be plugged with rust. The breather hose connects to this and I would suggest removing this tube/barb to clean it out so you dont put that debris into your axle housing. Take a wire brush and clean the area before removal and loosen the post/barb and blow air around it to clean the loosened material.

When installing the seal make sure the seal will ride/seal on the smooth/machined portion of the hub or spindle some manufactures have a seated position that you cannot move past and others may be flush but you can go too far, check the manual or eyeball it.

I'm glad you are making progress.