calling all 351cleveland gurus
#1
calling all 351cleveland gurus
Hello everyone.....
I have some questions concerning the 351 cleveland engine. It has the motocraft 2150 carb & is a automatic. I have recently upgraded to the ford electronic igniton.
The previous owner drop this engine into the 1970 f250 I aquired in trade for building my neighbor who owns a tow company a brick oven.
Any way I need to get her thru emissions and I could use some help to get her fine tuned. This is how shes running......
A) start easy just bump ignition and fires right up.(no excessive holding key in start position)
B) slight surgging / does not idle to smoothly in park. In drive it idles a bit smoother. she dont shake violently at idle but little shimmy
C) rev engine and let off gas you can hear her pop thru exhaust. sounds like nascar engine when the decelerate.
D) she has a slight smell of running a tad rich / not head spinning passing out rich but still slight smell.
Now when I got her...the P/O had #1 plug wire in the #5 spot on the dizzy. it ran good/bump ignition start.
When I did elec ign. swap, I TDC #1cyl and installed dizzy
Question time....
1) Did P/O drop in a RV cam and had to ajust dizzy to compensate timming?
2) what carb gasket / spacer do I need that fit between intake & carb.
3) what psi radiator cap does she take. 4 core rad w/ 195deg t-stat
Any info tips or hints are welcome.. I thank you for your time gentelmen, I dont like ride'n dirty.
PS sorry for long post!
I have some questions concerning the 351 cleveland engine. It has the motocraft 2150 carb & is a automatic. I have recently upgraded to the ford electronic igniton.
The previous owner drop this engine into the 1970 f250 I aquired in trade for building my neighbor who owns a tow company a brick oven.
Any way I need to get her thru emissions and I could use some help to get her fine tuned. This is how shes running......
A) start easy just bump ignition and fires right up.(no excessive holding key in start position)
B) slight surgging / does not idle to smoothly in park. In drive it idles a bit smoother. she dont shake violently at idle but little shimmy
C) rev engine and let off gas you can hear her pop thru exhaust. sounds like nascar engine when the decelerate.
D) she has a slight smell of running a tad rich / not head spinning passing out rich but still slight smell.
Now when I got her...the P/O had #1 plug wire in the #5 spot on the dizzy. it ran good/bump ignition start.
When I did elec ign. swap, I TDC #1cyl and installed dizzy
Question time....
1) Did P/O drop in a RV cam and had to ajust dizzy to compensate timming?
2) what carb gasket / spacer do I need that fit between intake & carb.
3) what psi radiator cap does she take. 4 core rad w/ 195deg t-stat
Any info tips or hints are welcome.. I thank you for your time gentelmen, I dont like ride'n dirty.
PS sorry for long post!
#2
Greetings and welcome to FTE!
351C? You sure? Not a 351M? Much more common in PU trucks, much cheaper, much less power.
Anyway:
A--good starting is always good.
B--rough idle. Carb idle adjustment, timing help at all?
C--pop on decel--timing, maybe just your mufflers or lack thereof.
D--rich. Choke working ok? Ever jet it? Float level ok, powervalve replaced--part of a rebuild?
Did the PO put in an RV cam? No one can tell you that with the info given. Can you contact the PO?
Carb gasket and spacer? Billions of Ford 2bbls served, gaskets should be available at any parts place. Spacer? For your PCV or for carb preheat?
What emissions test do you need to pass?
Radiator cap--Stant says 13 psi, sounds good to me.
351C? You sure? Not a 351M? Much more common in PU trucks, much cheaper, much less power.
Anyway:
A--good starting is always good.
B--rough idle. Carb idle adjustment, timing help at all?
C--pop on decel--timing, maybe just your mufflers or lack thereof.
D--rich. Choke working ok? Ever jet it? Float level ok, powervalve replaced--part of a rebuild?
Did the PO put in an RV cam? No one can tell you that with the info given. Can you contact the PO?
Carb gasket and spacer? Billions of Ford 2bbls served, gaskets should be available at any parts place. Spacer? For your PCV or for carb preheat?
What emissions test do you need to pass?
Radiator cap--Stant says 13 psi, sounds good to me.
#3
351M factory installed in 1975/79 Passenger Cars, 1977/79 F100/350's, 1978/82 Bronco's, 1980/82 F150/350's.
2150 carbs intro'd 1975. ALL 1973 and later FoMoCo vehicles have an EGR valve.
The original factory installed EGR/carb spacer plates were aluminum, were notorious for MELTING internally caused by hot exhaust gases.
Replacement plates were cast iron. The spacer to manifold gasket was...at least...10 times thicker than the carb to spacer gasket.
#4
hey thanks for replying.....I have had many a people doubt me about 351M & 351C.
yes it is a 351 cleveland, the mech fuel pump has the inverted bolts & the t stat housing is off to the left side of block (#1-5 cyl side) plus when I replaced the intake manifold gasket do to P/O using rtv silicone on the rubber gaskets that go across the front & back of block
I orderd 351 C gaskets set and they fit. Both P/Os gaskets blew & puked oil all over drive way
As far as 2150 carb it came off my 79 fsj cherokee due to P/O putting a holley 4bbl on a 2bbl intake . The holley was leaking & the bolt holes for adapter had pools of gas. The 2150 is jetted for a AMC 360cid .I know the only diff between 2100 & 2150 is high altitude comp.
The truck was impounded & I got it from neighbor who owns tow company so contacting P/O is not an option unfortunetly.
I had to rob the rad out of my fsj because P/O had some leaky God only knows what yr make model rad w/ 2 elec. fans. Thank God the fsj rad fit perfect w/no mods required.
I did a compression test and all cyls are with in specs & where 130 - 135 psi.
So as you can see....she had some issues to begin with. Some people should not touch electrical either.
The emissons test is at idle & load ( 2000rpm ) I live in Arizona.
If I had a little more cash to deal with....I would swap 351C for the industrial 300cid straight 6.(to me the best engine ford ever designed& built)
On that note I will try the advise as was posted & go from there......I was thinking of the power valve thing too.
If I have any more questions I will surely be back bugging you guys.
Thank you for welcoming me. I glad there is a ford site.
yes it is a 351 cleveland, the mech fuel pump has the inverted bolts & the t stat housing is off to the left side of block (#1-5 cyl side) plus when I replaced the intake manifold gasket do to P/O using rtv silicone on the rubber gaskets that go across the front & back of block
I orderd 351 C gaskets set and they fit. Both P/Os gaskets blew & puked oil all over drive way
As far as 2150 carb it came off my 79 fsj cherokee due to P/O putting a holley 4bbl on a 2bbl intake . The holley was leaking & the bolt holes for adapter had pools of gas. The 2150 is jetted for a AMC 360cid .I know the only diff between 2100 & 2150 is high altitude comp.
The truck was impounded & I got it from neighbor who owns tow company so contacting P/O is not an option unfortunetly.
I had to rob the rad out of my fsj because P/O had some leaky God only knows what yr make model rad w/ 2 elec. fans. Thank God the fsj rad fit perfect w/no mods required.
I did a compression test and all cyls are with in specs & where 130 - 135 psi.
So as you can see....she had some issues to begin with. Some people should not touch electrical either.
The emissons test is at idle & load ( 2000rpm ) I live in Arizona.
If I had a little more cash to deal with....I would swap 351C for the industrial 300cid straight 6.(to me the best engine ford ever designed& built)
On that note I will try the advise as was posted & go from there......I was thinking of the power valve thing too.
If I have any more questions I will surely be back bugging you guys.
Thank you for welcoming me. I glad there is a ford site.
#5
hey thanks for replying.....I have had many a people doubt me about 351M & 351C.
Yes it is a 351 cleveland, the mech fuel pump has the inverted bolts & the t stat housing is off to the left side of block.
This doesn't prove it's a 351C because it's the same as: 1970/82 400, 1975/82 351M. No timing cover per se, just a flat engine cover plate.
Fuel pump bolts to the left (drivers) side of the block using the 6/12 o'clock pattern. Same t/stat location.
As far as 2150 carb it came off my 79 fsj cherokee due to P/O putting a holley 4bbl on a 2bbl intake . The holley was leaking & the bolt holes for adapter had pools of gas. The 2150 is jetted for a AMC 360cid .
I know the only diff between 2100 & 2150 is high altitude comp.
Yes it is a 351 cleveland, the mech fuel pump has the inverted bolts & the t stat housing is off to the left side of block.
This doesn't prove it's a 351C because it's the same as: 1970/82 400, 1975/82 351M. No timing cover per se, just a flat engine cover plate.
Fuel pump bolts to the left (drivers) side of the block using the 6/12 o'clock pattern. Same t/stat location.
As far as 2150 carb it came off my 79 fsj cherokee due to P/O putting a holley 4bbl on a 2bbl intake . The holley was leaking & the bolt holes for adapter had pools of gas. The 2150 is jetted for a AMC 360cid .
I know the only diff between 2100 & 2150 is high altitude comp.
Look on the engine block for the casting number, post what it is.
#6
Im gonna let engine cool down then I will get # off the block.
what is the firing order for the 70/82 400 & 75/82 351m?
would the 2100 be a better carb?
so the 351C intake gaskets would work on above stated yr & cid's engines.
oh another thing is I do not see a EGR valve on intake. why would that be?
forgive me but ford engines are new to me.....now the 1979 AMC casted "K" series 360cid engine is another story. I learned though you do not order a alt for a jeep ....you ask for a alt for a 79 chevy or a jeep ignition module ask for ford ignition mod. Saying Jeep is like saying marine.... just add an extra $25 to price of part.
what is the firing order for the 70/82 400 & 75/82 351m?
would the 2100 be a better carb?
so the 351C intake gaskets would work on above stated yr & cid's engines.
oh another thing is I do not see a EGR valve on intake. why would that be?
forgive me but ford engines are new to me.....now the 1979 AMC casted "K" series 360cid engine is another story. I learned though you do not order a alt for a jeep ....you ask for a alt for a 79 chevy or a jeep ignition module ask for ford ignition mod. Saying Jeep is like saying marine.... just add an extra $25 to price of part.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Well the top rad hose housing goes behind water pump where t-chain cover is.....not into the intake maifold........but what other ford engine is designed that way.
I have'nt had the chance to get engine# yet, work kicked my @$$ today & when I got home, I dozed off for about 2hrs. I have to work tomorrow so I'll try when I get home then.
good night guys, for tomorrow my stucco trowl will be calling my name!
I have'nt had the chance to get engine# yet, work kicked my @$$ today & when I got home, I dozed off for about 2hrs. I have to work tomorrow so I'll try when I get home then.
good night guys, for tomorrow my stucco trowl will be calling my name!
#9
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: North Pole, Alaska
Posts: 2,708
Likes: 0
Received 151 Likes
on
131 Posts
A 351M/400 is identified by the upper radiator hose/t-stat going into the top of the block, and there is an approximately 1 inch metal rib of the block on one side of the distributor.
TMeyer, Inc. Precision Automotive Machining
TMeyer, Inc. Precision Automotive Machining
#10
I was always told about a small number cast into the head by the corner of the valve cover. A "C" will have a 2 or a 4 meaning 2 bbl. heads or 4 bbl. heads. The M engine will be blank or have an M.
I am also thinking you might be mistaking a rich smelling exhaust for the opposite. It's a common mistake. A lean misfire can often make a pungent exhaust that will burn your eyes. Then you can actually have a combination, a few cylinders running real lean and a few running real rich, then it smells like raw gas AND burns your eyes.
The EGR would have been on the original carb spacer. Even though the gaskets are very common, some spacers can have a pretty bad vacuum leak if you don't use the correct gasket.
One of the first things I always do in diagnosing or tuning is get out my trusty vacuum gauge. It can tell you a lot.
I am also thinking you might be mistaking a rich smelling exhaust for the opposite. It's a common mistake. A lean misfire can often make a pungent exhaust that will burn your eyes. Then you can actually have a combination, a few cylinders running real lean and a few running real rich, then it smells like raw gas AND burns your eyes.
The EGR would have been on the original carb spacer. Even though the gaskets are very common, some spacers can have a pretty bad vacuum leak if you don't use the correct gasket.
One of the first things I always do in diagnosing or tuning is get out my trusty vacuum gauge. It can tell you a lot.
#11
I have a 351c in my F-100 as well, mine came from a 73 Cougar. Regarding your question concerning the firing order, are you sure you've laid out the cylinder numbers correctly, because people familiar with Chevy (or any non-Ford engine) sometimes get confused over the way Ford numbered them. It goes like this:
Rear
4 - 8
3 - 7
2 - 6
1 - 5
Front
Otherwise I want to second Willybilly's opinion; a vacuum gauge is so valuable for getting the idle/lean set correctly.
Rear
4 - 8
3 - 7
2 - 6
1 - 5
Front
Otherwise I want to second Willybilly's opinion; a vacuum gauge is so valuable for getting the idle/lean set correctly.
#12
well everyone I rebuilt my carb and put a new power valve in and what do ya know......she purrrs like a kitten now. I also thru on a vac gauge to set carb. No more surgging, no more rich gas smell.
I should be good to go for emmisions on weds.
The cyl are # and firing order is 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
I know what ya mean by confusing the cyl my 79 cherokee is
rear
7 8
5 6
3 4
1 2
front
I'll let you guys know how I make out weds.Thanks for all your input and advise. If I have any other questions reguarding my ford (which I know I will ) I now have a home with plenty of good people to help. Agian thank you.........
I should be good to go for emmisions on weds.
The cyl are # and firing order is 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
I know what ya mean by confusing the cyl my 79 cherokee is
rear
7 8
5 6
3 4
1 2
front
I'll let you guys know how I make out weds.Thanks for all your input and advise. If I have any other questions reguarding my ford (which I know I will ) I now have a home with plenty of good people to help. Agian thank you.........
#14