I have a '95 PSD 2x4 with 245K miles on her. When I bought the truck, I got her for $2100 and knew it had issues. She was neglected by an oil field worker for a long time apparently. I have been getting her back together and every fix I have done has made an improvement. Here is what I have done over the last 2 years and some of the issues I have that I would like to get fixed.

With the cold weather here, I am having the same problem as a lot of people. Hard starts! But, last year I replaced all the glow plugs (6 of them were bad) and replaced the GPR which was bad also. Still had to plug it in if the temp dropped below 50. This year, I did some troubleshooting and decided I had several injectors that were acting up, missing at all rpm ranges, barely running when cold, etc. The injectors I installed are stock so there is no modifications. The truck is running tons better. The day after the install, it was 50 and it started without being plugged in. The night I took it to work (70 miles round trip, 75 mph 60 miles of it) to bleed the air out of the system. That next morning it was 28 degrees outside. Truck started and drove like it should when the systems work as they should. No issues. OK, where is the cold start issues? Right here. I let the truck sit for 2 days, yesterday was 53 degrees outside, went to start her and no start. Cycled the system several times, approximately 6 times and still no start. Plugged her in for about 30 minutes and she fired right up. What else could be causing this type of problem?

When I change the oil, I also drain the HPOP and change that oil also. I know some people say that is a snake oil fix, but it has made a difference on this truck when it comes to starting issues.

I checked the fuel pressure and when it was cold and running, it was 40 psi. When it was at operation temp, it bounced between 45 - 55 psi. Also had a leak on the filter cap. Got 1/8 of a turn on the cap to tighten it. Haven't check to see if it stopped the leak yet. These pressures seem low, what should they be? Has anyone done the "BB" trick to help a failing regulator? Could that be a fix for my low pressure until I can save for the proper parts?

Could a faulty/plugged IPR be causing these hard starts?

Open to any suggestions, comments, questions, etc. and would like to get this fixed.

Another issue... Brake pedal bleed down. The brakes will start off good and do great for normal driving, but if I press hard on the pedal, it will bleed down. It's almost like a timed reaction also. It will hold for a few seconds and then start to bleed off. I have never waited to see if I loose all braking power.
I have read that this is a common problem but have heard several fixes and none of them are cheap. I have put a new system on the truck. Being able to stop is just as important as being able to go. Here is what I have replaced:
Vacuum pump
master cylinder
brake booster (Auto parts store brand, have been told a zero loss is what I need?)
front steel lines
all 3 rubber lines (2 front and 1 rear)
front calipers and pads
Rear pistons and shoes
I have also removed the ABS for the rear brakes from the system and is no longer hooked into the hydraulic part of the system

Both these issues aren't real big problems, but would like to get them fixed.

Open to all comments. Please help.

 

Do you have any smoke out of the tailpipe when cranking and its not starting?

I was gonna say booster or vaccuum pump for the brakes, but you replaced them. Still could be one of them, wait for more comments on that, I'm not sure.

 

The vacuum pump was showing lower vacuum (5" less than optimal) than what it should be and that is why I replaced it. That was the second thing I replaced. With the Booster, I have read about a zero loss booster that is only available thru Ford. It's roughly $200 and I can deal with the bleed off if that is the only option to fix it.

Thanks for the replies and anyone just throwing ideas out might just throw one I haven't heard before.

Keep 'em coming!

 

First thing to try for soft brake pedal is adjusting rear brakes. Jack up one side at a time. Leave wheels on. Adjust with a brake spoon or screwdriver through the slot on the inside of backer plate. Adjust till you feel slight drag. Do same to both sides. See if this doesn't help.

 

I did this also. About a month ago I had to replace a parking brake cable and checked the adjustment while I was there. They were a little out so I got them corrected. I then hauled my 28' pontoon and didn't have any conditions while normal driving, but if I applied hard pressure to the brakes, it would wait a second (or 2) and then bleed down.

I have been told several possible causes for this, but haven't been convinced yet.
1. A large bore master cylinder is required for this truck. I'm not sold on this because all the bore size would do is push more fluid thru the system faster. Unless the seals are bypassing, it shouldn't bleed down no matter what the bore size is.
2. There is a Ford part "Zero Loss Booster" which is supposed to fix this issue. Apparently I'm not the only one that has had this issue. But, for $200+ for the part that is only available thru Ford, I can deal with the bleed off.

Like I said, it doesn't affect normal driving, but I do know it does it and it shouldn't.

Thanks again for the input.

 

That is very tipical of bad master.period.brake repair 101. If u hold tight it will prob stay.but once stopped if u let up a bit on pressure and back hard several times you prob can work it to the floor.

 

I did replace the master cyclinder twice. It was the first thing I replaced when I went to fix this issue. Every other MC that I've had go bad did this exact same thing. The only thing that is different with this bleed down is that it is delayed, almost like it's a controlled release. Very strange.

Also, it bleeds off only under hard pushing. Doesn't bleed off if I let up on the pressure.

The reason why I replaced it twice? The first time I bought a reman and thought maybe I got a bad reman and took it back. Like you said, Brakes 101. The second one I paid more and bought new with a lifetime warranty. Considering the problem didn't change between the 3 master cylinders, it was hard to believe that was not the problem, but moved on.

Keep the ideas coming. Greatly appreciated

Any ideas on the cold start issues?

 

Ford Diesel Glow Plug Relay 6 9 and 7 3 Powerstroke | eBay
Here is a link for a good GPR.
I would change it with this one as most GPR's are junk even when purchased from Ford.

I have done the FPR shim (BB mod). It worked great on my truck. The most important thing is not to exceed 75 PSI. The mod is easy to do.

 

Hey 95, I see you did the 140 mod. How do you like that and what did it do to your EGT's? I just recently seen this mod and it would be cheaper than a 6 position switch, of course the options are more limited also.

 

I like the 140 mod, but it is not in place of a chip. I honestly don't know what my EGT's are though.

 

What kind of gains did you get with the 140? performance? pulling power? Better idle and acceleration? I've heard all kinds of various outcomes.
Would just like to do my research defore I do it.

 

I did it 2 years ago so I don't recall what improvement I received. Seat of the pants though I am sure. It was an easy mod as well. You must be able to solder well though.

 

Considering that I am considering doing this mod, what is your convincing points to show me the mod is worth the time. With these 7.3's nothing comes cheap and that is why I question "Cheap" mods are worth the risks.

My main concern is that the damage is greater than the upgrade. Since you've had it for 2 years says alot. I have heard alot of good thing about this mod, but what are the cons?

OK, things have gotten off track!Love to talk mods, but still have stock issues with my truck. lol

Would stil like to know more on the 140 mod

 

Where are you located? If you are close I will do it for you. If not, mail it to me and I will do it for you still.

 

I believe the mod holds the injectors open longer allowing more fuel to be injected.