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Trans pops out of OD

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Old 08-14-2012, 08:40 PM
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Trans pops out of OD

I took my truck through an automated carwash a few weeks back. Immediately after leaving the carwash, the <acronym title="Over Drive">OD</acronym> light was flashing, and she kept jumping out of <acronym title="Over Drive">OD</acronym> down to 3rd, back in to <acronym title="Over Drive">OD</acronym>, back out... ping pong ping pong.

Note that before this I had ZERO issues with the transmission.

So, the other day a fellow 'stroker was extremely generous and came to my house with his <acronym title="Auto Enginuity Software">AE</acronym> and ran some tests. Below are the codes that were pulled.

Note that I have unplugged that <acronym title="Air Intake Heater">AIH</acronym> so I think P0541 can be ignored.
I did the recall myself for the cruise control sensor that mounts to the brake master cylinder with the new sensor, not just the "fix it harness"
My cruise control works perfectly as well.

P0220
P0541
P0565
P0566
P0567
P0568
P0569
P0571
P0605
P0703
P1536

I started a thread on another forum but wanted to start this one here with my results in case someone is only here and not over "there"...

So, I *think* I found my issue. I took the connector off the passenger side sensor (no idea what that one does) and it had junk inside. I cleaned out the goo and when trying to snap it back down... it wouldn't go. The piece that snaps in place to keep it sealed looked to be unable to secure it. Of course trying to get it flexed back in place broke it off completely. Awesome. So, now I need a new connector end to replace the busted one.

Anyone know of an online set of schematics with part numbers?

UPDATE: Looks like this is such a common problem that there is a repair kit: Part# 36445EAK

I ordered the repair kit from MTS Diesel Performance Parts, a division of Midwest Transmission Supply. I spoke to John (ext. 20) and he was incredibly helpful. They normally don't ship via USPS but since I was getting such a small part and I asked for it, they were able to accomodate me.

Best Price I found
Awesome customer service

I hope I don't need tranny work any time soon, but for anyone looking for this part, these are the guys to buy from <acronym title="In My Opinion">IMO</acronym>.

http://www.mts-diesel.com/product_in...roducts_id=360


I also ordered a tool to remove the pins from the existing connector since my wires seem to be in fine shape. If all checks out then I'm simply going to swap the wires from the old busted connector in to the new one. If things don't check out, then I'll do splice in the new one.

Parts should be at the house by Friday evening, but hopefully Thursday will be the day I get it all. I'll update with how things go and will try and get pics up too.
 
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:21 AM
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I received the parts and swapped out the plug end since my wires looked fine. That part went fine, but didn't resolve my issue. Now I started getting a constantly blinking OD light.

Yesterday I dropped the pan and removed the solenoid pack and found lots of crud in the bottom of the connector. I cleaned that out and the pins were shiny - looked brand new pretty much. Put it all back together and still the constantly blinking OD light, and the trans was shifting pretty hard.

Also since replacing the plug end, right after starting the truck, she starts normally, then after 1 or 2 seconds of running, the RPMs drop just a bit. Like it starts in "default" mode and then when some sensor doesn't respond, it causes the drop in RPMs.
 
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:40 AM
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I had my wires in the shifting leaver short out,and I just lost over drive that way.

I hate electrical probs. Bump for the cause!

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/dtc.php The 605 ICM ROM error? Help me out also,does this control the trans?

http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...mb=lBXfqgxI1fU

No Part numbers,Sorry.
 
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by papadelogan
I also ordered a tool to remove the pins from the existing connector since my wires seem to be in fine shape.
Tool?

Pics? Link?

Stewart
 
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:39 PM
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Hey Stewart, the tool I ordered wasn't needed to pop the pins out, just a straight pick.

The repair plugs I got just would not click and lock in to place so I ended up getting the Ford replacement plug. For reference if you want to get one the part# is 3U2Z-14S411-VCA and here is a pic of the contents of the package:




NOTE: OEM wire size was 16/18 AWG; this kit uses 14AWG wires.

Do your best to stagger your splices because with the thickness of the kit wires, you may have trouble getting all the wires back in to the loom.

I was hoping to just swap the wires to the new plug, but I honestly believe the problem I had became two-fold:

1. Failing solenoid pack
2. Corroded pins in the plug

To finally fix my issue then required the following:

1. Replacement solenoid pack
2. Soldering in good wiring attached to a new plug

I've driven her around for a couple hours now and no issues so far. Before winter hits I'm going to do a few more things to help waterproof this connection. Thoughts currently are things like adding a 2nd row of split loom (bigger than the original to wrap around), some vaseline or maybe just candle-wax to seal out water from the loom. Throw some ideas at me guys!
 
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:25 PM
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My blinking OD issue is back. I live in South Carolina now and have no idea about the community here. It'd be nice to be able to borrow an AE, but I may (finally) bite the bullet and buy one. Trans fluid is maybe a little high, but still clean and still good color, with no burnt smell whatsoever.

Any one in or near the Spartanburg, SC area with AE that could help out, please PM me ASAP. Thanks!
 
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Old 03-26-2018, 05:40 PM
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I've bought my own AE and scanned for codes. Here's what I have:

All codes retrieved in KOEO

GEM / Central Timer
B1352 Ignition Key in Circuit Fault -- Key in the ignition chime; i have purposely disconnected as I find it annoying
B1438 Wiper Mode Select Switch Circuit Failure
B1450 Wiper Wash/Delay Switch Circuit Failure

Overhead Trip Computer
B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Failure or Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Battery or Passenger Active Head Restraint -- Likely due to Gentex mirror install; will rewire, clear code
B1342 ECU Internal fault -- Likely due to Gentex mirror install; will rewire, clear code

Enhanced Powertrain
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P1746 Pressure Control Solenoid A Open Circuit
P1747 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low -- Intake Air Heater unplugged; known issue


The Overhead Trip Computer (OTC) codes are probably from when I installed a Gentex rearview mirror and tapped in to the power leads for the OTC. Lazy, and will be fixed in the next few days. My main concern is the last 4 codes under the "Enhanced Powertrain" section. I'll be digging for information on all the codes but would definitely appreciate any input\experience\Kovalsky-isms!!
 
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Old 03-26-2018, 06:12 PM
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You have four electrical circuit codes. That points to a damaged wiring harness. I don't know just where that would be, but when there are multiple electrical codes it's almost always the wiring.
 
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Old 03-26-2018, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
You have four electrical circuit codes. That points to a damaged wiring harness. I don't know just where that would be, but when there are multiple electrical codes it's almost always the wiring.
I repaired the plug that connects to the solenoid pack about 6 years ago with the Ford repair kit. Looks like I probably need to do that again, and look for any other breaks, cracked insulation, or other damage.

Mark - as always, thank you for your input. I'd like to know which 4 codes you are referencing. Is it the 4 listed here:

P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P1746 Pressure Control Solenoid A Open Circuit
P1747 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low
 
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Old 03-26-2018, 08:04 PM
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Yes, all four of those are electrical circuit fault codes.
 
  #11  
Old 03-31-2018, 04:51 PM
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I managed to source a wiring harness for the transmission today. It's from a SuperDuty with a 5.4 so I don't plan to just try and plug it in, but if I can figure out which pins I need to check & repair, I'll try to just pull the entire wire out and swap it in to my harness. Once I have that info, I'll probably pull the harness from my truck so I can do the repair work inside the house. I'm sure I'll need a new tube (tub?) of dielectric grease so that when I put it all back together, it is protected.

Does anyone either 1) have the details about the pins in the solenoid pack and where they connect, or 2) can point me to a (potential) source for that information? Thanks all!!
 
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Old 04-14-2018, 03:52 PM
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I have resolved my transmission issues!!

Here is what I did:

1. Bought AutoEnginuity so I could scan codes. Finally. Why I waited 10 years after buying the truck... dumb.
2. Used the junkyard harness I picked up to replace the previous repair I did on that same plug. This time, I disconnected the TRS & both TSS sensors as well so that I had much more slack and could pull the harness over the driver's side of the trans. I was able to do much better solder work and then covered with heat shrink. Also staggered the solder joints better.
3. Swapped out the solenoid pack for one I tested prior to installation (pin test for expected ohms/resistance)
4. Replaced trans filter
5. Replaced 2.5 gallons of trans fluid with new Valvoline MaxLife fully synthetic ATF. (full flush coming soon, with installation of Derale thermostat)
6. Replaced trans shift lever, shift tube in the steering column assembly, and the bushings.
7. Continuity tested from the solenoid block pins to the PCM plug
8. Bought 1 year subscription to AllDataDIY.com so I could obtain & print out wiring, power distribution, and connector diagrams. ( If anyone needs anything for a 1999 F250 7.3 4x4, PM me and I'll try to get it to you ASAP )

I'm not sure the new solenoid pack made a difference, but I do believe my previous solder work was at least the major part of the issue. I have the old solenoid pack draining and will do the ohm/pin test once it's a little less goopy. I've driven her a bit (~10 miles) and she shifts smoothly, has the power back that was missing, and no more blinking OD light. Previously the issues would show up in the first mile or two. I'll still be looking around to get a spare PCM, and other parts that are getting harder to find. Maybe even a spare 4R100 with a clean case, if I can find one.
 
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