Its getting worse. Noticed it a month or so ago, very slight ticking noise when the engine was cold. It would go away after a minute or two when the engine warmed up. Kinda sounded like a lifter ticking type noise when low on oil but I was not low on oil.

Now its getting more noticeable and it doesnt go away. Very noticeable when I take off or accelerate. less noticeable when I take my foot off the gas but its still there.

Anyone know what it might be? I am pretty newbish about engines and I dont want some repair outfit telling me I need a rebuilt engine if all I need is to tighten my manifold or something. Because that would be my luck.

2000, XLT, 5 Liter V8, 178K miles.

 

BUMP!

Cmon guys! someone has got to have an opinion. Sounds like passenger side valve tap or something.

I am more than willing to try to pull the rocker arm cover off if anyone is willing to tell me how to check "things" out to determine the cause of the noise.

Thanks in advance,

littlescrapper

2000 Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 AWD
178K miles

 

Use a stethoscope and localize the sound. ...Philip

 

$10 at the local AutoZone. Maybe I should invest in one.

Where can I find a good step by step tutorial on how to "properly" disassemble my motor to get at the rocker arms/pushrod/lifters or whatever the hell might be causing the noise? Or hell even a good diagram of the motor. So far I can only find cartoonish looking drawing of the motor.

If I can be relatively certain I can open it, fix the issue, and reassemble it, I would try. Otherwise...not gonna try.

 

FIXED! Thought I would check back in to let you all know the problem was probably just the exhaust manifold gasket. I replaced the passenger side manifold just in case but dont see anything wrong with the manifold so it was certainly just a gasket. But, no more ticking.

What a PITA!! The manifold bolts were no problem just go through the wheel well. However, Trying to get at the far side bolt that connects the manifolds flange to the exhaust/catalytic system was rediculous. OMG only way to get to IT was to use a short 3/8 wratchet. No leverage with the 3/8, but 1/2 wratchet wouldnt fit. Used a combination of 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, then back to 3/8 with a short socket. Only combination that put the wratchet in the one spot where I could actually get it to move enough to CLICK ONCE. Than had to use a 18" breaker bar for leverage and took it out one click at a time. PITA!

Next issue was the fitting that hold the EGR pipe to the top of the manifold. Only way to loosen it was I had to use a large adjustable wrench. Put the wrench in place, brace myself by holding onto the suspension with my left arm, using right arm, do a straight arm push on the wrench while pulling with left arm on suspension to get extra grunt!. Took about 6-8 full power grunts to finally crack it loose. And I am q pretty strong guy at 6'4" 230. I couldnt believe how much force and how many times I had to apply that force to crack that thing loose. And that was after letting it soak with the WD40. once I got it loose and used big wrench to move it back and fourth to loosen it up I had to switch to a smaller wrench. Smaller wrench = no leverage. But, it allowed enough movement that I could then flip it around and move it a little bit more. Once I got it moving it still took abot 10-15 minutes of wrench flipping to get it off.

After that it was a piece of cake. Hade everything reinstalled and truck back on the ground in about an hour.

Ohh Yea I just used a Dorman manifold kit for $56.99. Took all day but beats the hell out of paying the shop $400

 

EDIT: Bump

I edited previous responce with update but I guess that doesnt bumb to this is the bump for that post.