Does the v10 really require 27 liters of coolant?! I'm getting ready to do a coolant flush and just about swallowed my tongue when I read that. Here in Canada, 7 jugs of coolant is $100. Wow.

Maybe it's been too long since I last did a flush on a vehicle but I really don't ever remember needing to buy anywhere near that much for my old tbi 350.

 

Remember, it's a 2:1 mix - so you'd only need 3.5 gallons of 100% coolant. If it's already a 50/50 mix at $100 for all of it, well, I understand your pain

I don't really know what it takes, I don't think my '01 takes that much. Although, now that I think about it, 3.5 jugs of coolant sounds about right the last time I did it.

What year is your truck?

 

Its an 01 like yours. For some reason my sig has vanished. Hmmm...

 

Whats the best way to flush or just change the coolant in a 2V V10.

Denny

 

I know it's probably the WRONG way to do it, environmentally, but ... I pull the thermostat out, leave the t-stat housing off, pull the rear heater hose from the intake, open the radiator drain, and let it drain all the way out.

Put the garden hose in the radiator overflow bottle, and start water flowing with everything open even the radiator drain. Eventually it runs clear out the t-stat hole and the back of the intake. Pull the front heater hose, and flush the heater core. If you have a vacuum-actuated heater core valve, open it with a hand-vacuum-pump.

Put the t-stat housing back on without the thermostat, put the heater hoses back on the intake, and start the engine. With the hose still running, and the radiator drain wide open. Keep an eye on the radiator drain and see if it runs clear - if it doesn't, turn off the engine, pull a heater hose, let the block fully drain again, and repeat. Keep draining and running the hose. At this point, the block is usually full of plain water, so it'll be clear anyway...

Once it's all running clear, turn off the engine, and let the radiator completely drain again, and whatever runs out of the block. Pull the t-stat housing.

Once the radiator drain stops flowing, shut it. Using HALF of the capacity of the cooling system, put that much 100% coolant into the radiator. If it happens to overflow out the t-stat or heater hose connection, keep an eye on how much 100% coolant you already put in. Put everything back together, w/thermostat installed, and start the engine. Keep adding 100% coolant until you have half the system capacity of 100% coolant in. After that, add fresh water until the system is full.

The way I do this is Bad... for the ground where you're doing this. I use Propylene Glycol coolant, because I get if from a family member who has a wholesale marine parts warehouse, so it's not so bad draining it on the ground. For those who are using Ethylene Glycol, trap and dispose of all the straight coolant you can.

But, doing it this way gets almost exactly a 50/50 mix without having to pull the block drains.

Of course, if you CAN pull the block drains, this is probably better overall

 

This is basically what I did on mine and it works very well.

6.0 SYSTEM FLUSH - YouTube

I also modified an old degas bottle cap with a hose fitting to flush the system with the engine running. The flushing cap keeps the engine from getting all wet.



I bought 4 gallons (paid $16 per gal) of Motorcraft Gold coolant and 8 gallons of distilled water and had plenty left of both. I used a little over 3.5 gallons of coolant until I got the mix to where I wanted it. I would recommend flushing the entire system good and switching over to the Motorcraft Gold coolant, it lasts longer and protects better than green.