I would like to say hello and to say that this site is awesome. With that out of the way I have a few questions about a 1947 truck I inherited.

I believe that this truck is a 1-ton, having 17" rims and the 5X6 7/8" bolt pattern. I know there is a serial number on the motor and trans. but it may have been swapped out long ago. Is there another place to look for I.D. of truck? Data plate in glovebox doesn't say much.

I also believe the truck was ordered from factory without a bed but it has a DeKalb stake bed on it(possible dealer option).

Also trying to figure out the weight of the truck less motor and transmission. Basically I have it prepped for towing from WI. to ND., it's down to a rolling chasis with cab and metal frame of stakebed. I'm thinking the weight should be about 2500 as it sits.

The motor and trans I'm going to rebuild this fall and winter, and hoping to tow truck next spring to start restoration(not show finish but a driveable restore).

Thanks,
Mike

 

The S/N is on top of the frame on the driver's side, not too far from the steering column. There is usually a tag screwed to the firewall with S/N, paint and trim info as well. With 17 in. rims it should ID 3/4 or 1 ton. My guess is 1 ton but I can look up some more info and get back to you. The engine number is on the bell housing adjacent to the oil pressure switch if the engine is original or has been swapped out of another vehicle. Replacement blocks most often didn't get stamped. You likely have a 59 AB even though the heads of that vintage may have 69A cast on them. I have a couple of engines with those casting numbers. If you've got the engine/trans out and the wood out of the deck, you're likely around the 2000lb mark. There isn't much to them with the engine out. Good luck on your restoration!

 

I'm glad I went and checked my references. Your truck would be a 1 ton as a 3/4 ton was more of a reference as there was no significant difference between them. One source says that the 3/4 ton would have 7.00-750 x 16 tires but I could find no such offering one the option sheets until the '48 models came out. If your truck has a 6 cyl. engine the VIN would have a 7GY; if it has a V8 it would be a 79Y.

 

Thanks for the info. The engine that currently is with the truck is a v8, I remember seeing the number 59 on the heads. But like I said not sure if it is original. I'll know more when I pick up the motor after the 20th of this month.

 

Mike, welcome to the site. Sounds like quite a fun project ahead of you. From the information you've provided you have a 1 ton truck, with the non-Ford bed it was most likely bought as a cab chassis model from Ford, so the buyer could add whatever body they chose. There is no 3/4 ton after the War until the introduction of the F series in '48. Serial number will be stamped on the frame, around the area of the steering box. The number will start and end with a star. US made trucks do not have a plate on the firewall with any information about the truck. The only plate you'll find is the patent plate, which gives no info about the truck, they are the same on all Fords for the era. Good luck with your truck, post the number when you and we can break it down for you.

 

Well, I finally got it back home. Decided to tow the whole works instead of making separate trips. It appears that the transmission is original to the truck. Trans. number matches frame number---*799 Y(it shows a backwards Y) I579355*. The motor bellhousing number is 59 with K-48 1: stamped above it. The motor however is a complete disaster. The heads appear not to be cracked just need a good clean up. Intake looks good too. Pretty much all pistons are stuck as well as 2 valves, 1 broken valve. Pulled the caps on the connecting rods except for 2, can't get to 2 of the nuts. Loosened the main bearing caps for now but nothing moves. The camshaft from what I can see may have to be replaced due to seeing some flaking rust spots on the lubes, might be able to buff it up with some steel wool maybe. Pretty sure most of the lifters are stuck too. Need a good recommendation for fluid to dump into the cylinders to help free up the pistons, their the only thing holding me back from getting the crankshaft out.

 

Here's some pictures for everyone.

 

STELLA1

Here are a couple of pics on some detail and what your truck looked like in a brochure.

 

That's quite a mess in those cylinders but I've seen something similar to that in the past. I'm sure that everyone who drops by this site will have some formula that works, however, my choice is Nut Kracker. What I do first is to clean up the cylinders the best I can, even (carefully) using a sandblaster to remove the rust. Clean all the residue out and soak it down. To take the crank out, try tapping out the conrod studs; that should help get it free. Then you've got room to work.
For real obstinate stuck cylinders, make sure that the valves are seated, use an old (useable) head gasket which is torqued into place. Fill the cylinder with old oil then make an adapter out of a piece of rod with the spark plug thread milled at one end, drill a hole through the center and tap in a 1/8 NPT fitting at the other. Thread a good Lincoln grease gun (or equivilant) onto the adapter and start pumping. A grease gun can push up to 3000 psi which is more than a match for (most) stuck pistons.
I've unstuck large bore tractor engines with cast iron pistons that way and it works 90% of the time. Only drawback is draining that old oil out of the cylinder without making a mess.

 

Well got some headway today. Got some PB blaster and soaked down the cylinders. Got the pistons to budge a little. Ground off the ridge at the top of the cylinders using a dremel. A couple of the cylinders have what appears to be aluminum smeared on the walls, it turned to a powdery mess when I used a wire wheel attachment on my drill. Trying to clean up as much of the cylinder walls above the pistons as I will have to push them up and out the top. 2 of the connecting rod caps I can't remove as I can't get to 2 separate nuts as they are too close to the block to get a socket on or even a wrench, which slides off. Having that crank in the way makes for a real pain in the butt.
For now I'm just going to let the cylinders soak for a day or 2 since it's going to be almost 100 degrees out for the foreseeable future. A little too hot to be banging away in the garage.

 

Thanks for the pics 5Star.

 

Using a grease gun to free a piston as you described is something I never would have thought of. Pretty slick.

A friend helped me with a 21 stud V-8 that was stuck. He has an old tire iron that is bent just right to fit in through the starter opening and engage the teeth on the flywheel. Alternating between forward and backward pressure, it started to move very slightly and then a little more, until it finally was moving.


Tom

 

Just be carefull you don't strip either timming gear or snap the cam. If it does move you will most likely bend valves as well.

Just the look of that engine I would almost bet the pistons are junk, and if the block is good then I would just turn the engine upside down and knock the pistons out with a 2 x 2 piece of wood. The cylinders will have to be bored for sure which ever way you go.

Then again you just might get lucky with the grease gun method