my first post & need advice buying? 1979 f150 4x4
#1
my first post & need advice buying? 1979 f150 4x4
Hello all. I have always been a chevy man, but I have always loved
78 - 79 f250. I have found a f150 4x4 that is in nice shape & would like to get. Besides the 250 being a 3/4 ton and 150 being 1/2 ton. Are there other differences. When looking at the 150 what things should I be looking for? Just not sure what to look for being this would be my first ford
thanks for the help
78 - 79 f250. I have found a f150 4x4 that is in nice shape & would like to get. Besides the 250 being a 3/4 ton and 150 being 1/2 ton. Are there other differences. When looking at the 150 what things should I be looking for? Just not sure what to look for being this would be my first ford
thanks for the help
#2
RUST! Ford nary used a toothpaste tube's worth of seam sealer on these rigs. Common spots include: Roof rails, rear wheel arches, air vent bowls, cab mounts, cab corners, floor pans, and door corners.
Personally I am not a fan of the 351M/400 engines - crummy aftermarket support in terms of high performance internal engine parts. But a 460 will fit without too much hassle and it has really good aftermarket goodies.
Btw, 78-79s use the more desirable T-style steering which is better than the 76-77 Y-style steering. Other than that, fire up every system and evaluate whether everything works... watch out for dubious "repairs" by previous owners.
Personally I am not a fan of the 351M/400 engines - crummy aftermarket support in terms of high performance internal engine parts. But a 460 will fit without too much hassle and it has really good aftermarket goodies.
Btw, 78-79s use the more desirable T-style steering which is better than the 76-77 Y-style steering. Other than that, fire up every system and evaluate whether everything works... watch out for dubious "repairs" by previous owners.
#3
The other differences would be dana 60 rear for f250, 9 in and dana 44 up front for 1/2 ton, obviously suspension, less lugs, coil springs up front, instead of leafs. Things like that, many will say bad about 351m/400, (they are a tall deck Cleveland basically)!but they actually good engines. Everyone always thinks its gotta be a 460 or nothin it seems lol. Put headers, dual exhaust, alum intake, small 4 barrel carb, aftermarket timing set, and maybe a blaster coul on these engines and it will really wake them up! Good luck on the buy.
#4
They never came from the factory with a 460 so if it does have a 460 someone did a 460 conversion at some point. 351M/400s are not bad engines (I have one and its not my favorite) but you can build one up pretty decent. The truck from factory either had a 300 I6, 351M ,or 400. With the V8s I would be sure to check for good oil pressure, unless you plan on a immediate rebuild.
#5
I've owned 2 351m powered trucks and they are fine motors for what they are IMHO, nothing spectacular but nothing Detroit was offering in 1979 was. The '76-'77 steering is less desirable than the later version but its far superior than the '73-'75 IMO again. If I had it to do over I'd be looking for one with a 300 six
#7
Good pictures would be helpful as far as what we can try to see on the exterior. Other than that, it's up to you to determine how everything is mechanically. It's always a gamble when purchasing these old trucks. You could buy it and drive 100,000 miles and have few problems. On the other hand, you could blow the motor on the way home. Just hard to tell unless you rebuild the motor and see whats inside. Its the same with rust, there are so many spots that are prone to rust. Make sure it isn't just full on bondo, etc.
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#8
They biggest difference between the F-150 4x4 and F-250 4x4s is that the 250s use leafs in the front and the 150s use coils, I like the leafs better because they are stronger, however, the coils handle and ride better. The rear quarter panels are the most prone to rust on these trucks, next would be the cab corners, and believe it or not, the front corners of the hood were prone to rust also. Drip rails and the bottom of the doors are also places to check out. My 79 Ford has WAY less rust then my cousins 79 Chevy, but it all depends on how the truck was maintained.
#10
The 6 was available all years. the 360 and 390 FE was replaced in '77 with the inferior 351 and 400.
I agree that rust is priority one on any vehicle. the Fords are absolutely less rust prone than the GM products but look in the same places. never forget restored means lots of things, I won't buy a rig with paint that's not at least 5 years old unless I can see pictures before or during the restoration. bondo doesn't fix rust it only temporarily hides it.
The steering on the later dent side 1/2 tons is as good as it gets. there is no advantage whatsoever in the f250. if the f150 you're looking at is a long box it's less desirable than an a 78-79 f250, if it's a short box it's more desirable than any post 76 f250.
I agree that rust is priority one on any vehicle. the Fords are absolutely less rust prone than the GM products but look in the same places. never forget restored means lots of things, I won't buy a rig with paint that's not at least 5 years old unless I can see pictures before or during the restoration. bondo doesn't fix rust it only temporarily hides it.
The steering on the later dent side 1/2 tons is as good as it gets. there is no advantage whatsoever in the f250. if the f150 you're looking at is a long box it's less desirable than an a 78-79 f250, if it's a short box it's more desirable than any post 76 f250.
#11
When I see a restored vehicle the antennas go up. Not many folks do things the right way and unless you get lucky and buy a restored truck from someone who is skilled and pays attention to detail and don't take shortcuts you'll end up with a myriad of issues you will have to resolve over time. Though I have not experienced it myself I have spent hours researching this site before I bought my truck and learned much of the reproduction sheet metal leaves a lot to be desired (too thin and dents easy) so if a vehicle was restored, try to find out how much reproduction sheet metal is in it as well as looking at everything closer.
HIO Silvers comment "fire up every system and evaluate whether everything works... watch out for dubious "repairs" by previous owners" can't be emphasized enough. I have experienced more than my share of hack jobs by a previous owner I had to straighten out over the years. Nothing worse than trying to figure out problems caused by the inexperienced.
Remember this - "Buy Once, Cry Once, The quality remains long after the price is forgotten"
OH! Congratulations on preparing to move over to Ford from Chevy! These 70s Fords have great styling that won't go out of style anytime soon
#12