After reading this thread just now I decided to open up my ecu and check the caps. I have been having some random driveability issues that I blamed on the motor/sensors just being old and tired. When I popped the case open I found one cap leaked bad, another just starting to spew and one still good.

Kinda glad this thread got bumped. Otherwise, I would not have checked the ecu. Even though I had the same issue(leaking capacitors) eventually kill the ecu in my toyota.

 

at least that was the issue with yours, as my ECU looked near new...

 

Just a quick question to help me get a feel your last post said accell injectors just curious as to what lb/hr injectors u installed as anything other than 12 lb/hr injectors will require an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and some tuning to make it driveable with the proprietary computer program that these engines use so im just curious as i upped injectors size in my 300 and had to tune for driveability.

 

Very good inquisition to try and help zstangkrewson with his truck problems.
That tidbit of information may explain everything.

Bob

 

Good on you for doing some reading and applying it to resolve your issues.

Bob

 

Alright zstangkrewson, let's put some of your information together and see what it adds up to.

You had/have mentioned these things:

it was running fine then, BAM started running like crap...
to me it seems to be super lean....
shop said their computer told them the egr was stuck open
i went after the other part that came up on the computer scan, the MAP
i found that if I remove the brake booster vacuum line, and cover most of the hole, it idles like nothing is wrong....
"what type of problem is the result of a vacuum leak making an engine run smoother?"
is there a stupid reason why my engine would needs massive amounts of vacum???
there was ALOT of air sucking from that vacuum, is that normal????
and the mechanic told me i had a vacuum leak, so i looked over the vacuum diagram, and apparently almost all of my vacuum were in hte wrong places. so i rerouted everything, and now they are where they need to be
is it possible the way the vacuum was before was fine????

The commonality with all of the above statements/sympotms is a vacuum problem.

I'd revisit the vacuum system in your truck making sure that all of the vacuum "check valves" are oriented correctly and work correctly, EVR solenoid vacuum lines oriented correctly, vacuum source from the "coffee can" oriented correctly, and that the "coffee can" canister holds vacuum AND check the EVR soleniod to make sure it's diaphram hasn't been ruptured because of a reversed vacuum source.

maybe i should keep going with adjusting the distributor by ear????

I'd say once the "vacuum system" is operating correctly, you should re-time the the motor with a timing light.

See what happens.

Oh, and good on you for ELIMINATING THE POSSIBILITY OF A BAD COMPUTER.

Bob

p.s."some guy in another section of these forums insisted it was my computer"
Nope, I just told you to give it a visual inspection.....to set the record straight.

 

i bought the 15 lb hr injectors, i was told by accel, that only 19 lb hr and higher required a adjustable pressure regulator.
ACCEL 150615 - ACCEL Fuel Injectors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

i went t othe auto parts store today and decided to just pick this guys brain, told him whats been going on ,etc, hes a ford guy who has worked on alot of fords so i trusted his input, come to find out , the distributor position displayed in the hayne manual is different than the one at this place on their computer, so i asked him, is it possible that the truck would run with the number one point in the wrong place and he said it was possible, so this evening im going to put the no 1 piston at TDC, and re-position the distributor to the right position, itll either run or not he said, if not, im at 180 out, so ill have to re-rotate the cracnk until it tops out again and re-position the distributor... so i guess what this is comign down to is this, since i rebuilt the motor back in 2006, i had the distributor in the wrong position, over hte years there have been hit and miss issues, most of the time, the truck has been a great running truck, so i guess its possible it still ran half way decent having the distributor in the wrong position, so tonite im doing it right, and itll either run or not.

fingers crossed

 

zstangkrewson,

I've re-read your whole situation with your truck and given the fact that we now know that you've installed injectors other than stock, a lot of things have "snowballed" into a very big mess you currently are experiencing.

First off, using non-stock injectors with the FORD EFI SYSTEM will completely confuse the "computer". That's why I directed you to visually check the computer thinking that it had a problem.

The pre-set programming in the "computer" was set up using the strategy that "stock parts" (i.e. 12lb injectors) and the readings/data that those "stock" parts" produce.
So, the "base operating system" (within the computer) has been invalidated because the "incorrect injectors" have been installed in your motor.
So then the question then is "how come the O2 sensor won't compensate for that" ?
Well, I was "enlightened" (in another forum here) to the fact that the O2 sensor function is to just "fine tune" the air/fuel mixture and it can only adjust (fine tune) to the "base operating system" settings by approximately 20%-30%.

How does this apply to you zstangkrewson ???
You've installed injectors (15 lb.) that flow a rate 25% more than the stock 12lb injectors AND the fuel pressure they're operating at in you truck is about 40% greater than what they're rated at.
This means your truck is being way "overfueled".
This would explain most all of the symptoms you've posted about...ie. "how come my truck runs better with a massive vacuum leak ?

And to further add to your problems, I think, the evr solenoid may have burned out because the "computer" was trying to lean out the system (via the O2 readings) by running the EVR solenoid constantly. EVR solenoids will burn out if constant voltage is applied to them.
A burned out EVR solenoid "symptom" is an EGR valve not opening.......you posted this error code that was read by an auto parts store in the very beginning of this whole "journey"......

So, to summarize, I'd put the 12lb injectors back into your engine and re-check your vacuum system to make sure it's operating correctly, especially the EVR/EGR vacuum system, and then see how your truck runs.

Hopefully, there aren't any other things that haven't been disclosed.

We can only provide constructive help to you if all of the facts are given.

Again, my take

Bob

 

I agree with Bob here inspight of accell saying its fine these computers cannot and will not compensate for the additional fuel likewise those injectors are rated for 40-45 psi and not the 55-65 that your truck has ie way too much fuel and that explains lots. Good luck and let us know how you make out. By the way have you done anything else like exhaust cold air intake so on and so forth as these speed density ecm's don't like alot of playing around without a custom burn on the chip.

 

Yep,
Bad verbal information given to zstangkrewson......and it cost him TONS of TIME and MONEY and AGGRAVATION chasing problems that were caused by an uniformed/uneducated individual at Accel.

If you follow the last link that zstangkrewson posted and input the year,motor, and the rest of all the input Summit asks for, the 15lb injectors are listed as "not comptible" with his 300 motor.

Ugggghh, what a mess.........

And I've gotta' give you credit 3/4T man, very, very good intuition on your part regarding the Accel injector question. Damn you're good !!!


Bob

 

3/4T thankyou, ans thankyou to teh rest of you guys, im in email at summit racing right now, trying to gether details... its still beside me why i have had it running soo good over hte years.. 3 lbs more fuel pr hour isnt alot, yes it s 25% more over 12 lbs, but the fuel pressure is still the same if not less cuz the system would notice rich fuel and would accomodate for this. however, i dont think this is a fuel issue, im going to pull off my timing cover this weekend as im afraid i may have a broken cam gear tooth as right now the truck runs smooth at idle, but under load in drive its spits and bucks... as for the harmonic balancer.. ill be pulling it this weekend as well. thanks again guys, now i have direction.

 

Nope.
The fuel pumps are "robust" enough to supply 55-65 lbs. of constant fuel pressure to your 15 lb. injectors.
Your fuel pressure is a constant 55-65 lbs. as 3/4T man posted which is way higher than what the Accel 15lb. injectors are "rated" at.
The O2 sensor can only adjust about 20-30% + - from the pre-determined "operating system" within the computer. That's just not enough "adjustment" to compensate for the 15 lb. injectors along with the 55-65 lbs. of fuel pressure going into them (Accel injectors).

The scenario with using the 15lb. Accel injectors in your truck is, you are putting a higher than "rated" fuel pressure into the injectors along with higher flowing injectors = over-fueling.
The computer just can't compensate (via the O2 sensors limited ability) for that much "over-fueling".

There is a way to "band-aid" fix what you've got going on.......an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
But, what in essence you'll be doing is installing "non-stock rated" fuel injectors on the motor and "de-tuning" them via the adjustable fuel regulator to work "like" the stock injectors....at least at idle........then once the throttle is opened ....... that'll open up another "can of worms" to deal with.

To me, that's alot of money and time spent for a very little, if any performance gain(s), and quite possibly a performance reduction.

Keep pluggin away at it, you'll get there soon,

Bob

 

zstangkrewson, I re-edited my last post for clarification.

Bob

 

Again i tried this with my 300 adjustable fuel pressure regulator is just that a band aid followed by more problems. moral of the story is that i like the little six so much that i did an maf conversion cam swap headers ported head 19 lb/hr injectors so on goes the list. point is been there done that. also i find it kind of unlikely that you are missing a tooth off the timing set because usually 1 leads to 2 leads to 3 in only a matter of minutes. but i hope that's all you find if so you should look into an easy oiling system modification in which u drill an eighth inch hole in the oil galley that is behind the timing set and install a roll pin into the hole and this will pressure feed oil to the timing set spraying the timing gears with much needed oil with little or no pressure drop to the rest of the engine i did this on mine and the difference in timing gear noise alone was worth it. I got the the idea from the big diesel engines I work on day to day but i think i saw details and pics somewhere in this forum on how its done ill look if i can find it again ill post a link. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

ok, i got a reply fro msummit racing, they have informed me that there was only 14# injectors used i n300-6 in my model year, and i did more research, looks to be, you cant even buy any injectors for most fords that are below 14#, so i feel there is a serious miscommunication here. I would also like to ask, where did you see that the accel injectors have a requirement of less PSI?

>>> there is a formula for working out your fuel setup,
Injector Flow Rate * √ (New Pressure / Old Pressure)

so if you can find me a webl ink that is coming from a certified source stating this engine came out wit h12#/hr injectors, forward me a copy of the link, and a link to buy new 12#/hr injectors would be nice, even though i have spent the last hour looking to no luck whatsoever.


cmon, i have had this truck running in tip top shape more than not, and i seriously dont see how it can sit at idle, throttle closed and run fine, but giveing it more throttle choking it out is TOO MUCH FUEL. if anything, sitting at idle would flood the motor and stepping on the throttle would increase air/fuel mixture making it run better and the smell of rich fuel would be present which it is not at this time.. and it sure as heck doesnt explain how my harmonic balancer all of a sudden isnt in-line with no 1 being at TDC. im sure its possible the rubber seal can break on the balancer and allow it to spin, but wouldnt it wobble??? wouldnt i notice it being out of align where the belt rolls on it?

everything i have ever known engine wise is telling me its a mechanical issue now, not fuel or electrical... idk.... ill find out this weekend if it doestn flood here in southern missouri, they are calling for loads of rain... but ill be on the carport, tearing it down... pulling the balancer and timing cover this weekend. also changing the oil if i can afford it... damn oil change cost morethan plug wires anymore.

whats you guys opinions on motor oil, anything wrong with LUCAS motor oil? what do you guys use?