Ammeter Connection
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Western MT
Ammeter Connection
OK, I got my 81 F-250 custom running withthe new 351. I am slowly getting the finishing touches done and she is going really good.
The next thing I have to do is to connect the ammeter, stock factory, to the alternator. She had a 300-6 in her originally.
I can't seem to find where the connection from the STA connection post on the new alternator goes to the meter. Does anyone have any idea on this? A picture of the location would be great, but a description probably suffice.
This forum is a great source of info for all of us sort of mechanically minded people who are trying to do things that we probably should leave to the professionals. Thanks for all of your help in the past.
The next thing I have to do is to connect the ammeter, stock factory, to the alternator. She had a 300-6 in her originally.
I can't seem to find where the connection from the STA connection post on the new alternator goes to the meter. Does anyone have any idea on this? A picture of the location would be great, but a description probably suffice.
This forum is a great source of info for all of us sort of mechanically minded people who are trying to do things that we probably should leave to the professionals. Thanks for all of your help in the past.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 11
From: Wausau, WI
In my book, it's showing a WHT/BLK wire going from alt. (stator terminal) to carb choke control relay and to the vip self test connector.
'81-'83 w/300 I-6
For the ammeter, it's showing a RED/ORG wire from dash, which links to a YEL/WHT wire hooked up to the "A" terminal on the regulator.
The other is a YEL/LT GRN from ammeter to a BLK/ORG wire labeled "shunt" then to the same connection that the YEL/WHT wire hooks up to.
There are two wires hooked to the "A" on the regulator. If you follow them, one should go to the capacitor by the coil. The other will go to a junction which hooks up with: YEL, BLK/ORG, RED/ORG (2 of them), BLK/ORG. I believe the "shunt" has something to do with making the gauge read correctly, even though both wires hook to this connection.
BLK/ORG is a feed to fuse panel
YEL is an option for trailer package relay
RED/ORG to #8 on dash connector
BLK/ORG (labeled shunt) to YEL/LT GRN to #9 on dash connector
Did I confuse you more??
'81-'83 w/300 I-6
For the ammeter, it's showing a RED/ORG wire from dash, which links to a YEL/WHT wire hooked up to the "A" terminal on the regulator.
The other is a YEL/LT GRN from ammeter to a BLK/ORG wire labeled "shunt" then to the same connection that the YEL/WHT wire hooks up to.
There are two wires hooked to the "A" on the regulator. If you follow them, one should go to the capacitor by the coil. The other will go to a junction which hooks up with: YEL, BLK/ORG, RED/ORG (2 of them), BLK/ORG. I believe the "shunt" has something to do with making the gauge read correctly, even though both wires hook to this connection.
BLK/ORG is a feed to fuse panel
YEL is an option for trailer package relay
RED/ORG to #8 on dash connector
BLK/ORG (labeled shunt) to YEL/LT GRN to #9 on dash connector
Did I confuse you more??
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Western MT
OK, I guess that since I put in a manual choke Edelbrock carb, I don't need this on right now. I will try to figure out the rest of it. I saw those connectors from the "A" terminal on the VR, but can't find in my Hanes or my shop manuals how to connect it up. Thanks for the input and I'll report back later the results.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Yes, the stator connection is used for the choke heater on some Ford carbs. That connection gives ~7 volts, and some Ford carbs are marked for that voltage. But, other Ford carbs have 12v heaters. IIRC, the 2150's had 7 volt heaters and the 4180's had 12 volt heaters.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I sit corrected - some 2150's were 12v and some 7v. The one I had on the '82 Explorer, which wasn't original, said on it that it was 7v.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
Trending Topics
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Ok, I'm gullible. I admit it. But, when you say it everyone listens. 
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
Just saying you have to pay attention to what choke heater is on the carb. My truck was original 12v heater wired through an oil pressure switch while others have 7v off the alternator.
Back to the OP, I hate assuming, so what alternator did you use? the 300s?
The ammeter wiring should have already been there, unless you put in a different alternator.
Back to the OP, I hate assuming, so what alternator did you use? the 300s?
The ammeter wiring should have already been there, unless you put in a different alternator.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Western MT
OK, I'll admit it, I pulled a bonehead move. I got a new batery and things worked fine for about a week.
Then, the battery died. I got a 940 amp battery from NAPA, so I thought I was good for a long time, especially winters in Montana.
Well, after it died, I ASSUMED it was the alternator. I bought a new alt and installed it, again from NAPA. Kind of small, only 45 amps.
Turns out, I neglected to plug in the harness to the voltage regualtor. It was hidded behind a nice little rubber shield. I was wondering what that plug went to.
So, after about $130, I finally have it charging. My bad.
So, it looks like the ammeter is working, just does not move too much when it charges. I turned on the lights without the engine running, and I can see an ever so slight move of the needle.
I like the looks of that voltmeter thoug. Maybe a project down the road.
Thanks for all the responses. Sure is nice to have a place to come and get help. Time to join I guess.
Then, the battery died. I got a 940 amp battery from NAPA, so I thought I was good for a long time, especially winters in Montana.
Well, after it died, I ASSUMED it was the alternator. I bought a new alt and installed it, again from NAPA. Kind of small, only 45 amps.
Turns out, I neglected to plug in the harness to the voltage regualtor. It was hidded behind a nice little rubber shield. I was wondering what that plug went to.
So, after about $130, I finally have it charging. My bad.
So, it looks like the ammeter is working, just does not move too much when it charges. I turned on the lights without the engine running, and I can see an ever so slight move of the needle.
I like the looks of that voltmeter thoug. Maybe a project down the road.
Thanks for all the responses. Sure is nice to have a place to come and get help. Time to join I guess.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 2
From: Marysville, WA
Do a search and you will find the 3G alternator swap. 140 amps and internally regulated. But once you do the swap, the ammeter no workie, so have to go to voltmeter. Well, you don't have to but finding the right shunt to make the ammeter work could be challenging.
I got my 3G from the JY for around $40 with the necessary wiring, then just add the fuse and life is good. You do have to swap the pulleys, but no biggie.
I got my 3G from the JY for around $40 with the necessary wiring, then just add the fuse and life is good. You do have to swap the pulleys, but no biggie.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chillman88
Electrical Systems/Wiring
7
Jul 22, 2013 05:45 AM
farmnaggie
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
May 27, 2006 02:44 AM