My 95 ford explorer has the rear air ride system, my pump keeps going on and some times it comes on when my truck is off for short time, the rear rides very low, dealer said both my shocks have holes in them and I have a bad relay. Would it be better for me to replace with air shocks or go with regular gas filles shocks, I am thinking of cost only..I like the air ride system but dealer wants 1500 bucks to replace shocks and relay, if relay is bad why does my pump come on though, I can replace the shocks myself, that is no problem, if I can get factory replacement at decent cost. And where would this relay be they are talking about.I dont think my shocks are pumping up at all or very little, truck always looks like I have a load of bricks in the back
I saw on the struwebsite I can get both air shocks for around 150 bucks but want to make sure this is the route to go.
Thanks to all in advance....since I have joined this site I have been able to fix my dpfe sensor and cruise controll, now I am on to my shocks

 

I have ordered the strutmaster shocks, coil springs and manual air bag it was around 500 bucks, haven't installed yet. I'm done with the factory system.

 

I am doing the coil spring swap now on Navigator.. Got the rear done and drove it. Rides like a new truck. Will do fronts when time allows. No compressor in it now, but it rides fine. Can't wait to get front done to compare.
I used Suspension Alternatives which is owned by Strutmasters. It offers 1 year warranty instead of lifetime and is cheaper because of this.

 

My StrutMaster stuff has been in my ride now for four months and I still am glad I scrapped the factory stuff.
My 120,000 shocks were beat!

 

Dan and Billy how were the strutmaster directions? Any additional advice to add especially for disabling the light in the dash?

 

Folks,
Long time reader, first post....
Is there any way to check to see if we have the air suspension on the used 97 Exp EB we bought, by VIN?
In a former life, I owned a 2002 Exp EB...
TIA
Carl

 

Its real easy to do a visual inspection Virago, just look under the rear bumper at the axle and instead of seeing leaf springs or coils like you would on a conventional rear end, you will see two black round air bags (about the size or gallon coffee cans ) above the axle between the wheels and the shocks. Don't know how to tell by the VIN or if they were optional equipment.

 

The instructions have you removing the radio and cutting the wires to the light in the IP cluster. I was expecting more, but that was it.
I opted to remove the cluster and pop the service suspension bulb out instead. It was actually easier for me since I had it out to re-solder the odometer connections at the same time.

 

How does the steering feel after the swap? I notice when I ride around with my air ride switch off the steering feels light.

 

You have to turn the switch back on.
That's why you have to disable the light, so the steering assist still works correctly but the service light isn't on in your face all the time.

 

Steve ,
Directions are good. The only issue is which way to face rear springs. Arnott industries says to put tighter wound end up, so I did this. Also make sure to soak everything in penetrating oil for a few days to loosen if rusted.
As for disabling light, I think a decal of some type to hide it is in the future for me rather than removing a lot of stuff!!

 

Some pictures of some of this stuff would be very helpful. I am in the middle of replacing the compressor, and rear air shocks on my wife's 2wd EB Expy and I am fumbling around with it. While I am, I am taking pictures and will make a write-up and post it when the job is complete for future reference. I would finish it today except someone at the warehouse "dropped the ball" according to Eddie at American Air Suspensions and forgot to ship my air bags. I bought the 1-2-1 SPIDER JR.,COMPRESSOR & REAR AIR SPRING KIT from them without the relay. Delivered to my door for $388. Beats the $2500+ a mechanic was telling me it would cost. Even if the relay went bad and it cost me another $120, it's still way better than what he said.

 

This thread is 7 years old, lets let it rest in peace.

 

old threads contain useful information that can help members sort out their trucks older. long live fte

 

I agree but when a thread is this old it should only be used for a source of information and not for an on going discussion. I have accidently posted a response to threads where the OP has not been here for 3 or 4 years. Threads that are over a year old should be locked and available for research information only. A searcher should copy/paste to his own thread if he wants to quote from an old thread. JMHO