Is this a power steering leak? I am trying to identify all leaks currently. If so will I need a new gearbox as mentioned in another thread (something like redbox iirc).

 

Check the power steering fluid level. If it is low, check all of the hoses for signs of leaking, then fill it to the level indicator. If it is full, start the truck and have another person turn the steering wheel all the way right then all the way left a few times while you look at the steering gear box from the same angle that you took the pics and check for leaking. If in fact you do see fluid leaking, you can go with a Redhead gear box but you don't "have to". If cost is a concern, you can very well use a reman from the AP store.

 

What color is it? Try to get some to drip on a WHITE paper towel or table napkin. Second pic, it looks kinda brown, like that new joint was over-greased. Or could that be the color of (eek!) power steering fluid?

Hmm, looks like it might be coming from the sector shaft. Was the pitman arm removed with the replacement of that center link? Was a hammer used? For that matter, was a hammer or any sort of abrupt force used to remove the old center link joint from the pitman arm? Can't help but wonder if the seal on the sector shaft is spoiled, as a result of not using the proper puller/separator tool(s). Did the leak start after the center link was replaced or was it going on before that?

 

I recently replaced my power steering pump and someone reminded me that the older systems were meant to run with automatic transmission fluid and not power steering fluid. If the pervious owner or shop put power steering fluid in the system, it could cause leakage.

 

Not just ATF but Type F ATF prior to 96-98

 

I'll try to check color today. The pitman arm was not removed, but removing that tie rod bolt took a whole lot of persuasion. The pitman arm and visible gear was wet before this though. I also used a pitman arm puller to remove the tie rod because forks did not work. Even with the pitman arm remover it took a lot of hitting.

Can the sector shaft be replaced without replacing the entire box?

I did use power steering fluid for the pump, not ATF. If I drained the PS and replaced with ATF would that fix it or is something internal messed up because of this?

 

I also used ATF in the AT and I am not sure if it is type F or not. Do I need to drain this?

 

Drain / flush and replace the fluid anyway, as it should not have PS fluid anyway. You'll probably need to drain, fill, start and run the steering lock-to-lock to circuilate, drain and fill again, 2-3 times, to get all the PS out. If that fixes the leak, buy a lottery ticket. If it doesn't, it's only cost you a few quarts (if that) of ATF.

This separator - 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator - separates these joints with ZERO impact/hitting. Tighten the jack screw down to create gradual pressure, and even if it doesn't pop the joint right away, leave the tool in place. Within a minute or so it should pop on its own. Whether the use of impact is the cause of the leak is still a guess, though.

I'll leave the tranny answer to someone who has one. I run synthetic ATF in my ZF5s, but that's another story.

 

I will drain the pump a couple of times and instead of lottery tickets I will save my luck for election day.

Next time I will use the ball joint separator.

 

Which transmission ?





I believe Type H was replaced by Mercon or Mercon V.....

 

Thank you. My ATF said it was for 80's ford transmissions so it should work. I drained the ps and filled it with type f ATF and it is no longer leaking, but I have not driven it yet so time will tell.

 

Took truck for a short spin and it is still leaking pretty heavily. Will this cause the PS pump to fail while driving or will I only have to continue to top off? Does anyone know if there will be a group deal on Readhead gear boxes this year?

 

Why not replace the seal instead of the whole sector? It looks like its just leaking around the output shaft seal. You'll have to pull the Pitman arm off, then look for a snap ring inside the housing bore. Remove the snap ring, top the fluid off and start the engine. Turn the steering wheel back and forth a few times and the pressure will blow the old seal right out. Reassemble with a new seal and replace the snap ring and Pitman arm and you're done. No need to remove or disassemble the steering box to replace the seal. I used to do a lot of those years ago and never had any problems with them leaking after. The seal kit should be less than $20.

 

Thanks, I will give that a try before buying a new gearbox.

 

Pic in post #1 shows fluid leaking from the sector shaft seal....which is very common.

The Ford/Saginaw P/S gearboxes have a flaw .. there are no bearings on the sector shaft, it rides directly on the housing.

So, before too long, fluid begins leaking from the sector shaft seal. The Pitman Arm connects to the sector shaft.

The input and sector shaft seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores, but...

Due to the scarcity and expense of parts, so called auto parts store gearboxes and nothing more than resealed gearboxes.

Red Head Steering Gears located in Seattle WA takes the housing, machines it to install the needle bearings that Ford omitted, so they could sell a gazillion sector shaft seal kits.

And btw: TYPE F ATF (it's red) is the same as P/S fluid. 1976: Ford came out for the first time with quart cans of "P/S Fluid" (D6AZ-19582-A).

We opened one, the fluid was red = TYPE F ATF that FoMoCo had been using since 1950!

btw part two: C4/C6 used TYPE F thru 1976, in 1977 began using MERCON aka Dexron II. AOD, C5 also used MERCON

Hydra-Matic (1950/55 Lincoln), Turbo-Drive (1956/57 Lincoln), Ford-O-Matic, FX - FMX - MX Cruise-O-Matic's used TYPE F from day one.