When the TPS is mounted, what does the Closed & WOT Resistance values measure???

 

I inputted all the information of my truck (year, make, model, sub model) and that's what I got. I can't figure out why it would be at 16.1% throttle when the TB plate is completely closed but it aggravates me that this is the second TPS from a different manufacturer that's showing higher than 0% when the TB plate is shut

 

OK, but what does the TPS actually measure in ohms compared to the resistance numbers I posted above, when its mounted & the throttle is closed & at the wide open position????

 

Not sure as it is too dark to test atm. Will have to wait until late afternoon tomorrow but I know it's working properly. Plugged in but not attached to the TB it reads 0% throttle and it increases as I turn the slotted piece on bottom and it also reaches 100% throttle when I turn it as far as it will go. It's just something about the pin that hooks into it and runs through the TB to the butterfly plate that isn't right. Like the previous owner removed it and didn't re-install it correctly, if it's even possible to remove.

The TPS is perfectly fine, but I will check the Ohms reading when bolted to the TB tomorrow as you requested.

 

Alright well i installed the new driver's side O2 sensor and tried to install the new one on the passenger side but can't get it out for the life of me.

I now have 5 fault codes:

So looks like the evap system is finally throwing codes after suspecting it for weeks now or the computer has just realized there is an intake leak.

Any suggestions on why i am still getting the O2 slow response fault and the lean fault?

Thanks

 

On the TPS mounted ohms reading you posted above, review my post #58, 6.3 ohms is no where close to what its supposed to be at closed throttle. We're supposed to measure between the TP & VREF terminals.

On the O2 sensor removal, try some heat & overnight rust buster soak, like a Kroil soak.
Maybe try heating, blocking the breaker bar so its applying loosening pressure, apply rust buster & leave it with the loosensing torque applied so the heat & rus buster can do their thing & see what happens.

The lean, no switching & slow response O2 sensor codes could be caused by the vacuum leak. Ever get the injector fuel line parted & lower intake manafold gasket replaced????

Yup, looks like the computer is now unhappy with the evap circuit & it'll come into play on cold starts when its supposed to purge stored gas fumes out of the charcoal canister, to help quickly get us going on those cold starts.

 

OK well i went and retested the TPS when it was unhooked completely from the truck and these are my results:

But when i tested from the TP terminal to the VPWR terminal i got these readings:
Thank you for those suggestions on the O2 removal. I soaked it in liquid wrench overnight but it still doesn't want to budge AT ALL. Would the Kroil soak work better?

No i haven't been able to get the fuel lines detached and ever suggestion i receive is one i have already tried. Taking it to a shop is my last resort and i have a feeling they'll just replace the fuel rails to make it easier.

OK well it's telling me that it's either the purge control solenoid or the purge control valve. Where exactly are these located and how can i test them to see which one has actually failed?

Thank you for your continued help

 

Small update here:

I just found the cause of the P0122 fault code. I unhooked the TPS when i was playing around with some vacuum lines earlier in the week and completely forgot to plug it back up to the PCM before taking it for the ride that resulted in the codes listed in post #65. I just remembered i had unplugged it when i went under the hood earlier today. Sorry for that but now that it's plugged back in that code is gone. Still having the 16.1% throttle at idle problem though. Seriously thinking about investing in the Edelbrock TPS that is a "universal" fit with the slotted mounting holes to compensate for the problem i'm having.

 

In case you never got them apart I suggest just removing the two bolts at the fuel pressure regulator and wiggling it out. I didnt want to bother finding the special tool so thats what i did. The previous two times i removed the the lower intake manifold i just left it connected at the fuel line and moved the entire assembly to the side to access the cylinder heads. This time i removed it completely because the shop where i bought my new heads offered to clean and inspect all my parts for free.

 

Had to take the valve covers off (major pain on driver side) to access the mounting brackets but besides that it went smoothly. Thank you!

I do have a question though.

1. Exactly how were able to move the rails completely out of your way? I can lift them up pretty far but cannot move them over to get to the lower intake. I have checked for straps or brackets that could be holding the lines down but have found nothing. Not ready to break a fuel line just yet lol.

2. Was the lower intake a pain to remove or did it come out easily? Anything i should know before removing it? And do you have any tips to make the removal easier?

Thank you

 

I had the same problem with my 99 B2500. After trying everything I noticed the wiring harness that ran all the emissions sensors was cooking on the EGR tube. I was tucked back there and not easy to see. I was tracing ground wires when I found it. I fixed the wires and drove it around the block twice. I had to shut it off before the computer relearned. Started it back up and it ran perfect! I had to post this because nobody else reported this.