So I'm looking into getting another SD I've been wanting another one lately and really miss my 08 F250 V10 I had. So I'm selling the F150 and the search is on for another SD.

This time around I'm looking at Diesels but I know nothing about them, Ive been trying to read up on them and all the info is blowing my mind on the 6.0's. I'm aware with some of the issues from reading forums. I think I wanna stay away from the pre 05 6.0's so that leaves me looking at 05-07's. I've found a few i'm interested in, which would be CrewCab 4x4's SRW.

My plans DO NOT INCLUDE MODDING! I just want a nice solid platform I'm not into blowing black smoke and all that crap. If I do anything it'd be a Catback at most. Not concern about going fast.

Now I've been told if I just keep it in a stock form and keep up on the maintance then the 6.0 is a solid motor? Its when it's more or less neglected when issues arise ( which IMO is with any Motor ). Is this true? Or am I gonna have to put some money into this motor for a stock setup? And am i going to have to babysit this truck?

On that note.....am I right looking for an 05-07 6.0? What should i look for when looking at used 6.0's? I just dont wanna sink abunch of money into a truck after paying 20K.


Thanks for any Help!

 

You would still have to put money into to "bullet proof" it. Use the search funtion to find them. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-6-0-a.html

 

*First thing to know is the factory gauges are really idiot lights (engine temp, trans temp, and oil pressure) so don't rely on them. A ScanGauge ($150) or other device that plugs into the OBD port is your best bet to assess the condition of the truck. The first order of business would be to look at the oil temp vs the coolant temp. If there is more than 15deg difference the oil cooler may be plugging up. This is the beginning of a cascade of failures that can cost several thousand dollars to repair. When the oil cooler plugs, coolant flow to the EGR cooler is restricted enough to eventually cause it to fail (and/or the oil cooler can fail, allowing oil to enter the cooling system). Coolant from the EGR cooler enters the intake manifold and the combustion chamber causing extreme pressure that can stretch the head bolts and allow the head gaskets to leak. Without accurate info (gauges) all this (or just part of it) can happen with little to no warning.*
Many people have used aftermarket parts to remedy some of these problems and you may find a used truck with head studs instead of the factory bolts, EGR cooler deletes or EGR coolers replaced with stronger units.
I'm backing up a little here but the beginning of these problem is thought to be a coolant issue. Good maintenance is the key to getting long service out of a 6.0 and ignoring the coolant can kill it. There is some debate about wether the coolant type is the problem or casting sand left in the coolant passages during manufacture is the problem. There is much reading you can do here on FTE on that issue. Look for white residue around the coolant overflow tank on any truck you are thinking of buying. That would indicate the cooling system may have been over pressurized by an engine problem or the cap has failed.
The turbo on these trucks is a variable vane design with no pressure relief valve. They have been a little prone to sticking if the truck sits a lot, spends a lot of time idling, or is driven easy all the time. It seems to help to "blow it out" every once in a while.
Fuel injector "stiction" can be an issue on a higher mileage or poorly maintained truck. Arrange to crank the truck cold and listen for very rough idle compared to a hot start. On the other side of that coin, slow starting when hot can indicate a leak in the high pressue oil system that "powers" the fuel injectors. There are other causes for this but be aware the fuel injectors are expensive (a whole set dealer installed can be $2k) and negotiate the price accordingly.*So, oil cooler, EGR cooler, head bolt, head gaskets, turbo, and fuel injectors, just to name the biggies.
The good news is - under all these issues is a very good engine in a great truck. Many, if not all, of the thing I listed can be avoided by keeping up with services, so you're looking for a truck that has been kept-up very well. Lots of folks have lots of miles on their 6.0 without any of these issues. Some important things to know are; Use Ford/Motorcraft/Racor oil filters, many aftermarket filters don't fit correctly and allow oil to bypass the element. As a matter of fact, it's better to stick with Ford filters for the whole truck, an aftermarket oil filter would be a red flag on one I was looking to buy.*
An Oasis report is a list of dealer repairs. It's good to know *what repairs have been done and how many. You'll need the VIN of the truck to get it.
I hope this info helps. It's pretty general. Hang around here on FTE and get into the Tech Folders and learn the "search" function for more complete info. There are many knowledgeable folks here and even a few Ford Techs that can help with specific questions you may have.*
Good luck!

 

what you should look at.... is the gauges.
before you buy a truck, or even go look at
one, get either a scangage II, or AE with
the ford bundle. AE is a better choice, but
it's close to $400. scangage II is $160.

if you go in eyes open, and know what it
takes to fix one, and allow for that in the
purchase price, go for it.

assuming the truck is either bone stock,
or you don't know what's been done,
allow for the following:

EGR cooler
oil cooler
head studs
ficm rebuild
new set of batteries
decent alternator

say, $3,500. you'll have to dance with each
of these sooner or later. might as well budget
for it now.

if the truck is worth $20k, don't go over $16.5k,
unless the above things have been done
BY A REPUTABLE MECHANIC, AND YOU SEE THE
RECEIPT.

and "my brother in law is a diesel mechanic, and
he helped me" is nice, but i wouldn't take the money
off the worksheet for it.

there's a lot of 6.0's on the market. there is a lot
of people spewing about the engine sucking. that
works to your favor, assuming you want to maintain
it properly. if all you are planning to do is pour oil and
fuel into it, and run it, buy a different power plant.

these need some watching. they can run a long time,
making good power. ignore oil and coolant changes,
and they can eat $10,000 in a repair bill, in one gulp.

if you buy one of these without a clear understanding
of engine fault codes, and diagnostic red flags, after
reading here, you deserve what will happen to you.

enjoy the ride. stay and read a spell.

 

If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't buy a 6.0. And I'm a Ford guy since 1967.

 

On vehicles, you'll have to deal with any and all parts sooner or later. You always hope later (or really never), but that is just the nature of the beast, no matter what vehicle you drive.

To the OP: Gauges and PM are perhaps the biggest things with these newer diesels. Don't expect to treat it the same way you did your V10 or how your granddaddy treated his 6.9 (or whatever the diesel at the time was).

I don't agree with everything some of the thoughts are on bulletproofing mods, but nothing else learn all that you can and be aware that you might actually know more then the mechanics that you might take your truck to. It's scary how little mechanics seem to know about the 6.0(even Ford ones).

Just don't expect these newer diesels to be "turn the key and go" type of truck.

 

My f250 is surging and has cold starts in the morning tries to clear up after running about 15 miles then wi not crank for another 20 minutes . Need help frustrated

 

exactly. there's levels of overkill, and you can end up building
a space shuttle to go to work in... but the level of stuff that
can go sideways on this engine series is astounding....

you say you bought an aftermarket oil filter, and your engine
won't start as a result?

the guy at jiffy lube changes your coolant, and the bulk stuff that
he said was "approved" caused you to have to replace head
gaskets, put studs in the motor, replace two coolers, and spend
an extra $800 in "while you are at it" parts?

gad, oil selection is a "ford or chevy?" sort of decision..... mostly
personal preference.... all will work pretty much the same....
not here.... here, oil selection is far more hotly debated than
any issue of theology, with a fervor borne of desperation.

"i changed my oil, and got stiction, and had to change 3 injectors"....
and the list goes on... and on....

 

And the lst goes on...and on... "I built a ramp and jumped 3 school buses, now my truck has a vibration above 80 mph"....."I got the neighbor kid to to rebuild my trans and now I have to drive to work in reverse" (stoopid truck). "I paid a shop $1400 to change my spark plugs (they said they looked terrible!) now my turbo doesn't engage.
I recently spent over $1k and a weeks work on my truck because I (Me) didn't service the coolant system. Am I blaming the truck? Nope. That's sorta like buying a new computer and being mad at it because you don't know what buttons to mash to make it play solitaire with you.

No secret- ford will be happy to sell you the proper oil filter. Or pick it up at WalMart IF you know which one to get.
Jiffy Lube,,really? Pullin in that parking lot in a big diesel truck is the beginning of the problem, pulling out with a degas bottle full of green coolant- that you didn't even look at- finishes you off right there. All you, the truck done nothing wrong.
Pick any vehicle forum you want and you'll find disagreement which oil is best. Brand, synth or dino, weight. Not a 6.0 thing at all. Many owners here will tell you if it's API CJ-4 rated and you like it, it'll work fine. I have heard many times of people going to the 5w-40 to reduce injector stiction and some have had good luck with it. I have yet to read a post or talk to anyone who have "gotten" injector problems from an oil change.

I will agree that if you buy one of these trucks, you got some learning to do unless your lucky enough to have a good shop to service (and yes repair) it for you. But it's YOUR truck and YOU need to know somthing about it.

 

i was just being a smarta$$, but most folks aren't accustomed
to having to know that much about what they drive, and most
rides are a bit more forgiving than this one.

my wife's 6 cyl honda accord is one year newer than my van,
and has 75k miles on it.

fluids, filters, and rotate the tires. the brakes needed service at 60k.
the master cylinder went away at 31k miles. they gave us a loner,
and it was fixed under warranty in a day.

that's it. and most people's experience with their daily driver is like that.
i think that the 6.0 requires a bit more participation than that.
and i'm ok with where mine's at mechanically, but getting there took
about eleven cents for every mile i have on it.

the only saving grace is that it's my work vehicle, and so all this
repair work is 100% deductible. so, if i spent $10,000 and my tax
basis is 25% i really only lost $7,500. the rest of that money would
have gone to the irs and ftb as taxes.

 

And that is ignorance on their part. People need to do research on their vehicles in order to make an informed decision. If people buy a vehicle that their needs don't support and they have issues with it that are directly related to that, I really have little sympathy. Ignorance is no excuse.

I am not saying that they need to know how to fix it all, but to know enough to not be a victim. Knowledge is power. Most of the so called failings of the 6.0 are related to lack of knowledge. Same thing with all vehicles, like was mentioned, some have more tolerance then others, but you have to do your research to find out. That requires effort and I see more and more people don't do that level of research. Well, honestly I think that's tough when something goes bad then.

As vehicles are getting more and more computer based this is going to be more and more the case. Diesel or gas, truck or car.