I have been slowly trying to work out kinks with my f250, at the moment i have a few random things that irk me

First, i have a bunch of wires sitting around that i assume are for the "camper special" portion of the truck, in the engine bay. I don't have a picture, but will update when i have one (all on the passenger side of the bay)

Second, with all of my digging, i can't get a solid confirmation on what a sound coming from my engine is, the only way i can describe it is that it sounds like a gremlin got in with a mallet, and is just hitting it sometimes. It sounds bad for the engine in my opinion, and i am truly worried because i have no clue if the engine has oil pressure or not (gauge in cab reads flat 0) I don't trust said gauge as the truck continues to run after multiple hours of runtime and a decent bit of that at about 3000 rpm atleast, but either way the noise is worrying

Third, my key will randomly just.. not work, go to crank and no power anywhere, and other times it will work just fine, i have absolutely 0 clue why it does this, and that's always worrying, probably hit something too hard fixing it

Fourth, i replaced my alternator, put a belt on for the ac (doesn't work, but i feel nice knowing that i have a belt on it) and got a new battery, which is great and all because that means my battery should no longer die, except for the fact that my rear passenger brake light is always on, even without the key within 30 feet of the truck, so i have to take off the terminals from the battery every time i leave the truck

Fifth, i have a motorcrap 4350 carb on the engine (460, not original to body) And it has some things broken/ missing on it, not an issue at the moment since i do not daily drive the truck, but eventually i will need to replace it, should i find another one, or get the adapter plate to another style carb?

Sixth, oh boy i know all of you love tires! I plan on getting a set of 305/70r16's of some kind on all 4 corners with a fullsize spare, i know i will have some rubbing issues at full turn 100%, but im alright with that, the main question i have for this is how bad does everyone think it would be? And does anyone have example photos of that size tire on the 73-79 range supercab's

These are all very vague issues, but im trying to get an idea of where to start checking things to find out what is wrong for when i next am able to work on my truck, any feedback is appreciated, and i will try to check on this as much as possible, as to not leave anybody hanging on a question.

 

Well I will try to help out.

1. As far as the (extra) wires on the passenger side, most should be OEM wiring for the alternator, starter solenoid, voltage regulator and the truck itself. I believe the CS stuff is all the extra on the dvrs side (extra starter solenoid, dual battery ect...). I would be careful as far as taking stuff (extra wiring) off that you think you do not need.

2. Could be a rod knocking, but since it is still running ?? Can and should at least get OEM Oil pressure gauge working or put aftermarket OP gauge on. OP is a sign of life, low to no OP is a sign of possible death to be soon.

3. Key issue sounds like the ignition switch is going out. You can get a new ign switch and swap your old key/tumblers into it. There are threads on how to.

4. Adjust brake light switch up under dash, it is threaded in the bracket. Or might have to add a small spring to pull brake pedal back up. Do #1 first.

5. As far as the carb having "things broken/ missing on it". Look at some carb pics and figure out WHAT is broken/missing. Might be emission stuff that you do not need. Does it start, idle, run, go down the road, shift? Then do not worry about what is missing. Unless it is NOT doing the things in the 1st list.

6. 305/70/16 ='s a(32.8x 12.01) and that can be a BIG tire to put on a stock 2wd F250.

 

I should clarify, i have a new ignition switch in it, i should probably get a new module

The carb mixture screws/ idle adjustment screws do absolutely nothing, the choke is broken, it leaks, and overall is in rough shape

I'll have to check the brake pedal and see if pulling up on it solves the issue, but i thought without a key in that the lights wouldn't work?

And yes, it's a big tire to put on, but i think it should be able to manage, the suspension shouldn't be too sagged since its a semi low mileage truck

 

I forgot to mention, about the oil pressure/ loud noise, my dad threw out that it could in theory be the timing chain being loose enough to "slap" around, which would make sense as the noise intensifies with rpm

 

Usually the ignition module either works or it doesn't. Sometimes if it gets hot and after all the backside guts have melted all over the inside of the inner fender well it can act up and not start. But cool down and fires right up. Next time it does want to start and you think it is hot, sacrifice some beer cooler ice and pack some in a t-shirt around it. Your cheapest Amazon one is NOT the way to go.

Ignition modules, 74 (black grommet) and 75 (green grommet) are year specific and will not interchange.76 to 79 (blue grommet) are interchangeable.Ignition modules: 1974 is 1974 ONLY / 1975 is 1975 ONLY.
Blue module introduced in 1976 was used well into the 1990's.
D4AZ-12A199-C 1974 only
DuraSpark ignition modules identified by a colored plastic insert located above where the wires feed out.
2 others: One has a redplastic insert, the other has a yellowor brownplastic insert.
Redmodule is D7AZ-12A199-Aused in some CA vehicles ONLY.
D9AZ-12A199-C(replaced D8AZ-12A199-A). One of these modules isyellow , one is brown.. Since the part number was replaced, I cannot recall which module was which color.
These modules were used in 1978/79 302 & 351M/W vehicles sold in high altitudes only. 351W: Passenger Cars & Econolines only.
1U2Z-12A199-AA(replaced D6AZ-12A199-B - D7AZ-12A199-B - D8VZ-12A199-A - D9VZ-12A199-A) .. Ignition Module -blueinsert (Motorcraft DY-893) / Available from Ford.
Myriad 1976/90's FoMoCo vehicles.
Green Sales in OH.
Collectors Auto Supply in WA.
Haven Ford in KS.
Klimesh Motor Sales in IA.
Bob Allen Ford in KS.
Freese Motor Inc in IA.
Wesley Obsolete Parts in KY.
Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC.
All the above places might not be 100% current.

Yes sound like a carb rebuild might be due or a replacement.

Nope your actual headlights (high and low beam dimmer switch changeable) and front park/t/s and both side front and rear side markers, night time back running lights, brake lights and emergency flashers, dome light, cig lighter and glove box interior light if installed, horn, and bed cargo light ALL work with OUT the key in or on. No turning signal, unless key is on.

Big tires, bigger $, chance of getting into a front fender. Priceless. Rim off set can help with that.

 

As you said "the only way i can describe it is that it sounds like a gremlin got in with a mallet" A mallet is usually made some rawheid head and have more of a dull thud sound. A loose timing chain can slap the side I guess, maybe the gremlin is giving you a warning before the chain jumps timing. When it back fires real loud and then will crank and crank and no start, time to get your finger in there.

 

Oh, i didn't explain the weird part about the key, im sorry that i keep leaving things out like an idiot but. When the key doesn't work, i just jump the relay and it starts right up
At some point i will have to see if i can get the timing cover off to check the chain
I in general get the risk of hitting the fender/ rubbing, and im content even if it does that, i think the rims i have are 0 offset, (some weird brand that were put on like 14 years ago). Im only going for that large of a tire because in some of the areas i know i will be often, it's steep gravel/rock road, and i know the truck can make it up, but with better tires that are nice and wide
And yes, the sound is fairly low, it's a very hard to describe sound exactly because i cant get it on camera, the exhaust is too loud to pick up the noise, but it sounds like a hammer/mallet hitting the block, or like the exhaust is getting cut off early.... I just realized i haven't even looked at the timing before. Major facepalm

 

As far as tires go, if you’re stuck on that height a 285 is nearly the same just more narrow. since most people make sure to announce that they have a 4wd, and camper specials came in 2w and 4w, is it safe to assume you have a 2wd?

All of your camper wiring will be on the drivers side albeit one charge cable that comes from main solenoid on the passenger side inner fender Up over the cowl and to the drivers side key switched solenoid. A pic would prevent any further speculation on this part.

 

I don't care about the height much, i need more width, although new tires in general will help generously

I'll have to post a pic when i can, as i don't have 24/7 access to the truck

 

Yes that timing chain cover is behind the water pump...not a just pop it off and look kinda deal.

To help locate the knock, you can take a piece of wooden shop broom handle and (not kidding) put it on the block and the other end to your ear and the sound will transfer. That way you can move it around and switch sides to pinpoint the sound.

 

I'll have to try the broomstick thing and poke around, but if it is a knock then i would have to rebuild the engine either way, as it would be a tremendous knock

 

Well at least when a rod starts knocking it is not an intermittent thing. Since yours is intermittent, I will hope for the best for you that is it not serious and an easy repair.

 

I hope so too, i do know that the sound is indistinguishable from the rest of the engine sounds below 1000 rpm

 

Im even confusing myself describing this sound because it makes so little sense, it sounds muffled, like someone is hitting the block, but its a low noise, not high pitch like a normal knock from a rod or bearing, as it's not metallic at all, it's incredibly confusing

 

So do you hear it with it setting there in park with the hood up? And you are listening under the hood? What about with a hand blip of the throttle?
Or only while driving down the road ( no hood up LOL)? Maybe you have a bad motor mount, do you hear it when the truck is under acceleration?