I have one in the 302 motor in my '83 F100. I'll have to take a look at that, and also look at the manual that came with it.

Did you get an Instruction Manual and pigtail connector from Summit?

The 3 wires in the Ford harness are +12V, Ground, and the Tach/Trigger Signal. The Tach/Trigger Signal goes to the Ignition Module, and fires the coil.

With the HEI setup, you no longer need the Ignition Module. The 2 wires are +12 V Power and the Tach signal. The +12 Volt should be Switched Power. It is live when the Keyswitch is in Start or Run position.

 

The build is coming along.

I got my block back (with cam bearings and freeze plugs installed by my machinist) and I painted it Ford blue, along with the oil pan.

I also mocked up my intake manifold along with carb and a new HEI distributor (Summit Racing branded Proform-built unit) to make sure my air cleaner was going to clear the giant HEI coil.

My crank is back (Ground .010/.010) and polished. I am waiting on a new damper (mine is old, brittle, and the rubber is cracked) and then I can get my rotating assembly balanced.

I rebuilt my carburetor today...it was nasty. It was manufactured in 1998 and I have never rebuilt it, so it needed it badly.

I'm also cleaning up and painting the engine bay while the engine is out.

Pics from today:

Edelbrock 1405 600 CFM manual choke all torn down...



Block and oil pan painted:



Mocked up without heads to check distributor / air cleaner clearance along with freshly cleaned carb. It just barely fits!:

 

Looks good, keep us up to date.

 

Engine bay clean-up underway...

Degreased, pressure washed, and the black part of the bay has been painted; edges and base of windshield to firewall to follow. I'll post better pictures with my Canon later on when I get it all done:

 

Taped...



...and painted:



A little wire management, some wiper painting, and she'll be ready for her new heart!

 

I got my short-block built: Crank installed, Cam installed, and all 8 pistons installed. I balanced it (got to do it myself with my buddies help) on a CWT Multi-Bal 5500 balandcing machine, and I had my rods re-conditioned at my local machine shop (Goza Machine, Acworth, GA).

I am using all ARP fasteners on this build...so I now have ARP connecting rod bolts and ARP main cap bolts.

Hastings rings were used on Tim Meyer's KB2344 pistons for Aussie heads.

I'll post up pics tomorrow if I have time.

Question for you experts: Is there an "oil slinger ring" on a 400? My Tom Monroe book mentions to install an oil slinger ring on the crankshaft (after installing the crank timing gear), but I do not recall seeing one...I am thinking it only pertains to 460's, as the book covers all builds, but if anyone knows for sure now is the time for me to find out before I put on the front cover and damper.

 

I believe that there is a ring on the crank to deflect the oil away from the front seal, but my memory foggy.

 

x2 on the ring-it is there

 

Interesting...alright, the Ford factory service manual does not show it for a 400, only a 460, but both of you recall it, and I e-mail Tim Meyer and he stated that they used to have them and use them, but they are no longer necessary and he hasn't used one in years.

So...I'll go without.

 

i like this on my 4wds that run at extreme angles. helps out a little i guess. i can't prove this but it can't hurt just by design it looks like its good.

 

Run what? A slinger? Do you have a picture?

 

dimora

still building your 400?

have a nice day!

 

He's probably waiting for some pokey machine shop to finish his heads!!
Heads should be out the door very soon for you Shane!!

 

I'm waiting on my oil pump to button-up the bottom end, Lunati hydraulic roller lifters, pushrods, and my heads - all coming from Tim Meyer Inc.

They (heads) are being built right now by Cory at TMI...with bronze valve guides and stainless steel valves, and the following supporting parts:

Comp springs (924-16)
Comp Retainers (741-16)
Comp Valve locks (611-16)
Comp Teflon valve seals (503-16)

Once Tim gets the above to me (minus push-rods), I'll clay the piston to valve clearance, determine push-rod length, and order the push-rods from Tim and get it buttoned-up and installed.

Thanks Tim!

 

dimora

sounds really cool.

later.