Okie Dokie, first off I have searched the forum archives for as much data available concerning an engine swap from I-6 to a 351W.
My ride is a original '83 F150XL 4X4, I-6 4spd manual with the only power being the steering and brakes. Pretty much a basic truck.
What I haven't seen is a concise parts list concerning the swap from the six to the eight. Therefore, I'll list what I think requires change out so feel free to chime in:
Engine perch/mount; radiator, throttle cable, radiator hoses, ignition module and perhaps a tweak to the stock fuel line. Pretty sure the location for the power steering pump is the same. The 351W came out of a truck with an auto but I already have a manual tranny flywheel for this application plus a bunch of parts from the donor truck.
What I do need, and cannot find, is the temperature control cable for my truck as well as a replacement **** type radio. LMC doesn't carry it either any longer and I have been unable to locate a NOS replacement.

And before anyone asks "why" I am up-grading the motor - I am towing more and at higher speeds than the I-6 can cope. Plus the six is getting tired and I enjoy the exhaust note of a V-8 more than an inline six.

Peace.

 

First, welcome to FTE!

Second, how 'bout going to your User Control Panel, the CP in the upper left, and fill out things like location. It might be that you are just around the corner from me, or someone else on here, and we can help you.

Third, good posts. We don't do really well on here with textese, and many guys won't try to read that stuff - myself included. You did good.

As for the parts, you shouldn't need a different ignition module, as long as what you have matches what you are going to, meaning DS-II to DS-II. The distributor or computer tells the module when to fire, so it doesn't know if it is a 6 or an 8.

If you are going from auto to manual you will also need a new pilot bearing as the auto's crankshaft won't have one and you will ruin one if you take it out. And, if you have a hydraulic clutch linkage setup you might want to read up on the issues there as the firewalls weren't engineered to handle that and are known to crack. There is a brace for it that you might want to consider.

On the temp control cable, send me an email at janeyandgary@gmail.com. I think I have one, but tell me in the email exactly what you are looking for.

 

What is wrong with the temp control cable? If it broke off on the end, and it you have a little bit of extra length, I have cut the outside jacket loose and/or unwound the wire wrap around the cable, to expose more of the center part of the cable, and then take pliers and needle nose and rebend/form the end to hook back to the control.

Gary is correct, as long as your module has blue plastic on it, it will work. But a lot of the sixes did have computer controlled ignitions, so you may indeed need a duraspark II blue plastic module. One from any car or truck, any engine will work, so long as it has blue plastic where the wires go into the module.

 

His truck is just like mine. A 300-6 with probably a New Process 435 and I'm 99.9% sure a mechanical clutch linkage. 83/84 was the transition from mechanical to hydraulic (which, I wish mine was hydraulic, but I won't complain).

All he should need for the swap are radiator, motor perches, motor mounts, distributor, coil, radiator fan shroud, correct throttle cable, flywheel, starter, and... that should be about it. He shouldn't need to change any suspension springs or anything. If I remember correct, the part number for the power steering pump is the same as for a 300-6, so all he should need there are the brackets for the pump, brackets for AC if he has any, brackets for alternator and the AIR pump. If there's anything else someone will chime in and add to it. There's really not much to swap going from a 300 to a 351W.

Now, if it was a 351 Modified, the OP would run into some problems. txgrassguy, make positively sure you're getting a 351 (check the distance from the water pump boss to the driver's side cylinder head, it should be about 3.5 or 4 inches if I remember correctly. On a 302, the water pump boss where the bolt goes through is right up next to the head) and make sure that it's a 351 Windsor (count the valve cover bolts, 351 M is 10 valve cover bolts while the 351 "wheezer" is 8. Again, if I remember right...)

txgrassguy, welcome to FTE. If you'll look up under your dash where the clutch rod goes up through the floor to a 1/4'' metal plate then runs to the clutch and brake pedal bracket, the rod that's verticle going through the bottom of the floor to the clutch linkage is the clutch rod. At the top of the rod where the metal plate sits horizontally and runs to the clutch and brake pedal bracket, that's the clutch shift lever. Check the contact points for the clutch rod and the clutch shift lever and look at wear. Chances are, you'll need a new clutch rod and shift lever as they're wallored out. I've got to replace mine, myself. It's the main problem with the mechanical linkages. Parts just wear out.

While you've got the motor out, I'd go ahead and put in a brand new clutch. Then, adjust the clutch linkage how it's supposed to be, grease everything (I use STP lube in a tube, it's non-evaporating and stays there FOREVER. Do NOT get it on clothes!!!). And, don't forget to grease the parts of the linkage up under the dash too. I'd also make sure to lube the linkages with non-evaporating oil/lube every time you do your oil change. It should last you till the end of your days if you do.

Also, unless your truck is a Californian truck (I doubt you'd be doing a motor swap if you were in Kommifornication), you should have a Duraspark II ignition system. Easy way to tell, the ignition modules on the computer controlled sixes (81/82 and 83 California, 84 to 86 50 state) are up under the dash behind the ash tray. On Duraspark II sixes (80 to 83 49-state emissions) the ignition module is under the hood on top of the driver side splash guard for the tire. Also, if it's DS-II, it might have the Duraspark II sticker on the firewall side of the ignition module with two lightning bolts on either side. If it's original, it may say Motorcraft on top of it. Though you can still get Motorcraft modules for these trucks. The cheapie rebuilt ones are less quality and don't feature the built in spark-retard-on-cranking feature that helps with easier starts.

So... pictures or it didn't happen. We here at FTE like photos, and if you haven't filled out your profile, go ahead and do so.

 

Noob of the year nominee?


Welcome man. Like Gary said, FTE got me too when I first signed up. The state you filled out doesn't show up when you post. Have to edit that again under usercp. TX would seem obvious as your location, but if you're near me we can make it to at least 4doz. junk yard trucks tomorrow.

 

Thanks for all of the responses. I didn't think the swap entailed too much effort and the tips about the clutch linkage is really appreciated.
I'm not much into forum stuff but I'll post a before and after series of pictures.
Dave - I am west of Austin and past the Perdenales River. Remember last year the 6,900 acre fire that went up the same time as Bastop? That's my A.O.
My truck is also used to respond to the fire hall since I am a volunteer fireman and EMT-B.
Just trying to get a bit more life out of the old girl and if I can get it to sound a bit "neater" then I'm all for that.

 

351m has 8 bolts on the valve cover while 351w has 6.

351m uses the "cleveland" type heads, so 351m, 351c, and 400 all have the same type heads with 8 bolts.

351w uses the same type heads as the 302, and they all have 6 bolts.