i looked theough the other smog delete forums but they all seem to go towards belt length.

i have the bracket/airpump out of the truck right now to remove a broken tensioner bolt and with the bodtlift the hoses for the airpump are just plain in the way and a pain in the a**

so if i remove the pump and the mess of hose attatched to it what else do i have to do other then the belt. im only getting 11mpg now so im obviously not concerned with mileage and i have the cat removed with a 5' chunk of 3" exhaust after the y and a flowmaster at the end so its not doing anything for my non existant cats. i just want the mess outa the way

 

i went out and got looking at it. the piece where the smog part bolts to the back of the head is atually the part that hits the firewall when in reverse. wnat would be required to plug that hole if i remove it?

if i leave the pipes in, they T together and there is a hose attatched. can i just cut the hose off and plug it there and plug off the one that runs to the exhaust?
then is the rest removable? other then plugging a couple vacuum lines?

 

ok just got looking into the thermactor plugs on the back of the head and it seems that the plugs they sell for them are just a 5/8"x11 thread. i think im going to just get 2 short 1" 5/8" bolts and that will plug those holes then the exhaust one .... not sure about that one yet might just pinch off the tube near the y pipe and weld it closed


will the bolts work to plug the holes???

 

Well the airpump is now out and the holes in the heads plugged and the pipe to the y pipe is plugged off too.

Now what about the vacuum limes to the TAD and TAB( I think that's what they're called) can I just remove them as long as I leave the electrical connections hooked up? Or do I just plug the 2 I pulled off the piping and leave like that?

 

Yep, just remove the vac lines. But leave the solenoids electrically connected or you will get a CEL. Don't take the lines off the EGR solenoid though!
Enjoy your extra 5 hp gained by removing the smog pump

 

I was beginning to think I was talking to myself there lol

I got it finished up yesterday. Truck seems to sound better now to.

 

im getting ready to rebuild my engine and this is one of my plans so keeping the electrial conectors on and pluging everything is the best thing?

 

From what I have read TW electrical connectors need to stay hooked up or you will get the CEL

 

Ok good to know thanks also did you use a delete pulley or shorter belt?

 

i just used a shorter belt


but now im getting a squealing on startup.... its a new tensioner too.

i just swapped the pullys on my 130a 3g alternator to the larger pulley off the 90a 3g alternator and i can now remove the spacers i had to put under the alternator. and the belt fits good again now. i thought the larger dia pully on the alt might help with the squealing... well nope... so i cleaned up the pulleys with a piece of scotch brite and still squeals....
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any other suggestions on how to get rid of the squealing??? it also seems to do it in store parking lots while trying to park if im just above idle.... really embarasing and annoying

 

I get that on my truck as well I just attribute it to coolant I've spilled on the belt

 

It honest sounds like there isn't enough tension if it squeals while trying to park. Lots of load on the p/s pump at low rpm with insufficient tension would cause it to slip, hence the squealing. Is your steering jumpy or hard in those situations?

 

when it did it today it didnt matter if i was turning or going straight if i had it just above idle it squeaked. then a few seconds later it stopped doing it as i atually pulled in to a parking spot.

i dont know how i could get more tensoin on it tho is my issue.... maybe try spacing the alternator out 1 set of washers. the belt is tough to get on as it is.

i figured maybe it would have been the coolant from when i lost the tensoiner/belt last week. but its a new belt and i have cleaned the pulleys with brakeclean

 

Perhaps it's a little to snug? If its tight to get on.

 

the next one down is too loose.
when its started i can see the tensioner lift a little while its squealing then it goes back down a little when it stops squealing...