My "let's fix this truck" thread
#19
MUSHROOM the head of the rounded off bolt by hammering a punch onto the head of it with a few good WHACKS. If that doesn't work, try hammering on a 3/8" six point socket onto the bolt.
Helpful tip for the PITA rear turbo bolt that is '03 specific, a dentist's mirror and oxy-acetylene torch being handy will shave HOURS off that one area alone, if it should happen to be as stubborn as your other bolt.
Helpful tip for the PITA rear turbo bolt that is '03 specific, a dentist's mirror and oxy-acetylene torch being handy will shave HOURS off that one area alone, if it should happen to be as stubborn as your other bolt.
#20
MUSHROOM the head of the rounded off bolt by hammering a punch onto the head of it with a few good WHACKS. If that doesn't work, try hammering on a 3/8" six point socket onto the bolt.
Helpful tip for the PITA rear turbo bolt that is '03 specific, a dentist's mirror and oxy-acetylene torch being handy will shave HOURS off that one area alone, if it should happen to be as stubborn as your other bolt.
Helpful tip for the PITA rear turbo bolt that is '03 specific, a dentist's mirror and oxy-acetylene torch being handy will shave HOURS off that one area alone, if it should happen to be as stubborn as your other bolt.
#22
first off, go buy some of this:
Penetrating-Lubricating Oils
spray it on EVERYTHING you need to take off. let it sit at least
ten minutes.
it smells bad. deal with it. work it out in therapy. it works.
NOTHING works like this stuff.
i started using this stuff 25 years ago, in steam plants,
where rust and corrosion is an art form, and "stuck" is
what everything is.
Penetrating-Lubricating Oils
spray it on EVERYTHING you need to take off. let it sit at least
ten minutes.
it smells bad. deal with it. work it out in therapy. it works.
NOTHING works like this stuff.
i started using this stuff 25 years ago, in steam plants,
where rust and corrosion is an art form, and "stuck" is
what everything is.
#24
rebuild you are in the middle of, off the internet, is kinda like
tossing a note in a bottle, and throwing it out to sea, and hoping
for an answer.
so, you are in a situation where you have no transportation to
get any bits and pieces except the vehicle you just took apart?
this may not work well.....
#26
#28
It heat cycles the corrosion. The hot part expands relative to the cooler part, and the movement fractures whatever is holding them together. It probably works with cold too, but freezing something with nitrogen in an engine sounds like a bad idea. If you have a plumbers propane or mapp torch, that might be enough to break it loose, sometimes you have to heat it cherry red and sometimes it just needs a bump. PS, I've never done this on a turbo, just rusted bolts on tractors where the tolerances are more forgiving, so be careful shoving a torch into the engine bay.
Fat Boy Propane Torch Kit 2-Piece-330141 at The Home Depot
Fat Boy Propane Torch Kit 2-Piece-330141 at The Home Depot
#29
Bryan is exactly right.
I just did that this morning to get a stuck caliper mounting bolt off. PB Blaster over night did nothing. Full throttle on the impact gun did nothing. A couple of minutes holding the flame of the torch over the part that houses the threads and it broke free with the first burp on the trigger.
I'd go with MAPP gas though. It's in the yellow canister and heats a little hotter than propane - every little bit helps. It needs a different torch attachment than the propane one to work properly so for your first time buy the one with the torch and bottle kit together.
Unfortunately they don't sell real MAPP anymore. The MAPP now a days just gets you a few extra degrees. I've used MAPP on a daily basis since 1998 and the older stuff was way hotter. Something like double reg propane if I recall.
I just did that this morning to get a stuck caliper mounting bolt off. PB Blaster over night did nothing. Full throttle on the impact gun did nothing. A couple of minutes holding the flame of the torch over the part that houses the threads and it broke free with the first burp on the trigger.
I'd go with MAPP gas though. It's in the yellow canister and heats a little hotter than propane - every little bit helps. It needs a different torch attachment than the propane one to work properly so for your first time buy the one with the torch and bottle kit together.
Unfortunately they don't sell real MAPP anymore. The MAPP now a days just gets you a few extra degrees. I've used MAPP on a daily basis since 1998 and the older stuff was way hotter. Something like double reg propane if I recall.