Have a 95 with a 97 engine in it and had bad valve cover harness in it, replaced them with some d-tech harness's and now it runs alot better but noticed it still has some funny idle to it and fuel mileage is not alot better. When i sit in park and hammer the gas to the floor it gets to 2000rpm and misses for a while and smokes white like crazy and then after about 10 secs of that it revs the rest of the way up to the red line and smooths out and quits smoking. I would imaige that some of the smoke is caused by the turbo not being spooled up but i can not figured out why it hunts and misses for that little while before the turbo spools up. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks

 

Sounds like injector orings.

How many miles on the engine?
What color is the fuel in the fuel bowl?
What color is the fuel filter?

 

I agree that it sounds like you have some leaking injector o-rings. It is not an expensive fix, but it will take you some time to do if this is the first time you've done injectors.

 

Now today i drove it to work again and now i can notice that it is missing alot more at the lower rpms and the longer i let it idle the longer it take to get rid of the smoke and rev up when you floor it in park. It acts like it is loading up with fuel. If it was orings shouldn't i notice burning oil or fuel in oil or something else. Is it hard to pull injectors on these engines? Can i you test the injectors once they are out? I would kinda like to test the injectors b4 i pull the valve covers again rather than do it twice if orings dont fix it. thanks for your guys help.

 

The only ways to test the injectors while they are in the truck are to ohm them out through the wiring harness (looking for right around 3.2-4 ohms each) or to do a buzz test (requires a scanner that is capable of performing such a test -- usually a good one and not the ones you get at the parts stores -- Auto Enginuity and the Aeroforce Interceptor scangauge are used the most by the folks here at FTE).

If it were me I would invest the time to pull the valve covers. While you're in there take a very close look at all the electrical connections through the valve cover, at the injectors and where the wiring from the engine harness connects to the valve cover. The connections at the valve covers are notorious for burning up and losing a good connection. The other thing I would do is to lay the valve cover gaskets on the heads, connect all the wiring and leave the valve covers off. Then start the engine. You will see that each injector has a little "spill spout" that pops off a little bit of oil every time the injector fires. Look carefully at those spill spouts and if you have one injector not working right (or at all) it will spill less oil than the other (or not spill at all if it is not firing). My guess is that this will show you what you have.

The only way to know for sure how the injectors are working is to have them flow tested on a test bench. And my personal opinion is that if you're going to do that you might as well have them gone over while they're out. Jim from Rosewood diesel (who happens to sponsor this forum) will go through the injectors and rebuild them using as many of your parts as possible for around $500. He will just charge you extra for any internal parts that he finds to be bad. The overhaul includes new o-rings on the injectors and he will up the output of the injectors to stage 1 (160cc vs the stock 90cc) for the same price. It is a real bargain compared to the $1,500 price tag of a lot of guys injectors. And you won't be disappointed in the service you receive. Removing and installing the injectors isn't a hard job. It can all be done with the engine in the truck and while there are some things to be careful of, it can all be done with basic hand tools.

Again, start by pulling the valve covers. Poking around under there you may find something small like a wiring issue that may be a simple fix. And if you end up needing injectors you have to have the VC's off anyway.

 

I just replaced the valve cover harness' about 300miles ago so hopefully that is not it, well i will give it a try and see what i find tonite Thanks for all the help.

 

it would be nice if you could post up a bit about the miles/ fuel color/ filter color/ injector age/ actual fuel milelage/ fuel pressure/ and so on.... it would help give us a better clue of what is going on and targeted suggestions of what to look for

 

Sorry about that it is a 95 ext cab with e4od automatic trans, 3.55gears, 166,000 on body, it has a 97 engine in it that i don't know how many miles on it. Trans is original as far as i know, I get about 11mpg so far, i have not got to pull very much yet, I bought the truck to pull with but so far all i have done is work on it. The truck is all stock now I was going to change the intake and put on 4in exhaust and get a 6position chip from T&S performance. But everytime i have turned around i have to stick more money into this thing. I run power service every fill, but i doubt it was gettting that treatment before. I put in 15w40 cenex oil in it and have changed air filter. Transmission seems to let the t/c lock in right after it shift into 3rd gear about 35-40-45mph, i don't think that is right. Tonite i took the injectors out after i ohm'd them and unplugged them one at a time and watched the oil pop, found quite a few orings bad on the injectors, so hopefully that will take care of some of the miss. I allowed all the oil to drain into the back cylinders and then i thought i could crank engine oil with the start to push oil out, wow what a mistake, what a mess, i have oil everywhere now, hope i did not hurt anything,

 

Yeah the best way to remove all that oil from the cylinders is to re-install the injectors (otherwise you just keep pumping oil and fuel into the cylinders) then remove the glow plugs, lay the valve covers over the heds to catch the mess, remove fuse #22 under the hood (kills power to the PCM so you're not firing more fuel into the cylinders) and then crank it for 10 seconds or so. Sorry, I guess I should have said that earlier, lol.

If you have bad injector o-rings that will certainly contribute to a poor running truck. Make sure when you get o-rings they are made by Alliant. Riffraff Diesel carries them as well as does Bob at Dieselorings.com. Any other brand and you're likely to be right back here where you started.

As far as putting money into the truck goes, don't get too discouraged. The most important thing is to make sure you're spending those dollars wisely and not just throwing parts at it. Post up or search this site and we will do the best we can to help you spend the money wisely. Some things you can afford to buy the cheap parts, others like the o-rings, glow plugs, CPS and some other things you really need to get the best or you're just wasting your time and hard earned dollars.

Keep up the good work. It will pay off in the end.

 

Well i got it all back together the other night, I used ford orings so hopefully those are good ones. Took it out for a drive and could easily notice a big increase in power and acceleration. Ran good for about 10mins then the miss came back, It sounds just like you are turning one injector off and on with a switch. I was hoping it was just air so i used it to haul cows all day yesterday and dumped in a lot of injector cleaner, It did quite well all day and towards the end i could not here the injector miss anymore, so mabye it came out of it. Not a good milage test for it yesterday, so dont know if that increased. Now if i could only control the torque converter so that would not lock up so earlier some times and fix the trans where it shifts up rather than down once in awhile and get the gears swapped into a 4.10. I would have a good puller