Oil pressure goes lower after driving.
#16
Yes.
At some point in the development of our beloved trucks, it was determined to use gauges which "act" like gauges, but don't accurately provide numbers like an aftermarket set of gauges. There is a minimum threshold, something like 7 or 8 psi at which point the sending unit provides a signal to the gauge which then goes into the normal range. I do believe there are maybe two other thresholds above that, so the needle does actually move, but it is more of a range than actual pressure.
A question not yet asked is what weight oil are you using?
At some point in the development of our beloved trucks, it was determined to use gauges which "act" like gauges, but don't accurately provide numbers like an aftermarket set of gauges. There is a minimum threshold, something like 7 or 8 psi at which point the sending unit provides a signal to the gauge which then goes into the normal range. I do believe there are maybe two other thresholds above that, so the needle does actually move, but it is more of a range than actual pressure.
A question not yet asked is what weight oil are you using?
#18
#19
I got it on Amazon for $16. It works great for the nice price!
#20
Oil is thick when cold/cool. As it warms up with engine it thins out, allowing it to flow easier through the engine. That is why an older engine will have less o.psi than a new one: the space between the bearings and mating surfaces has more space than a new engine b/c of wear, so the oil has less hindrance to its flow. Oil pressure measures the resistance to the oils flow.
That said, I would do what the previous members recommended, especially ck the oil p/u. You might want to think about using a thicker oil too. You could always pull the pan when all else fails, and ck the oil p/u and coupling gasket in the tube, and gasket at pump, and while you're there pop off one of the mains and one of the rod caps and plasti-gauge it. That will tell you the state of the engine bearings.
I had a similar problem with another engine. There are two oem openings in the lifter galley. One is where your psi sending unit is. The other is forward in a straight line toward the front of the engine, at the same height. You'll see an allen plug. If you put a gauge there you get a higher reading.
That said, I would do what the previous members recommended, especially ck the oil p/u. You might want to think about using a thicker oil too. You could always pull the pan when all else fails, and ck the oil p/u and coupling gasket in the tube, and gasket at pump, and while you're there pop off one of the mains and one of the rod caps and plasti-gauge it. That will tell you the state of the engine bearings.
I had a similar problem with another engine. There are two oem openings in the lifter galley. One is where your psi sending unit is. The other is forward in a straight line toward the front of the engine, at the same height. You'll see an allen plug. If you put a gauge there you get a higher reading.
#21
Oil is thick when cold/cool. As it warms up with engine it thins out, allowing it to flow easier through the engine. That is why an older engine will have less o.psi than a new one: the space between the bearings and mating surfaces has more space than a new engine b/c of wear, so the oil has less hindrance to its flow. Oil pressure measures the resistance to the oils flow.
That said, I would do what the previous members recommended, especially ck the oil p/u. You might want to think about using a thicker oil too. You could always pull the pan when all else fails, and ck the oil p/u and coupling gasket in the tube, and gasket at pump, and while you're there pop off one of the mains and one of the rod caps and plasti-gauge it. That will tell you the state of the engine bearings.
I had a similar problem with another engine. There are two oem openings in the lifter galley. One is where your psi sending unit is. The other is forward in a straight line toward the front of the engine, at the same height. You'll see an allen plug. If you put a gauge there you get a higher reading.
That said, I would do what the previous members recommended, especially ck the oil p/u. You might want to think about using a thicker oil too. You could always pull the pan when all else fails, and ck the oil p/u and coupling gasket in the tube, and gasket at pump, and while you're there pop off one of the mains and one of the rod caps and plasti-gauge it. That will tell you the state of the engine bearings.
I had a similar problem with another engine. There are two oem openings in the lifter galley. One is where your psi sending unit is. The other is forward in a straight line toward the front of the engine, at the same height. You'll see an allen plug. If you put a gauge there you get a higher reading.
#23
#24
If the plug on the front gives you a higher pressure reading, that might make you feel better but Ford took the pressures from the back plug for some reason... I'm not wanting to start something, just my thought.
#25
You are probably correct and I will see what happens at both points when I test the pressure and see if there is any difference. Thanks again!
#26
Look at the sending unit. If it's little it's just a switch.If it's larger (1.5"-2" can) then you've got a 'pressure' gauge on the dash. If it's little (less than 1" can) it's just a switch, and you have a glorified idiot light in the dash. That is a gauge with a resistor wired into to so it shows 'NORMAL'.
#27
My '91 has started doing this too - used to be when I was 5 minutes from home (60 min commute, mostly highway), now it does it 10-15 minutes of driving. I hear a tap while in the cab at idle, but if I go stand at the front of the motor the tap is not as pronounced - if it's the phantom I6-lifter tap, it's just one. I don't really notice any lack of power, tho - I would think if the oil pressure were really flatlining she'd be pretty bogged down. Truck went from quiet and smooth running to sounding like an old vacuum cleaner with a rough idle, so I suspect exhaust leak. It's all probably a bunch of little things that can add up to one big headache I'd like to avoid - but I can't afford the rebuild just yet. I'm currently at 173k, and due to smog at the end of October... *gulp*.
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