1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

cab mounts on my new fridge.

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  #16  
Old 05-31-2012, 07:13 PM
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cab corners are passable, the inners are rougher. DO the inners and outers connect?? or are they two hanging sheets of metal? I may just weld it if possible, a lot depends on if I can get to it all. I've used 3m durabond in the past and it's strong stuff, plus no more rust..
 
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:00 PM
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Inners and outer are seamed together along the bottom edge. They help tie the floor to the outside shell. Durabond might well work fine!
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:44 PM
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does anyone have a pic of a the underside of a good floor? I'd be nice to see what it's supposed to look like. The rear almost looks flat with just a thick support plate.
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:46 AM
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Here are the best pics I have, these were taken in 2004. New parts were from Classic Fabrication. My rear mounts we OK
 
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  #20  
Old 06-02-2012, 05:53 AM
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OK thanks Walston, it looks like the rear has the same shape as the front but goes across the cab? does that sound correct?


 
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:11 AM
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Here is a picture a just took. The rear mount is a flat heavy piece of steel. You can also see the front support.
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Walston
Here is a picture a just took. The rear mount is a flat heavy piece of steel. You can also see the front support.

great thanks, I have the remains of those on the body. It looks like they tie into the rear of the cab. So I should only really need fronts, and a patch on the rears.

bob
 
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:35 AM
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after diggin around a bit. The floor isn't to horrible. So ,y next question is do I need to remove the bed? I'm thinking yes for ease of working on it. And how does the front clip come off? any tricks or tip. I see more repairs there I have to fix..
 
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:52 AM
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It's a lot easier if you remove the bed. The front clip can be removed as a unit if you have a couple of buddies to help, or you can use a cherry picker/tractor or some other mechanical advantage. The front clip is fastened by five 5 bolts on the rear of each fender to the cab and cowl. Two of them are accessed through hand holes in the cab near the door hinges then one below those on the outside and one on top of the fender under the hood hinge. Oh and there is a soft attachment point on the inner fender to the cab firewall. Up front the clip is only attached at the radiator support to the frame just behind and to each side of the radiator.
Clear as mud??
Good luck in your quest.
 
  #25  
Old 06-23-2012, 10:33 AM
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Pulling the front clip is pretty simple and it instantly gives access to all kinds of stuff you need to address. Mine was off for about 3 months while I picked away at mechanical and rust areas. Makes me want to investigate a tilt frond end.....
 
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:45 AM
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Well I'm in it deep now... I was hoping not to find any of this but It looks like I have two spots to patch up. Thank you PO of placing chunks of pressure treated wood in there to hold the moisture and rot out the metal.


The good news I've decides I'm just going to lower the rear 3" and lever it out. I like the look with the big tires and low/flat stance.

It look e about 2hrs , 2 beers and just a few curses...









 
  #27  
Old 06-30-2012, 09:24 AM
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Well I think I just found a better body and frame , minus the motor. About the same amount of work to get it on the road , but I think I'll have a much more solid truck when I'm finished. So I guess I'll be parting out the F250 in the coming months. I'm using my motor, tranny and exhaust. Maybe a few other items, But I'll have a complete cab, frame and bed for sale in the future. Also a flaming river PS setup and column. If anyone in the north east is looking for parts let me know. The longbed is good shape, The cab is good except for the floors, The doors are real solid , a great hood and good front clip. A brand new set of 8 lug wheels and 245/75/16 tires.
 
  #28  
Old 06-30-2012, 10:08 AM
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May I ask if it is worth the effort/$$ to fix the floors in my truck? The truck I found needs no rust repairs to speak of and I would just need to drop in my motor and tranny. But it's not free.

I pulled the bed off my truck and I found two spots where the bed meets the frame that need attention. My cab will need cab corners inside and outside. front cab braces and rear braces. Really I'm thinking I need the replace the whole floor. The rear of the cab and door are good. But they will need the be striped. PO put on some type of thick gooey textured paint. \\I was just thinking of starting fresh and taking a loss on the whole project. I'm not a body man but I do weld and I can get by.

The new truck is all original, I would not need to do much except swap in dual master, and my drivetrain. This will not b a simple drop in but I'm hoping I can rob everything I need from the old truck.

My truck; after I repair the floors($500) I will need a seat ($150) steering column and steering parts($300) Gauges($200) The bed is good but the floor is beat and PO screwed wood in there that will also need a few repairs. The rear has 4.88's so I need to do something about that. ($150) And the radiator support need a little repair. This is not taking into account any of the other items I find when stripping it further. I can see some fiberglass repairs also. Keep in mind the rest of the front clip is in really good shape fenders ect.. I will also need to paint it with something. Around ($200) in a yard job. That's at least $1500 to make the truck closer to what I want.
 
  #29  
Old 06-30-2012, 12:59 PM
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is it worth saving? If so do I replace the floor from the top or bottom?












 
  #30  
Old 06-30-2012, 02:41 PM
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Wow! That is some extensive floor damage.

Depending on the condition of the other truck you might buy it, switch over the best parts of both trucks to the same chassis, then part out or sell the complete second truck.
 


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