Could be but I would check a little bit more.
I would unplug the PCM Computer and crank the engine an see if spark returns to the two plug wires. If it does then PIP sensor is OK and more than likely the PCM Computer is bad or ground wire for the computer at the NEG post is bad or off. It could be that the computer has no power to it.
Also make sure the red wire at any injector is hot with a test light with the key on.
The sensor is mounted on the stator assembly.
Yes you can buy a stator assembly with the PIP sensor on it and put it in yourself.
The distributor has to be removed and taken all apart and the shaft removed to replace it. Never put a rebuilt distributor in because about 90% of them have bad PIP sensors in them.
The stator assembly can be bough at most auto part stores or a Ford dealer. It seams like I paid about $40.00 for the last one I bough, this is from memory. Pulling a distributor out of a 302 is not that hard to do.
Just make sure the engine is at top dead center with the rotor in the distributor pointing to #1 before you take it out.
When you put it back in pull the SPOUT out before setting the timing with a timing light at 10 deg BTDC.

 

Good morning and thanks Bill,

Whats the best way to disconnect the PCM to see if I'm getting spark to my plugs then? Also, how do I see if the PCM is getting power and also if the gnd is getting to the PCM? Which pins should I look at? I have the electrical and vacuum book. I do not see the Crank position sensor or the PIP sensor either. I guess just the distributor symbol is suppose to represent the sensor huh?

Any special tools required to disassemble the distributor if we see that it is indeed the distributor's sensor? Is the EEC in my book the PCM?

Thanks Bill again.

Sid

 

Back the 10mm bolt out and wiggle the plug as you back the bolt out.

Ohm the PCM ground pins to the NEG post of the battery. Using the voltmeter check the power pins to the ground pins.

Pins 40 & 60 for the ground and 1, 37 & 57 for power.

More than likely.

A press to take the gear off and the shaft out.

[quote=cityjack;12418438]Yes the PCM was once called the EEC, they are the same but do different things. The PCM also controls the transmission and the EEC does not.





/

 

I am not sure on a 1991 if you have the remote mounted ICM or the distributor mounted one.

 

Bill,

I just checked voltage to the injectors or the few that I could get to easily and I have battery voltage at the red wires at "key on". To start checking pins 40 & 60 for gnd and 1, 37, & 57 for power on the EEC I need to disconnect the EEC from its plug. For my 1990 the book tells me the EEC is mounted under the blower motor. I have found the "little silver metal box" under the blower inside the cab on the passenger side. I pull off the plastic protective cover and there it is. I do not see any 10mm bolt. Only a plastic support bracket holding up the backend of the EEC. That plastic support bracket does have a bolt to it though. I am not sure if just by removing the support bracket I can just pull the EEC off of the firewall/harness connector that is sticking through the firewall. The other side of the EEC firewall connector is under that blower motor behind the battery in the engine compartment. Very hard to get to much less stick a meter lead into accurately. Can I just get the EEC off inside the cab and probe the connector from there or is there a bolt/bolts from the engine bay side that need to be undone? If thats the case, to check power, I'll need to get the battery out work on the back side of this connector to disconnect from the EEC and then put the battery back in to somehow then check for power.


Sid

 

The 10mm socket size bolt holds the plug into the EEC.
Yes it is very hard to get to but the plug has to come off in the engine compartment first before you take it out from the inside of the van.
But you do not have to take the computer out.
Just unplug it from the engine side and you should be able to get the plug where you can work with it.
But before you do all of that try pulling the SPOUT shorting bar (jumper) out and see if spark returns to the plugs. If you have the distributor mounted ICM the SPOUT should be near the bottom of the distributor.

 

Bill you were right. I was able to get to the 10mm bolt behind the battery. A bit tough but I got it off. The EEC I took off and placed it on my seat. Now with the EEC on my seat I pulled a plug and checked for spark. Still no spark. Yes I do have the distributor mounted ICM. With no spark with the EEC disconnected, should I still check for power and grounds to the EEC or does that not matter any more since it being disconnected takes it out of the equation totally and I should get spark if the PIP is doing its job? Is it time to order a distributor stator?

Sid

 

Yes it takes the computer out of the equation totally and no you do not have to check for power and grounds to the computer.

It still could be the ICM mounted on the side of the distributor. You should be able to take it off and most auto parts store can test it. If it test good then more then likely it is the PIP.

Leave the computer out until you get spark back.

 

I will pull the distributor and get the ignition module in to be tested tomorrow or Monday. If its ok then I'll just order the sensor from NAPA. I have already got the part number for it. Is the ignition module available as a separate part as well? Not too bad on the cost of the sensor....24.99 from NAPA.

I'll keep you posted.

Have a good weekend Bill

Sid

 

Yes the ICM is a separate part.

 

Evening Bill,

I never got the chance to get over to the driveway and yank the distributor. Too busy in the barn and around the house today. Provided Hurricane Sandy gives me some dry time tomorrow, it will be taken care. Quick question if I may. In all of our electrical/no spark troubleshooting why did we never talk about or consider the coil? I am assuming if the coil was bad at least the plugs would be wet from the injectors firing anyway. What cut that piece out of the equation for you? Just curious.

Thanks Bill

Sid

 

Yes the coil would not keep the injectors from firing. Normally we use a NOID light on the injectors to make sure they are not firing or are firing. I think in this thread the fuel pumps would not run while cranking either and the coil would not cause that either.
I answer so may thread sometime it is hard to remember what all was talked about in each thread.
I have a good memory but my memory just does not last every long.

 

Didn't read where the fuel problem was solved so I wanted to add th below.
Ford's recall info said call them not any dealership. Dealers aren't ford. Once Ford would odentify your van as in one of the effected the dealer has no choice under contract to be allowed to sell and service ford vehicles. If not they could kiss their ford fleet servicing good bye. The ford company hotline number might of been changed so find out what it is with vin number in hand and call them for any help. If it was fixed already by ford and it happened again I imagine ford would want it fixed again.

 

He has fuel pressure at the rail.
No spark at the plugs with the computer removed.
The fuel pump relay was not making while the engine was being crank before the computer was unplugged.
The spark plugs are dry so the injectors are not being grounded.

At this time it looks like he has one of the problems below:
1. No power to the Ignition circuit.
2. A bad TFI module (ICM).
3. A bad PIP sensor.

 

Hey Bill,

To save pulling the distributor if it isn't the PIP sensor, I found a shop that can test my ignition module but they need it off of the distributor. Can I remove the module from the distributor WITHOUT pulling the distributor? Does it take any special tools?
Hurricane Sandy is giving us some snow but not too bad right now. I want to take advantage of this day away from work.

Thanks