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1999 Superduty rear disc brakes fit our Sterlings?

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1999 Superduty rear disc brakes fit our Sterlings?

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Old 05-23-2012, 11:32 AM
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Question 1999 Superduty rear disc brakes fit our Sterlings?

I see a local add for a rear axle from a 1999 F250 Superduty that has the rear disc brakes. The seller thinks it's a 3.73 ratio (won't match my D60 with 4.10's) but I was wondering if I could bolt on everything from the axle tube onto a 2nd generation Sterling with 4.10's? Price is $150, well worth it just for the brake conversion even if I junk the rest... can this be done or were there other changes?
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:43 PM
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No, the bolt pattern is different, so the rotors won't fit. Most that do a disc brake upgrade use rotors from a van, and calipers from a Cadilac. The mounting brackets have to made or purchased. This company sells the brackets Ford Sterling Disc Brake Bracket 84-94 - RuffStuff Specialties
If you do a search on the94-97 stroke forum there are quite a few threads what is needed. This is the latest https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...onversion.html
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:58 PM
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The ruffstuff kit uses front chevy 3/4 ton calipers. You can redrill the 10.5 sterling hubs. I think the hub also has to be machined slightly.
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:20 PM
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Lightbulb hydro from vac,is like turbo from n/a.

swapping to disc brakes out back is chicken feed compared to swapping out vacuum for hydro.
kinda like the difference of upgrading the exhaust system for an IDI engine,without adding a turbo.it helps,but nothing is like adding real stopping or going power.
skip the '99 axle,and be on the hunt for a used f-super duty (pre-f450) brake hydro unit instead.simpler install and much greater results.
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:36 PM
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Im with ya FORDF250.. but i want both. And in my position i would much rather have rear brakes to go with my fronts, over really really good front brakes only lol. Besides that, the 10.5" is around 3" longer, almost dead on the same width as my KP D-60, which would be nice as well. Still trying to come up with a "good" way to make the 10.5 axle 8on 6.5 tho. Redrilling the rotors is the easy part. Only other thing i have come up with is using a dually 10.25 for the width, and keep the drums. I would much rather have discs while im at it all.

Sorry for the hi-jack.

Also, the 10.5 allows for use of a the stock e-brake that works really well, which you cant really do with other setups, the caddy rotor/ calipers dont work very well and are very $$$
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:52 PM
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Real quick, since its almost on topic, anyone know by looking if this is a D60 or a 10.5? Guys says its 10.5 ring gear in the post, but i thought all vans, at least until 08 were 8 on 6.5 D60's

2005-2007 Ford E350 Van Rear End Disc brake
 
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle View Post
Real quick, since its almost on topic, anyone know by looking if this is a D60 or a 10.5? Guys says its 10.5 ring gear in the post, but i thought all vans, at least until 08 were 8 on 6.5 D60's

2005-2007 Ford E350 Van Rear End Disc brake
Looks like a D60 to me, not a Sterling. Does not quite look like the older D60's but it has the fill plug on the back cover.
 
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:15 AM
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10 bolt cover = dana.
12 bolt cover= sterling
 
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:41 AM
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Old 05-24-2012, 09:51 AM
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thanks guys!
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT View Post
swapping to disc brakes out back is chicken feed compared to swapping out vacuum for hydro.
kinda like the difference of upgrading the exhaust system for an IDI engine,without adding a turbo.it helps,but nothing is like adding real stopping or going power.
skip the '99 axle,and be on the hunt for a used f-super duty (pre-f450) brake hydro unit instead.simpler install and much greater results.
Oh great! More stuff to add to my parts list.... maybe. The main reason I was interested in the rear discs is for (possibly) better resistance to overheating. I Once pulled my camper down a rough, steep grade where it was necessary to ride the breaks to ease over all of the rocks and ruts which was beyond what I could control with downshifting. By the time I reached the bottom of the grade my brake pedal was mush, falling into the floorboards at the slightest push. This "fixed" itself after about 30 minutes of flatland driving and pumping the pedal a few times. A friend later told me he experienced the same thing with his 88 F350, and the shop he took it to told him it was a design flaw and the result of superheated brake fluid. They installed some heat wrap on the brake lines (what?). Anyway, I did not like what happened that day, and thought that the caliper style rear brakes would stay cooler, as well as have more braking power. I have little knowledge of hydroboost, but I am thinking that it would not change the heat-up characteristics of my existing system. Anyone with rear disc set up out there care to comment on how their system performs WRT heat-up?
 
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:09 AM
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^^^^sounds like regular old brake fade to me. the same thing will happen with rear disc. probly will happen easier and sooner to. drums offer WAY more surface area. SA=brakeing power and heat dissipation.
 
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