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  #16  
Old 06-18-2012, 01:53 PM
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The nice thing about making the move to a shallower backspacing is that (at least in my experience) a good number of the aftermarket wheels out there are already typically between 3 and 3.5" backspacing which would be ideal for your purposes. When you start looking you will see what I mean. If you or a seller is uncertain of the exact backspacing, it is easily measured by laying a straight edge like a level across the back edge of the rim and measuring down to the surface where the wheel seats against the brake rotor or drum when it is on the truck. That measurement, minus the lip that the tire bead rests against is the backspacing measurement.
 
  #17  
Old 06-25-2012, 05:41 PM
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Awesome thanks, So the kit should be here by Wednesday, cant wait! Ill have some pics up when its here...

Also I had another thought, I had bought 2" coil spring spacers a while ago, they are the polyurethane ones, should I throw those one to with the new coils? I was reading around that once these springs settle you lose about an 1".
 
  #18  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:37 AM
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My Tuff Country fronts were about 1.5" shorter than the finished height of the rear but I replaced the rear with new full springs that were supposed to give 4" of lift but actually turned out to be more like 5.5". So, I dropped 1.5" urethane spacers into the front after the fact to level out the look.

In truth, Ford trucks used to come from the factory a touch taller in the rear simply because Ford made the assumption that anyone buying a truck would LOAD it with stuff thus, they let the ***-end ride high unladen so it would be more "level" when loaded.
 
  #19  
Old 06-27-2012, 02:52 PM
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Here we go folks, got the kit in today!!!

All the brackets are in the other boxes
 
  #20  
Old 06-27-2012, 03:05 PM
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Looks good so far. What is the unextended height of those springs? They look... A bit short to me, but it could be a thicker metal requiring less coils.
 
  #21  
Old 06-27-2012, 03:07 PM
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Lol picture makes them look small they are pretty figgen beefy, they are 19" long
 
  #22  
Old 06-27-2012, 03:12 PM
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Oh ok, that sounds about right. The springs i was looking at were the Deaver coils from Super lift, they are for a 4" lift kit but full un weighted extension they ate like 23-24"... I liked the look of them.

This is what i will probably do
Ford Suspension Lift Kit
I just don't know what else i need with it. the plan is to order that and this
Ford Rear Shackle Flip Kit - Sky's Off-road Design
That way i don't have to use the blocks that come with the lift kit. The issue again is i don't know what all i need with the kit to do a full lift. I seems like it has everything but i am not sure.
 
  #23  
Old 06-28-2012, 03:49 AM
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I will remind anyone looking at replacing coil springs to check with the manufacturer and make certain the springs you are buying are already scragged. Coils that are not pre-scragged will lose ride height and sag within a few years but always well after the "warranty" is up on them.
 
  #24  
Old 06-28-2012, 10:14 AM
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I can tell these have been scragged, they must have only painted them with one coat cause you can see the markings then they did another coat. I ended up spraying these black with some rust-oleum, i plan on doing a few coats
 
  #25  
Old 06-28-2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by greystreak92 View Post
I will remind anyone looking at replacing coil springs to check with the manufacturer and make certain the springs you are buying are already scragged. Coils that are not pre-scragged will lose ride height and sag within a few years but always well after the "warranty" is up on them.
Oh thanks for the advice, i didn't think about that, nor did i know there was something called "scragged"... How would i go about talking to Rough Country about their springs?
 
  #26  
Old 06-28-2012, 02:42 PM
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Scragging is a process by which springs are compressed to the point of complete compression and held for a period of time.

"Scragging is the English term for “set removal”. I personally like using scragging because it is more fun to say. Scragging or set removal is a process where the spring is pressed to its solid height. This procedure is not necessary for every spring. It is used mostly on springs that are overstressed at solid or at a required deflection. Once the spring is taken to solid, it will be able to operate at a higher load capacity without over-stressing."

This is an excerpt from an engineering article on coil springs. The article goes on to state that "set removal" or "scragging" is key to the automotive and most vehicular industries to ensure that ride height remains consistent throughout the service life of the vehicle.

As for finding this information from a particular manufacturer, some will actually list it as a part of their manufacturing process, others you may have to give them a call and ask if it is part of their process or if the springs they "buy and resell under their own product name" are manufactured using this process.
 
  #27  
Old 06-28-2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by greystreak92 View Post
Scragging is a process by which springs are compressed to the point of complete compression and held for a period of time.

"Scragging is the English term for “set removal”. I personally like using scragging because it is more fun to say. Scragging or set removal is a process where the spring is pressed to its solid height. This procedure is not necessary for every spring. It is used mostly on springs that are overstressed at solid or at a required deflection. Once the spring is taken to solid, it will be able to operate at a higher load capacity without over-stressing."

This is an excerpt from an engineering article on coil springs. The article goes on to state that "set removal" or "scragging" is key to the automotive and most vehicular industries to ensure that ride height remains consistent throughout the service life of the vehicle.

As for finding this information from a particular manufacturer, some will actually list it as a part of their manufacturing process, others you may have to give them a call and ask if it is part of their process or if the springs they "buy and resell under their own product name" are manufactured using this process.
Oh ok, i understand. I never knew they did that but it does make sense when you think about it. When i am ready to order all this stuff i will give RC a call and see if they can give me the info i want. Thanks GS
 
  #28  
Old 07-15-2012, 04:26 PM
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Alright folks, I can finally say I officially have a lifted baddass Bronco!

Total of 13hours of work,(some may say wow your slow, but this was the first time doing this), Surprising no one was hurt to bad, little blood from the knuckles but not to bad at all... I will say I am very very very shocked in how much lift I got out of this, It looks cool even on stock tires but I got a good deal on new 31"s that ill use for now....

Only thing now is that I ended up stripping a wheel stud and snapping another Of course right when you finish right lol, oh well thatll be another project this week. Anyways heres some pics. I ended up having an old coil spring that had a large piece snapped and was wedged in the top, so this new suspension was much needed.


So here we go, going topless with the new lift. Rough Country 2.5" suspension lift. I will say pics dont do justice it looks much larger in person.


unbolted and punched out the rivets of the bracket



Heres the broken piece from the old coil





New pivot arm bracket installed and bolted up



Drilling out the holes to 1/2" for the new bolts



Front end torn apart, pivot arm brackets done and ready for coils and shocks


Front end complete rear end is next, Unfortunately I didnt take pics of the block install, this was the quickest process so it went so fast


Old and new




Tightening up the brake caliper


 
  #29  
Old 07-16-2012, 12:24 AM
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Very nice, have you test driven it? How does it ride? I hope to do a 4" Rough country lift soon and replace the rough country coils with some nice Deaver superflex for the ride quality and the health of the truck. With stiffer springs it can wear out body bolts and stuff from the jarring bumps. Plus i have heard great things about Deavers. Anyways, with 35's I think 4"s would do well. I am just worried about all the linkages i will have to re-do. I feel like the track bar will need to be replaced with an adjustable one or something. Plus i think i will need drop brackets for the radius arms along with new ones since one is bent. And whatever else i need. I have never done a lift so i figure it will take longer than 13 hours for me and i won't be able to do it in our garage cause as it sits my truck barely fits. It will have to be on a hill in the gravel..
 
  #30  
Old 07-16-2012, 09:55 AM
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I have and I will tell you it def needs an alignment lol. Unfortunately I gotta replace 2 wheel studs so I dont have the truck right now and im hoping the alignment wont hurt my wallet to much *Knock on wood*

It ride very nice compared to the old suspension. And I love how I have to actually jump up into it now lol
 

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